Poly white thats not shiny?

[Prosperi-Tees]

The ones I have used have had a good gloss to them. Any that don't? Also I am going to be printing the new 100% poly Gildans (white on asstd colors), any experience with those?

[papinc]

No experience with those particular shirts...but I really like the Wilflex Top Score line of poly inks. Seems to have a nicer matte finish than other poly inks.

[Rockers]

The Wilflex Performance White is ace and then we have here a japanese ink brand, ColorMax, their white is pretty matte and opaque.

[Binkspot]

Top score does a nice job

[dirkdiggler]

Performance White

[Homer]

  I am assuming you are talking about the gildan poly shirts that "feel" like cotton -we ran a few jobs of them and not one single person liked them that got one...they feel really....weird....

you can always heat press them after and knock the shine out.

[Prosperi-Tees]

I lagged on this so it looks like I am going to use Rutland Super Poly. What do you guys think? 110 mesh and try a one hit (going on black red and blue 100% poly jersey shirts, the t-shirt feeling type not the smooth drifit) or go with a 160 and PFP? They have a fairly heavy ink coverage on them.

[screenprintguy]

We use Rut Super Poly as well, Haven't experienced any sheen in about 20 gals of use so far.

[alan802]

If you don't achieve the one hit you want will you pfp that 110 or will you then burn another screen with a 160 and PFP?  We haven't printed these yet with white ink so I don' t know their ability to hold a good ink deposit but if you're confident then do the 110.  The 160 PFP will put down about 25% more ink than the 110 with one stroke and the typical 110/81 PFP is bordering on too thick of an ink deposit, ESPECIALLY with the amount of puff in the rutland super poly.

[Inkworks]

The Gildan 100% Poly shirts fuzz up through the print like crazy, choose an ink with good fibre matt-down. Gloss likely won't be too much of a problem unless you put on a supper thick coat of ink or post-press/roller them.

[Prosperi-Tees]

If you don't achieve the one hit you want will you pfp that 110 or will you then burn another screen with a 160 and PFP?  We haven't printed these yet with white ink so I don' t know their ability to hold a good ink deposit but if you're confident then do the 110.  The 160 PFP will put down about 25% more ink than the 110 with one stroke and the typical 110/81 PFP is bordering on too thick of an ink deposit, ESPECIALLY with the amount of puff in the rutland super poly.

The puff is what I am worried about. If the 110 doesn't cut it and I would have to PFP that would be awful. So I think to be safe the 160 is the way to go and PFP with that.

[balloonguy]

Use a halftoned underbase. That always works for me.

[Inkworks]

Yeah I'd go with a 160 or even 180S. Good athletic ink should be no problem blocking dye migration on the shirts, so 110 P.F.P. sounds like major overkill on such a light fabric.

Watch for the fibrilation, or whatever it's called.

Also beware poly inks using Hydrogen Peroxide as a bleaching agent. Got very burnt by ghosting and poor migration blocking last year. A little puff isn't all that bad compared to risking a problem.

[alan802]

Would anyone say that those shirts print anything like the sport tek ST700, 95 poly 5 spandex fuzzballs? I told the sales staff to stop selling them cause they are so terrible to print on and if the new 100% poly gildans are anywhere close to the ST I want to avoid them as well.

[Prosperi-Tees]

The Gildan 100% Poly shirts fuzz up through the print like crazy, choose an ink with good fibre matt-down. Gloss likely won't be too much of a problem unless you put on a supper thick coat of ink or post-press/roller them.

This is exactly what happened, fuzzness. Im thinking I should drop down to a 130 or 110