Coating Question

[alan802]

But, a one hit with that much open area is going to be tough.

Johnny Raincloud.

I have to agree with Alan. Another thing why did you use a 150 mesh? If the goal is to lay down a one hit you should use the lowest mesh you can and still hold the design. A 150 mesh with a 300 to 400 Micron stencil sounds "wrong". Don't get me wrong I am not beating you up. I do the wrong thing alot. I have printed with 305 mesh when I should have used a 123 because that is the only screen I had. I am always trying things that people say will never work. You know 50% of the time they are right. The other 50% I learn something. Have fun with your thick screen. My guess would be you will have to use alot of pressure to clear it. If you use too much pressure on a screen with that much open area you will not get the advantage of the thick stencil. You will be pushi

But, a one hit with that much open area is going to be tough.

Johnny Raincloud.

I have to agree with Alan. Another thing why did you use a 150 mesh? If the goal is to lay down a one hit you should use the lowest mesh you can and still hold the design. A 150 mesh with a 300 to 400 Micron stencil sounds "wrong". Don't get me wrong I am not beating you up. I do the wrong thing alot. I have printed with 305 mesh when I should have used a 123 because that is the only screen I had. I am always trying things that people say will never work. You know 50% of the time they are right. The other 50% I learn something. Have fun with your thick screen. My guess would be you will have to use alot of pressure to clear it. If you use too much pressure on a screen with that much open area you will not get the advantage of the thick stencil. You will be pushing the stencil into the shirt and your squeegee will close the gap of the screen and the shirt. What is that stencil like 500% EOM.

ng the stencil into the shirt and your squeegee will close the gap of the screen and the shirt. What is that stencil like 500% EOM.

That 150/48 actually looks like a standard 83 under a loupe and is easier to clear than your standard 110/81 mesh, it just doesn't have the thread thickness of a regular lower mesh count.  He should be able to print with very little pressure in the chopper cylinder, we use around 18-22psi on 150/48.  Set your print speed at 25 and go down from there until it clears completely.  Depending on the ink's characteristics, you might clear the screen at 20"/sec.   

Raincloud...out.

[ZooCity]

I think this particular piece of art would have been better served on a 135/48.  Same thread thickness as here but, holy jesus, does a 135 throw ink.  Tension may come into play though as the 135 S can't quite take as much as the 150 S in terms of n/cm. 

{Out of the three counts with 48 micron threads- 135, 150, 180 -the 135 is by far the most delicate.  It would appear there's 'strength in numbers' regarding tpi    and screen failure.}

And when I say tension may come into play I've noticed that you have got to be deadly accurate with your fill and stroke using the 135 S.  Too much pressure and you will indeed have a very self defeating thick stencil with tons of open area plowing uneven slabs of ink onto your garments in part of the image and laying it down just on top in other image areas.  I don't know how you all printing HD deal with those super skinny thread/low tpi screens with the sky high EOM.  I feel like you'd have to have a spit polished and fine tuned masterpiece of an auto press to get the repeatability needed and probably still have to deal with ink dilatentcy and other little rheological changes the whole way. 

Anyways I agree with 'ol cloudy here, probably going to have issues with the big open areas and need a p/f/p and that will likely be way too much ink unless you want a little mini HD look, which can be cool done right but maybe not so cool all over your chest while you play sports.