Couple pictures of the shop

[GraphicDisorder]

Nobody is working?

Productive day here.  Stephanie just did a rush order of 150 hats being boxed now for shipping, I just did 50 metal hats (affixed metal logos).  Erik is banging out some art, and Shelly is doing 50 screens for Wed/Thurs/Fri's print jobs. 

[whitewater]

dude....nice shop

[JBLUE]

I will only say this... I'm still up in the air on what embroidery machine to get.

I was recently involved in a possible brand new 2 head SWF *gasp* but the details just didn't get worked out like I had hoped.

Happy, SWF, Tajima... hell, I ALMOST went look at some Aymani(sp) XT's that were for sell locally... almost.   As long as the price is right and it will sew out properly I don't care who put their label on it.

Not a good way to think there Gilligan. Buy it right once or spend double doing it right the second time.

[IntegrityShirts]

Wheres Musterd when you need him, oh never mind I will do it.

Dude I'm here.  My image link broke.  Didn't use the popcorn, figured girl fight was more appropriate lol

[Nation03]

Awesome shop.

Hey Brandt.. I just started using the same exposure unit. Do you mess with the exposure times for different mesh counts or do you generally use the same time for everything? I'm trying to get the most detail on our halftone work and sometimes I think I'm overexposing.

[GraphicDisorder]

Awesome shop.

Hey Brandt.. I just started using the same exposure unit. Do you mess with the exposure times for different mesh counts or do you generally use the same time for everything? I'm trying to get the most detail on our halftone work and sometimes I think I'm overexposing.

Thanks!

Same for all however I'm sure that's not the most correct, however we've had great results doing that. 

[Orion]

Nice shop Brandt! You guys put out some great looking screen/embroidery designs, kudos to you and the crew there.

Gilligan, get a Tajima.

Someone mentioned an exposure unit, and getting the best detail out of their halftones. There are many different exposure calculators available from different emulsion manufacturers. These are printed films that you affix to your screen and expose to calculate the best possible exposures for variables such as coating method, mesh counts, light source, etc... The problem I see with exposure calculators is that the dMax values of the provided films will not match the dMax value of your film. If your films are weaker (less opaque) than the test film, most of the data from the test is irrelevant. The test films will give you a roundabout figure or a starting point but the trick is to use your film, your own coating technique, and find where you are losing detail and or low percentage halftones vs. underexposure which results in scumming on the squeegee side of the screen and the loss of higher percentage halftones . Emulsion companies would serve us better by supplying us with digital files to output our own test films for more some really dialed in exposures and more accurate results.

[JBLUE]

Nice shop Brandt! You guys put out some great looking screen/embroidery designs, kudos to you and the crew there.

Gilligan, get a Tajima.

Someone mentioned an exposure unit, and getting the best detail out of their halftones. There are many different exposure calculators available from different emulsion manufacturers. These are printed films that you affix to your screen and expose to calculate the best possible exposures for variables such as coating method, mesh counts, light source, etc... The problem I see with exposure calculators is that the dMax values of the provided films will not match the dMax value of your film. If your films are weaker (less opaque) than the test film, most of the data from the test is irrelevant. The test films will give you a roundabout figure or a starting point but the trick is to use your film, your own coating technique, and find where you are losing detail and or low percentage halftones vs. underexposure which results in scumming on the squeegee side of the screen and the loss of higher percentage halftones . Emulsion companies would serve us better by supplying us with digital files to output our own test films for more some really dialed in exposures and more accurate results.

Great explanation. Kiwo was at the shop the other day and did some testing with us. They used their film done on an image setter. Big difference in exposure times using their film and what we use. My burn times were significantly higher than the sample films we tested with. Like you say its just a starting point. Sometimes not even in the ball park.

[Gilligan]

I've always agreed with this.  I don't see the need for an exposure calculator like they provide.  It's not apples to apples.

Problem with them giving us digital files (other than them spreading like wild fire and harder for them to "sell" them), is that what most of the calculators I have see are using neutral density filters at various percentages.  You can't print ND filters... you can only print percentages of 100% (if that makes any sense).

Thus leaving you with the ol' step wedge test really being the only way to do it "properly".

It would be nice if you could send them a sample of your films, they could test what 100% opaque was for you and then give you a "curve" to grade their films with.  If you get 95% opaque compared to their 100% then everything is off by 5% (total guess that it would work that linearly).  So then if you need 100 light units for proper exposure with their film then it would mean 95 light units with your films.

The problem comes in on the other side of the spectrum, 100% clear.  If their films aren't "water proof" and are mo' clear than yours then that raises another set of variables.  Bringing MORE to the table of test with your own films... but I would think the master mind mathematicians could figure out some sort of curve... maybe it's a pipe dream.

[IntegrityShirts]

I've always agreed with this.  I don't see the need for an exposure calculator like they provide.  It's not apples to apples.

Problem with them giving us digital files (other than them spreading like wild fire and harder for them to "sell" them), is that what most of the calculators I have see are using neutral density filters at various percentages.  You can't print ND filters... you can only print percentages of 100% (if that makes any sense).

Thus leaving you with the ol' step wedge test really being the only way to do it "properly".

It would be nice if you could send them a sample of your films, they could test what 100% opaque was for you and then give you a "curve" to grade their films with.  If you get 95% opaque compared to their 100% then everything is off by 5% (total guess that it would work that linearly).  So then if you need 100 light units for proper exposure with their film then it would mean 95 light units with your films.

The problem comes in on the other side of the spectrum, 100% clear.  If their films aren't "water proof" and are mo' clear than yours then that raises another set of variables.  Bringing MORE to the table of test with your own films... but I would think the master mind mathematicians could figure out some sort of curve... maybe it's a pipe dream.

Solution:

Company supplies same image set film test sheet, with extra neutral density filter piece and file to print/attach ND film to
.....
profit?

[mk162]

here's an idea, put a piece of the film you use down on top of the exposure calc.  That way it shoots through both.  The expo calc proabably has virtuall no UV block, where the WP films have a decent amount

[GraphicDisorder]

Nice shop Brandt! You guys put out some great looking screen/embroidery designs, kudos to you and the crew there.

Thank's! 

[inkman996]

here's an idea, put a piece of the film you use down on top of the exposure calc.  That way it shoots through both.  The expo calc proabably has virtuall no UV block, where the WP films have a decent amount

Damn I think you should tip of the week with that one!

[Gilligan]

here's an idea, put a piece of the film you use down on top of the exposure calc.  That way it shoots through both.  The expo calc proabably has virtuall no UV block, where the WP films have a decent amount

Good idea, just when I was about to right you off for your political views. j/k

[JBLUE]

here's an idea, put a piece of the film you use down on top of the exposure calc.  That way it shoots through both.  The expo calc proabably has virtuall no UV block, where the WP films have a decent amount

Yes then you throw them for a loop. I was going to do that but I had a very important meeting to go to so I could not spend anymore time with the guy. It is great emulsion and had no trouble holding an 85 lpi dot. Even under a 100 power loop the dots were as perfect as your going to get.