Newman Roller Master not making a flat screen.

[Frog]

Do these things not come with an owner's manual and complete instructions?

[jsheridan]

who needs those when you can just ask some random person on the internet how they do it..

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

when I say new i should have clarified it is in fact used BUT barely touched...bought it from a guy whos company bought it but never got around to using it due to lack of time to show his employees how to use it.....it is in pristine condition and a newer L2 model.....it qualifies as being labeled brand new due hardly being touched so I i do not think the unleveling of the frames will be from too much use.

I will try everyone's suggestion after work today.

[ebscreen]

Armchair engineer here, but wouldn't a fourth clamp, stationary even, negate all of this magic dancing?

We occasionally fight with flat frames. If you're not careful about just tightening on the first round, and torqueing
on the next, and also being sure that you aren't lifting the frame in any way while torqueing, you can get an unlevel frame.
You kind of have to take out any "slack" on the first round.

But yeah, fourth clamp.

[BorisB]

It's always best to snug the bolts first then go back around and torque them.

This helped us having non flat frames. We go round in two rounds as well.

Boris

[Admiral]

who needs those when you can just ask some random person on the internet how they do it..

Funny that you mentioned this, the videos say and show clockwise around the table not CCW like your last post.  Starting at the bolt I mentioned too I believe.

We also do a snug then a tighten round.  Our frames almost never have non flat issues after being tightened, and if they do it's minor and can be fixed by applying pressure to opposite corners of the frame when the corner with the bounce from the table is elevated.

There are a lot of videos on youtube of how to properly use it that I used when we initially got the table and frames in.  Sure was nice starting with all the right equipment and not having to bother with the big magnesium wrench.

3 part video series starts here:

Using the Newman Roller Master - Part 1

I've talked to George at trade shows about it and corner softening too...

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

I watched all of the videos multiple times even before i landed a roller master.

[alan802]

I know Stretch says to do clockwise starting at a specific bolt, the one on the short roller in the corner with two wrenches then moving clockwise.  We have racked frames from time to time and it always happened when we were using very high tension mesh, 40+ newtons.  It happens every 5 or so screens now.

[jsheridan]

George and I share the same zip code so next time we meet up for a beer around the corner, I'll bring up the CW or CCW direction.

I've been going CCW as long as I can remember, maybe i'm doing it wrong.

[gtmfg]

When George was in our shop a few months ago he showed us tightening in a clockwise direction, first time just to snug, the 2nd time round to torque, holding the frame in strategic spots to add extra leverage without pulling the frame.  I struggled with our table for over a year. Then George came in turned the air inlet valve wide open and from then on I question my IQ

[screenxpress]

I'm going to 'assume' the roller master table has elevated pads for the corners to sit on sit before hooking up the cable devices.

I don't know if you want to drill holes, but you could install 4 toggle clamps to keep the frame flattened down tightly after stretching to tighten the bolts.

http://www.rockler.com/bessey-auto-adjust-toggle-clamp-hold-down?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=CLfYrerb1LwCFUcV7Aod5lAA-Q

Similar to my cheesy DIY manual setup, but I don't get warped frames after tightening -

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

I think i figured out what the problem is....check out the pic....it is of the corner that does not have a clamp socket....the corner of the frame is not resting 100% on the leveling pads of the table...wouldnt this be the reason im not getting a flat frame? Seems to me the entire frame corner should be resting on on the pad, correct?....If this is in fact the case, what happens when i unscrew it?...Can it be repositioned?....arent the pads factory calibrated to the table to produce a flat frame? And yes, the frame is in exact position on the table.

[ebscreen]

Level your table first.

That pad has six screws, three lock it into position (the larger ones) and three to raise or lower it.

After you get it perfect in all directions (make sure your frame is tight on the other three non-adjustable stops) lock it down.

Double check your work with a frame tested for flatness on your exposure unit.

Stretch another screen and make sure to go around twice when you tighten, just snug on the first round.



But riddle me this. If you look at the other frame stops, is your frame resting on the corners themselves or the tubes?

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

I always do a snug first then torque...and all other frame corners are resting completely on a leveling pad...and ONLY the frame corners......and anyway the frame corners are slightly thicker than than the rollers so even if some roller went over a pad it wouldn't touch it.......he only corner not 100% on a pad is the one corner without a clamp.

[Mark @ Hurricane Printing]

This was supposed to be the second pic in the above post....side shot of roller over the pad ...may not be able to see the slight gap between the roller and the pad but its there...the roller will never touch a pad being that is is ever so slightly thinner than the frame corners.