F Supacolor

[mooseman]

DonR
Got your samples they worked great test washing now.
One confusing point for me is the color squares on your samples . Are you printing CMYK , RGB or ?
mind that I am old and stupid about this process and had some CMYK issues with another source I have used.
Any light you can shed on my darkness will help.
mooseman

[DonR]

The color blocks on the samples are random colors. We have another sample that is several rows of color blocks that have the RGB values listed within each block. We will be sending this sample along with first orders. You can use it to help match colors.

We are still fine tuning the ICC profile that we use. Some current problem areas are: dark grays appear almost black and reds appear a little to orange. These problems will be fixed soon. In the meantime, if we see a problem we are manually making adjustments. Once we have the ICC profile where we want it, we will make a new color block sheet for everyone.

Since we are talking problems, one we are seeing a lot is very fine lines and small text. When creating your artwork please remember that we choke the white underbase by 2 to 3 pixels. Very thin lines and text will not be underbased correctly.

[Dottonedan]

Since we are talking problems, one we are seeing a lot is very fine lines and small text. When creating your artwork please remember that we choke the white underbase by 2 to 3 pixels. Very thin lines and text will not be underbased correctly.

For those sending in art files. A way to improve the underbases in these cases would be to create all art at a higher resolution (and for Don) to output the files at that same resolution. Typically 600 ppi is going to provide a tighter pixels that will enable you to underbase small and thin type (more so) than a 300ppi file. At 300, there is just not enough pixel to choke 2 pixels for a base and shift. At 600, the type is more well formed…and you have more pixel data to work with.

I do this for SP. works great.

[Sbrem]

As much as I would love to experiment with doing them ourselves, I simply don't have the time to work on it. I have some jobs that have been reorders from Supacolor, and I'll continue to use them for those. I've also been very happy with TPRNT's transfers, and being in Mass. they are only a day away. I missed them while they were down, but I already have my first job on the way, should arrive today (please, God).

Steve

[DonR]

Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels.

If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.

[inkman996]

Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels.

If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.

Got our order in today from you guys and the print looks great. Will be pressing them later on.

Side question is it possible to do halftone fades to shirt color, like shadows? Or will there have to be some kid=nd of white base under the dots?

[3Deep]

Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that 

[inkman996]

Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that 

I am assuming correctly that the base layer has to be printed under all colors n matter what? As in you cannot just print a fade with in one color direct to the film and press that on?

[Homer]

Mike I don't think so, but I'm been doing different things with our DTF to see what I can get, I think if you can do a grayscale then bitmap in color it might work, something like that 

I am assuming correctly that the base layer has to be printed under all colors n matter what? As in you cannot just print a fade with in one color direct to the film and press that on?

not unless you know what the hell you are doing....

[DonR]

We have done it with halftones. Do not use transparent colors, they do not work well with DTF. Some of the additional artwork services that we offer are knocking out the shirt color, creating the type of halftone you are talking about, and changing transparent colors to halftones. Knocking out black on a transfer going onto a black shirt works great to create a much softer feel. Halftones can also help with the feel of the shirt.

These service are not available on the website at this time. You can email designs to info@tprnt.com for these services. It takes a bit of trial and error get them right. Once we get what we think looks good, we would send a picture of the transfer printed on a shirt for you to approve.

You can do this work yourself before uploading the design but we will just print whatever you send. I have had good results with halftones between 45lpi and 55lpi. Do this at your own risk...

[Dottonedan]

Dan, Going to 600dpi does help some but cuts the choke in half from a 300dpi design. The choke hides registration issues that all of these printers have. The registration is a bit better on 600dpi design but not much. On 600dpi design, we sometime have to increase the choke to 3 or 4 pixels. If you are printing a design that is all white we do not choke the design at all.

That’s the beauty of doubling the pixels from 300 to 600 means that (when you do increase the choke from 2 pixels on 300ppi, to 3 pixels on 600ppi, then you have a cleaner, tighter choke with something to work with. I think if you’ve been having poor results at 600, on the choke, then you may not be accommodating the choke for the 600.  Like maybe using the same pixel number when you should be doubling it at most, but I use 3 pixels at 600ppi. 2 pixels at 300ppi.  I find 4 to be too much.


Choking a times Roman Font with serifs at 300ppi, doesn’t leave you anything. It leaves you with a chunk on the base at the tip of the serifs) and then a broken line on stem. At 600ppi, you have at least a complete line, and 1-2 pixels thicker than a 300ppi file.


This image below, is an example of the results.

[DonR]

Thanks Dan, that is a good example of how the higher resolution helps.