Multicolor print registration

[BorisB]

 i wouldn't suggest using flash. Use dryer, run paper through before printing at 130C & keep it in polybag during printing.  Test dryer for settings. Plastisol Ink film should be a bit tacky, but not leave marks on finger or paper.
 
Waterbased inks are getting more used for transfers. You can care less about curing, but need to finish transfer with adhesive. And most don't print as nicely as plastisols do.

[Im-Magic]

We bought a Vacuum table, but most of what we do is tight rego and due to shrinkage, we were never able to register properly again. We have gone back to using adhesive to hold the paper and flashing each colour. If someone can tell me how to use a vacuum table and solve the shrinkage problem then I would be eternaly grateful.

[Frog]

We bought a Vacuum table, but most of what we do is tight rego and due to shrinkage, we were never able to register properly again. We have gone back to using adhesive to hold the paper and flashing each colour. If someone can tell me how to use a vacuum table and solve the shrinkage problem then I would be eternaly grateful.

Have you tried pre-shrinking the paper like Bauman mentioned a few posts back?

[starchild]

i wouldn't suggest using flash. Use dryer, run paper through before printing at 130C & keep it in polybag during printing.  Test dryer for settings. Plastisol Ink film should be a bit tacky, but not leave marks on finger or paper.
 
Waterbased inks are getting more used for transfers. You can care less about curing, but need to finish transfer with adhesive. And most don't print as nicely as plastisols do.

I was thinking of putting a tray in my dri-vault with the heat on and leaving the bulk of paper in there after preshrinking (what the heck is a hot box anyway?), only taking a few out at a time until the run is completed. I am going to consider the type of papers more closely however because from what I understand it's not just the brand or type (cold/hot/split) but also the tree type (long or short grain) and structure (direction of the grain) the makes or breaks a good registration.

Im-Magic is saying that using a flash is possible, Jason from Guru Ink who did the heat transfer vid on youtube also mentioned using the flash for multiple colors.

Well trial and error will sought this all out right?

[ZooCity]

We bought a Vacuum table, but most of what we do is tight rego and due to shrinkage, we were never able to register properly again. We have gone back to using adhesive to hold the paper and flashing each colour. If someone can tell me how to use a vacuum table and solve the shrinkage problem then I would be eternaly grateful.

Same here more or less.  We do preheat and either keep sheets warm or move fast on multicolor transfers printed with the clamshell.  I've had better success flashing on the manual with multi color, smashing success in fact.  Registration is deadly accurate. 

I have another thread on finding a cold peel paper that does not distort like crazy, but I don't think it exists, paper just doesn't like those temps.  I'm going to get serious on it and see if something is out there though.
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php/topic,5374.msg60125.html#msg60125

Starchild, that's the right idea. I always refer to this article to start out, good general overview:
http://www.unionink.com/articles/transfer.html

WB transfers seem totally feasible to me if they are high-solids wb inks.   And adding adhesive last ain't no big thing if it's the crystals, we do that to the backs of all our plastisol cap transfers or any going on a substrate that might fight adhesion.   If someone has a WB transfer ink out there that will cure at lower temp/prevent epic distortion of the paper, I'll be switching to it for transfers right quick. 

[Im-Magic]

We do run the paper through the dryer first and try to keep it warm but it still distorts. We do not have much choice when it comes to paper as I have only found two suppliers in Australia and they both sell the same paper.