Dehazer/Degreaser...what do you like?

[mimosatexas]

I have used the ICC 858 for as long as I can remember, & always seem to be safe & gentle, we love this stuff & the smell is nice as well. I have not had the problems with glue do to this stuff & we let it sit for a few minutes. However I think any dehazer can eat at the glue & depending on the glue I can see this being a problem.

Murphy37

I agree, we used to use 701 for a long time, then switched to KorChem Pro clean, relabeled by SPA as stain remover/degreaser, it was about 80 bucks per 5er less and a lot stronger than 701. But now trying this cherry smelling 858, using it the way it was demo'd it's even better at removing stains, not to mention it's degreasing ability is awesome. I added a little bit of water to it to loosen it up as the rep said that water is it's friend, actually makes it work better, he was correct. We use Beenie Doo as our de-inker which leaves lots of oily residue, this 858 then took care of all that greasy residue, it's defiantly going to be our new go to. I would suggest getting a sample, and making sure to use it the way they tell you too. I had some screens that had stains from a few jobs back still in the mesh under a new stain, the 858 took those out too, so I'm not sure how anyone trying it says that it's not good at removing stains, because the sample we go was super awesome.

unless they changed the formula in the last year, i have seen really poor results from it.  if I take a screen with a blue plastisol haze and scrub half with this 858 and half with 701, the 858 doesnt look like it did anything and the 701 shows no haze.  Both degrease, and for the most part the next stencil is fine on both, but the haze is still there with the 858 and I have had breakdowns on discharge screens when I used it as my primary dehaze/degrease, but have yet to have a screen fail since switching to 701 post tank.  the 858 does smell nice though.

shrug...

[Evo]

Many factors contribute to ink stains/haze/ghosting. Ink, heat, friction, age, among many other things all contribute to it.

Not all shops share the same mesh, presses, inks, emulsions, procedures, techniques, etc. What works perfectly in one shop may be useless in another.

Which makes some of this even more frustrating, because often you have to try a sample of 20 different versions of a particular product to find out what works, and hope it's available long term, and that they don't mess with the formula.


That said, we currently use:

Rutland plastisols. Mainly the M3 mixing formulas, some Color Booster, occasional discharge.

Ulano QTX and QT Discharge emulsions.

Easiway 842 press wash. (only press wash I've found so far that allows tape to stick afterwards and doesn't smell like cancer)

Easiway Easistrip Supra in the dip tank, 5:1 dilution. I'll drain the tank once a month and remove the sludge, and re-fill with the same solution strained through a 160 screen. Slight refresh with water and chemical. Full change out every 3-4 months.

Easiway 701 for dehaze/degrease immediately after the tank reclaim.

Easiway Screen Perfect for any mesh counts 230 above, (I like halftone screens 1000% spotless) or any brand new mesh.

Sprayway 957 screen opener (I hate it and avoid it, the press ops seem to love it but I guess everyone likes to party in different ways)

Sprayway 032 WB screen opener

[ABuffington]

Not using a commercial degreaser is like not using soap to wash your dishes.  There will be contaminants left on the screen/dishes you can't see.  The purpose of degreaser goes beyond cleaning the mesh, it acts as a pre treatment for the emulsion to flow properly and bond to a clean thread so those halftones stay put.  Degreaser sure helps the stencil making process go better.  When I get the call, 'your emulsion is falling off the screen'  the answer is usually expose it better or degrease better.  Shortcuts generally take you the long way to non stop production, which is the best money maker in your business.  Eliminating inexpensive must have products may save you pennies and cost you dollars in press downtime, rejects, or charge backs in the long run. If I hit the downhill point of a print run right after set up with mesh that registers perfectly, emulsion that holds excellent resolution and doesn't breakdown, how does messing with that system improve upon it?  I am willing to sample and prove it and advise anyone who wants to see how to always make a perfect screen. Shoot me an email with contact info and get a sample of the real deal and an evaluation of your system.  abuffington@murakamiscreen.com

Al
Murakami Screen

[screenprintguy]

cci pink stuff, and better yet, ICC 858 for us. I know this thread started a little back, but we have had more time to blow through a few gals of CCI pink stuff, and ICC 858. both are working better for us than 701 or Korchem, but I think the winner for me would be the ICC 858. Fast easy, very strong, zero grease left behind, and taking stains out like a champ.

[ericheartsu]

Pink stuff is good, but we've always found it a pain to put on!

I like the CCI neutralyze

[Printficient]

For a straight degreaser Xenon has one that is $11 per gallon and can be diluted 4 to 1.

[Homer]

just opened a 5'r of CCI liquid renuit, stuff smells like chicken piss....but it works better than enviro-haze...so that's a plus.

ICC smells like cherries huh? my local rep is always pushing ICC stuff on me but it reminds me of Xenon products, ya know -made in a bath tub.

[Printficient]

just opened a 5'r of CCI liquid renuit, stuff smells like chicken piss....but it works better than enviro-haze...so that's a plus.

ICC smells like cherries huh? my local rep is always pushing ICC stuff on me but it reminds me of Xenon products, ya know -made in a bath tub.

Really..... I take great pains in the tub using my stirrer to mix everything just so...

[jvanick]

We've been using the Xenon degreaser here now for 6 months or so.. 99.9% of the screens are perfect every time... I'm pretty sure the .1% times that we have a pinhole are from me not getting all the ink out after I've had a few too many pints of beer while reclaiming.

before we started degreasing I had problems all over the place... pinholes, fisheyes, etc.

[screenprintguy]

just opened a 5'r of CCI liquid renuit, stuff smells like chicken piss....but it works better than enviro-haze...so that's a plus.

ICC smells like cherries huh? my local rep is always pushing ICC stuff on me but it reminds me of Xenon products, ya know -made in a bath tub.

It does smell nice, but they do have a website, not a ton of info on it, but at least they have one.


What I do like about the 858 or the pinkstuff pastes is that it's easier to control where it goes. My screen guy is moving faster with it vs spray products, using less and actually doing cleaner screens. Before even using 701, or the Korchem, we would still have to spray a final degrease using either franmar or cci neutralize, which wastes more time. Now it's a simple blow out after the dip tank, scrub with a blob of the cherry stuff front and back, go to another screen, go back to that first one spray it out and they are nice. The new screen guy we have we have had to get him to focus on the final rinse to make sure he doesn't leave any, "pepper" dots in the mesh, but hes coming along nice. I like the 858 personally, and the final screens are nice from it.

[abchung]

I have been trying to solve my hazing problems for over a year after I started simulated process.
I have tried AutoHaze and it rips right through my S-mesh like a sharp knife.

I came across this article last night and hope it will help some people out. I will look for a dehazer that will eat away the ink and NOT the mesh.

http://www.screenweb.com/content/the-screen-cleaning-boxing-ring?page=0%2C0#.U4GvbC-RIaU

[StuJohnston]

I have been trying to solve my hazing problems for over a year after I started simulated process.
I have tried AutoHaze and it rips right through my S-mesh like a sharp knife.

I came across this article last night and hope it will help some people out. I will look for a dehazer that will eat away the ink and NOT the mesh.

http://www.screenweb.com/content/the-screen-cleaning-boxing-ring?page=0%2C0#.U4GvbC-RIaU

Nice article. I can relate, this happened to me the other day,

[Printficient]

Stu, Where is your pressure washer?

[StuJohnston]

That's just a screenshot from the article, I don't use stapled screens either lol. Seriously, even pressure washing can't take it out. It was a sample bottle of ink wash that doesn't go well with non solvent specific emulsion apparently. My screen also shows the wipe marks from the solvent even.

[Frog]

I have been trying to solve my hazing problems for over a year after I started simulated process.
I have tried AutoHaze and it rips right through my S-mesh like a sharp knife.

I came across this article last night and hope it will help some people out. I will look for a dehazer that will eat away the ink and NOT the mesh.

http://www.screenweb.com/content/the-screen-cleaning-boxing-ring?page=0%2C0#.U4GvbC-RIaU

Just a note, I'm a convert from Autohaze to Liquid Re-Nuit.
In fact, for years, whenever a chem rep made contact with me, I told them that I was looking for a haze remover replacement.
Liquid Re-Nuit was the first I found that did the trick for me. It had "oomph" without the intense fear of destroying mesh and flesh.