in a pinch on 100% poly

[mk162]

I've had safety green 50/50's turn my black ink green, so beware.

[JBLUE]

180-230 seems high for a basic underbase. I'd go 110-156. I print 100% poly almost every day. Just did navy on wednesday, came out great.

180 works great. Just ran 500 units of black with cyan and 021 orange. Your not fighting fibrilation so there is nothing to bury with a 110. Why make the print thicker than shirt? Earlier this week we ran 350 white poly's all on 305's. Came out almost as soft as dye sub.

[sportsshoppe]

180-230 seems high for a basic underbase. I'd go 110-156. I print 100% poly almost every day. Just did navy on wednesday, came out great.

my thoughts exactly... we do a bunch for baseball jerseys and have had no problems

[JBLUE]

180-230 seems high for a basic underbase. I'd go 110-156. I print 100% poly almost every day. Just did navy on wednesday, came out great.

my thoughts exactly... we do a bunch for baseball jerseys and have had no problems

Let me ask you this. Why are you using a 110? If you can get a better print using a higher mesh screen why wouldn't you?  Why not go after the thinnest deposit while still getting the same opacity?

[sportsshoppe]

I guess my experience with ball jerseys. I see my work last for quiet a while the way I have been doing it. They take a lot of punishment especially the catcher with his gear and all the sliding and such (baseball and softball). Not that your way is not the way to go but for as long as I have been printing I have been using 155 not so much 110 but if it is a white ink for the one color I would not have a problem using the 110. You ask why well it is ball jerseys not t-shirts I guess would be my answer. Its all I can come up with and if its not tore up why fix it?

[JBLUE]

I guess my experience with ball jerseys. I see my work last for quiet a while the way I have been doing it. They take a lot of punishment especially the catcher with his gear and all the sliding and such (baseball and softball). Not that your way is not the way to go but for as long as I have been printing I have been using 155 not so much 110 but if it is a white ink for the one color I would not have a problem using the 110. You ask why well it is ball jerseys not t-shirts I guess would be my answer. Its all I can come up with and if its not tore up why fix it?

Thats cool. I was just curious. Like you said it works for what your doing and at the end of the day thats all that really matters. We work with a lot of running events so the thinner the better for them. They still want opacity but they also want a minimal hand to the print.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Ok so I have another order going on navy poly. It is a white and silver metallic print. What is a good way to get a nice metallic print down?

[Nation03]

180-230 seems high for a basic underbase. I'd go 110-156. I print 100% poly almost every day. Just did navy on wednesday, came out great.

my thoughts exactly... we do a bunch for baseball jerseys and have had no problems

Let me ask you this. Why are you using a 110? If you can get a better print using a higher mesh screen why wouldn't you?  Why not go after the thinnest deposit while still getting the same opacity?

I know there is no issues with fibrillation, but you are fighting the dye migration. We use One Stroke poly white with 110 screens because it gives us practically zero dye migration. Yes, the deposit is heavy, but we're doing sports uniforms, not slim fit shirts for a clothing line or retail store. If we were just doing light color shirts, then yes, we would print through a higher mesh. It's been my experience that people complain more about discolored prints over heavy prints, in the team uniform biz, that is. Just my 2 cents. Over the years I've gotten pretty good at getting next to no dye migration on the worst type of red poly bleeders.

[Prosperi-Tees]

Just to update. The print came out really nice. 160 underbase with 2 soft strokes, flash and then 1 stroke on a 230 for the top color. I must say this was easier than printing on 100% cotton.