Neon puff print cracking

[Rockers]

So here is what happened.
Got an order for some Anvil tees with a 2 color print. White and a neon/fluorescent pink with puff.
First time round we printed that order the client send them back because the puff ink came off after the 1st wash. I have to admit due to a lack if time we had no chance to do a wash test before starting production.
Well we replaced the shirts. Did a wash test before the reprint and it looked like it was all good this time round. Today 4 weeks after we shipped the replacements to our client we get an email saying the print cracks before he has even washed the shirts. They were printed with Sericol plastisol fluorescent pink with Union Mixo-Puff. I'm kind of start wondering if there could generally be a problem with fluorescent inks and puff? Otherwise I can't really explain why this is happening especially as the wash test showed no problems. Unless it's normal that the puff cracks before it has been washed.

[mk162]

puff cracks, that is a large reason why people moved into HD prints.

usually they crack after several washings though.

[Colin]

It can crack yes.

First question:  Is the ink cracking on all the shirts?  Is your dryer very consistent with it's heat output?  Is there anyway that the heat could have dipped low enough to not fully cure the puff ink for a few shirts here and there?  Are ALL the customers shirts cracking?

Second question: Is it possible that you added a bit to much puff additive to the fluorescent ink?  By doing so you reduce even more it's stretch ability.  That coupled with the possibility of the first question could be your culprit.

There are always several things that can go wrong when mixing and curing puff inks.

What mesh count?  One pass?  p/f/p?  Was it printed on top of another ink or by itself?

As additional info:  If you really over add puff to an ink you will see the print crumble when you brush across it.  It's really weird :)

[tonypep]

An interesting note that I'm sure Colin would agree with is that there are open cell puffs (think of suede base) and closed cell puffs. When applied correctly closed cells are less prone to cracking. Many may not remember when both were used as underbases to selectively raise areas in a given graphic. Including flourescents. If anyone is interested on the application specifics I'll post later.

[Colin]

An interesting note that I'm sure Colin would agree with is that there are open cell puffs (think of suede base) and closed cell puffs. When applied correctly closed cells are less prone to cracking. Many may not remember when both were used as underbases to selectively raise areas in a given graphic. Including flourescents. If anyone is interested on the application specifics I'll post later.

Ahhh, memories.

I have designed and printed several shirts with a "second underbase"  that was a puff ink.  Made for some reallllly cool effects.  Made me chuckle when people would ask how I made 7 colors "puff".

[tonypep]

Thats right Colin this was practised by only a few in the know. A white UB is printed first, then the puff UB. Flashing is critical. Just enough to dry the puff without raising. The final puff happens in the dryer. The raised parts lighten up slighty in color. So savvy designers employed this technique, often using half tones and patterns in the puff base.
Could be one of those things that make a comeback