Halftone Underbase with solid print (plastisol)

[Gilligan]

So, I have to redo a shirt someone else has done in the past (Hi Tom ).

I've tried to print halftone bases in the past and wasn't pleased with the results.

Basically, I lose matte down and then the top print comes out fuzzy.

What am I doing wrong?  Super vague right?

FYI, I can usually get an amazing white print that I've been VERY happy with.  We use all S mesh, Joe's Synergy inks and Union Ultrasoft for top colors.

[kirkwad]

Use a flattener screen after the flash.

[Gilligan]

I'm not opposed to that, but there has to be a "proper" way to do this.

[mk162]

When we do a halftone base we use a 225s or even a 180s.  I find that with a halftone UB it's a lot harder to get moire, so don't worry too much about the rules...just make sure you can hold the dot.

[Sbrem]

It's from an older technique where mostly the only solid white base was where it's white. For instance, to underbase a yellow, in PS, we would convert the yellow to a grayscale, then invert it; yellow converts to a 20% gray, use an 80% base under it; Royal Blue converts to 85%, use a 15% base under it. It's not quite that simple, as adjustments are needed depending on the image, but that's the crux of it. It does work, and makes for a softer hand when the base isn't all solids.

Steve

[Gilligan]

Right, buy my matte down (or lack of) is leaving me with a fuzzy/crusty print.

[Orion]

Gilligan, I don't know what white you are using, but have you ever tried modifying with up to 5% curable reducer?

[Gilligan]

Gilligan, I don't know what white you are using, but have you ever tried modifying with up to 5% curable reducer?

Joe Clarke's Synergy inks.

I typically get a pretty good matte down with it.

[Orion]

I think that it is ink transfer problem. Off contact distance, screen tension, squeegee duro, pressure, angle, and speed. You know all this already. I am just suggesting things to be looked at. You'll figure it out.