CCI D-White Cracking in garment "channels/grooves"

[TCT]

The one thing i'd like to find out how to fix is how to get rid on lint! it always messes up our big blocky prints.

Have you tried a "lint screen"? A screen with pallet tape backwards so sticky side touches the shirt. Put that in head 1, helps a LOT!

[ericheartsu]

The one thing i'd like to find out how to fix is how to get rid on lint! it always messes up our big blocky prints.

Have you tried a "lint screen"? A screen with pallet tape backwards so sticky side touches the shirt. Put that in head 1, helps a LOT!

do it all the time, still on some of these shirts....it doesn't grab it all! also sorry to hijack the thread!

[TCT]

The one thing i'd like to find out how to fix is how to get rid on lint! it always messes up our big blocky prints.

Have you tried a "lint screen"? A screen with pallet tape backwards so sticky side touches the shirt. Put that in head 1, helps a LOT!

do it all the time, still on some of these shirts....it doesn't grab it all! also sorry to hijack the thread!

Do you print the lint screen, or is it in contact with the shirt?

We have individual off contact, so we just set head 1 to "on contact" it sometimes -1 to really pick up the stubborn ones.

Our other press without individual off contact, we would use a roller squeegee from Action. Or you can fill the screen with softhand extender and run a normal squeegee with minimal pressure...

[ZooCity]

Runny DC white is the way to go.  For a high opacity DC White we quit using so much water (up to 6% max now, less is typical), quit using D-Base as an additive and started using penetrant (retarder) and softener (silicone dispersion) at lower %ages to get better flow out of the D-White without dropping opacity. 

D-White is great ink but it's not ready for print out of the bucket, not by a long shot, and running it as it is in the gallon will result in too much on top, not enough driven in.  For comparison, if you've ever used Magna Super White, it has just about the ideal DC White viscosity right out of the bucket in my opinion. It didn't print as bright as the D-White does for us so we don't run it for HO Whites but just saying for comparison.

That said, white pigment is white pigment.  Even driven far into the fabric and super saturated the hand is going to be much better after first washing and some amount of cracking will be evident before that initial laundering, at least for the brightest whites.  Did you say this was on a G5000?  The wales are wider on those compared to some other fabrics so that's going to come into play too.  Wash test and see what's shakin'.  Good luck.

Oh and lint screen, we run in head one, typically on DC runs where the print isn't very visible, like straight clear D-Base, etc. and we don't use squeegee pressure or a roller, just on contact.  Platen tape on the back, change as needed and spritz with mist tack as needed.  Don't over spritz and get the greaser screen tackier than yer platen! 

I think someone could pretty easily develop (and sell for a reasonable cost) an in head attachment that loads in like a squeegee or flood and has a bank of those clothes shaver type devices with a vacuum.  That'd solve the problem for sure and if yer going to give up a head for this anyway, why not go all the way right?  Action?

[TCT]

I think someone could pretty easily develop (and sell for a reasonable cost) an in head attachment that loads in like a squeegee or flood and has a bank of those clothes shaver type devices with a vacuum.  That'd solve the problem for sure and if yer going to give up a head for this anyway, why not go all the way right?  Action?

S.Roque has one. I am not so sure if it works on a non S.Roque press, but I could ask them if you want.

[ZooCity]

Rad.  No I doubt it would fit on a Gauntlet but that's a solid thing to offer.

[screenprintguy]

"Mikes back in the house!  Welcome back Mike!  You always give good advice."----------Thanks Jason, kinda hard to stay away with so many good people around here!!!! Congrats on that killer new machine you got! I was thinking about it late last night while my wife and I were stuck here printing hoodies till 12am by ourselves slow as a dog on our current set up thinking, man, if we just had more colors, more speed. Then the wife says, yeah dude, and the money to pay for it, lol hahahaha, in good time, it's coming soon though!!!


"Mike you should try a smiling jack squeegee. That plus d-white on a 156, comes out awesome.

The one thing i'd like to find out how to fix is how to get rid on lint! it always messes up our big blocky prints."---------------I should try those, Alan says they are pretty sweet squeegee's. Anything that helps pull off a nice print and beat those dam lint balls. Gotta hate the old lint ball that shows it's ugly self after cure. Tooth pic's come out and then the discharge dot dance happens lol.



CCLAUD, another thing I forgot to mention, and I know some guys have a different way of pulling off the extra penetration, but, we developed a habbit of using 2% FixerEn from Matsui added to our mixes, "helps fix the pigment for longer lasting color", and 2% PrintGen from Matsui, helps keep drying build up on the wet on wet prints, as well as another way to help penetrate deep in the fabric. CCI says we don't need to do it, but I think, if it's pulling off with success and no head aches, we keep it the same for now. We've used those two additives, with CCI discharge inks, of course Matsui which we no longer use, Magna, and Sericol, works with all of them, no bad affects at all. I did get an ear full last week about the new Wilflex Hydra series, supposed to be very awesome, very good stuff. A place close to us that is 100% waterbased printing will be doing extensive in the field testing with the hydra series, so I'll wait on them for feedback and pass it along. Also going to finally have a chance to do some discharge UB with softhand plastisol finish testing next week with the Simplexity Discharge base from Spot color supply. I've had it sitting on the dryer for a few months now and hadn't had a chance to use it. Put  a lil dab on a shirt Friday and still just as activated as it was when it first showed up. Honestly, when my Wiflex rep saw it and how it didn't take activator, and how it discharged, he totally freaked out lol. I'll report on that too!!

[sweetts]

First time I had the same issues, I actually thinned it with base and stirred the crap out of it, it looked much better also don't put it on too thick


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