Author Topic: White Base on Manual Press  (Read 3341 times)

Offline JackThrasher

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White Base on Manual Press
« on: January 02, 2014, 03:48:42 PM »
Hello,
I've been having trouble getting a good solid white base coat of Plastisol. Any suggestions or tips would be great... I was going to try using reducer to thin out the ink a bit, or is there any other methods I could use?
Jack Thrasher
Owner Operator, The Original Whiskey Gun Clothing
https://www.facebook.com/TheOriginalWhiskeyGun


Offline alan802

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2014, 04:26:36 PM »
Mesh count?
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Offline Frog

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2014, 04:27:35 PM »
Alan beat me with my first question
First off, what mesh are you using? And, do you realize that you don't necessarily need (or even want) a really solid base.

Is your problem the ink clearing the screen? That's where reducer can help.
Also, is your ink cold? Do you have the same trouble in August?
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Offline Colin

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2014, 05:05:37 PM »
Also, all technical aspects aside, what white ink are you using?

Not all whites are manual printer friendly :)
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Offline screenxpress

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2014, 01:16:44 AM »
do you realize that you don't necessarily need (or even want) a really solid base.

Amen to that.  My bases are always halftones just to handle opacity on dark shirts.  Solid base will almost certainly end up the proverbial 'bullet-proof' print, IMHO
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Offline dlac

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2014, 10:35:20 AM »
I am with the above.. hardly ever have used solid white for underbase, unless of course printing S.W.A.T. on bullet proof vests.. we are not trying to make it look like printed on white.. we just don't want the black shirt to kill all the colors.. I think?
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Offline tonypep

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2014, 10:51:37 AM »
DC/UB. But you knew I was going to say that. A properly trained/skilled manual printer will find this to be easier and faster. Again not for most nices however. Finished print will exhibit superior hand with less effort.

Offline Gilligan

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2014, 10:59:32 AM »
Curious what kind of percentage halftone and LPI are you guys doing when you do a HT base for a solid spot color on top?

Offline Frog

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2014, 12:28:26 PM »
Curious what kind of percentage halftone and LPI are you guys doing when you do a HT base for a solid spot color on top?

I have no specific answer, as with my mostly simple designs,  I have moved away from halftoned underbases in favor of just a translucent solid base, but those who are sophisticated with their dots actually adjust each section (object) by what color is going on top.
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Offline Sbrem

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2014, 03:15:05 PM »
Curious what kind of percentage halftone and LPI are you guys doing when you do a HT base for a solid spot color on top?

Let's say you have Red square; if you convert the Red square to grayscale, the gray you get is a percentage of black, and let's says it's 60%; make your white underlay the inverse, 40%. Another trick to try in Illustrator, is to make duplicate of the design to the side, convert it to grayscale and invert it, then move it back underneath the original, and in the original, mark everything to overprint. That works pretty well, but check it carefully, there may be a surprise in their somewhere.

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Offline Inkworks

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2014, 03:40:14 PM »
Curious what kind of percentage halftone and LPI are you guys doing when you do a HT base for a solid spot color on top?

Let's say you have Red square; if you convert the Red square to grayscale, the gray you get is a percentage of black, and let's says it's 60%; make your white underlay the inverse, 40%. Another trick to try in Illustrator, is to make duplicate of the design to the side, convert it to grayscale and invert it, then move it back underneath the original, and in the original, mark everything to overprint. That works pretty well, but check it carefully, there may be a surprise in their somewhere.

Steve

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Offline JackThrasher

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2014, 06:22:28 PM »
First off thanks for all the replys.
I am generally using 160 mesh not really any halftones, mostly distressed textures, and large solid white areas. Most of the designs I am doing for my clothing line are basic and classic white on black... that's why I ask for solid white tips.

Not sure about temprature because I started using the manual when the weather cooled down (recent purchase).

As for ink I am using Rutland M3 white and I stir it till I can't feel my arm.
Jack Thrasher
Owner Operator, The Original Whiskey Gun Clothing
https://www.facebook.com/TheOriginalWhiskeyGun

Offline screenxpress

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #12 on: January 03, 2014, 07:11:22 PM »
As for ink I am using Rutland M3 white and I stir it till I can't feel my arm.

Just drop by a welding store and pick up a (not too heavy) uncoated brazing rod and bend it in the shape of a triangle with a long leg and stick it in your drill.  It's a whole lot easier on the body.

I get 2 or 3 out of those out of a rod.  Just clean off with ink wash and set aside for next time.  Coat hangers won't hold up, brazing rods will.
« Last Edit: January 03, 2014, 07:39:52 PM by screenxpress »
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Offline brandon

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2014, 06:14:19 PM »
DC/UB. But you knew I was going to say that. A properly trained/skilled manual printer will find this to be easier and faster. Again not for most nices however. Finished print will exhibit superior hand with less effort.

Totally agree

Offline JackThrasher

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Re: White Base on Manual Press
« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2014, 10:50:12 AM »
"Just drop by a welding store and pick up a (not too heavy) uncoated brazing rod and bend it in the shape of a triangle with a long leg and stick it in your drill.  It's a whole lot easier on the body.

I get 2 or 3 out of those out of a rod.  Just clean off with ink wash and set aside for next time.  Coat hangers won't hold up, brazing rods will."

Thanks I will make some of these asap.
Jack Thrasher
Owner Operator, The Original Whiskey Gun Clothing
https://www.facebook.com/TheOriginalWhiskeyGun