1st time Plasti-charge help

[recovery_shirts]

eb- thanks for all that. i try to always buy top of the line everything, but the emulsion i was looking at was 50% higher. thought maybe someone had figured it out w/a less expensive one.. think i might just try using a hardener w/my current emulsion.

pierre- thank you thank you.. oh and thanks.

tony- i must have misread your inflection in that message, i apologize for snapping. all feedback welcome..

[ebscreen]

No problem.

What kinda tiny dryer we workin' with here? You would be surprised what you can do with discharge
and a small electric dryer. Ain't I deal, but assuming you are printing manually, it shouldn't slow you down
too much.

[recovery_shirts]

It's an old-ass Lancer 6 foot rig. 110 connection. I pretty much have to have it at the highest heat, and lowest belt speed, to dry white plastisol. When I run discharge through, I have to finish it off w/a heat gun..

[Screened Gear]

Plasticharge and red ink. The shirt that Pierre is talking about was printed with flag red from union. Out of unions reds its the only red with non reactive red pigments. The other reds will orange. Not sure on other ink brands but I heard wilflex reds work.

P-charge has its uses like everything. Your dryer will be too small for p- charge also.  The heat and chamber needs are similar to dc. You may have to run it through twice.

[tonypep]

And I apologize for coming across as brash sometimes. No excuse but I am experiencing extreme back pain in my sciatic nerve and it makes me grumpy at times. My point about not even trying was not referring to plasticharge but trying to combine discharge wb with plastisol.That simply wont work. Oil and water. I still contend however that going from discharge to plastisol is a step backwords however for reasons mentioned above. Looks like we saved this thread after all.
best tp

[mk162]

I've used both, you can get a good red, but I would say the colors are harder to achieve overall.  The key is to use super opacity colors and use more of that than base, with a little less discharge agent.

But, straight discharge is better.  Much better.

[tonypep]

A little history here. The hybrid plasticharge inks were aimed at printers who were hesitant at mixing and matching discharge colors. At the time they were developed there were no formulas available from the manufacturers. Although they are not always accurate for many reasons they now are available from most ink companies.
The primary reason for the weaker colors is that you are diluting the plastisol color by as much as 50%. The straight discharge inks are not only softer and more vibrant, they exhibit better edge definition and halftone resolution where the dots "melt" together when steamed off in the dryer. Seamless tone to tone in many cases.

[ScreenFoo]

I would mention, having used Unions plastisol discharge system, the extra stock, and investment in another color kitchen is the big reason we use it.  As others have mentioned before, one way of getting over the saturation issues is getting toner or concentrates.  I remember Tom posting a pretty killer red that was plasticharge.

That being said, I'd prefer to do WB if we were equipped to do so, and had a decent amount of customer demand.

[tonypep]

BTW just tested Rutlands white discharger. Meh...not so good. It's the old Pavonine product. They are coming by Friday to do some side by side testing on different garments. They are working on a better version but it's not ready for prime time just yet.

[recovery_shirts]

jon- thanks for the info on the Flag Red..

tony- no worries, and hope ur back gets to feeling better. and thanks a bunch for all the other info. when i expand my shop and get a gas powered dryer, i will definitely be asking more WB discharge questions.

foo- thanks, right there with ya..