New owner of the I Image S

[Sbrem]

for the underbasing, any color on top of white (or any other base color) needs to be marked as Overprint in the Attributes Dialog box. I'm pretty sure you'll need to make all of your colors spot colors, they can have any name, they don't have be PMS anything, for example we might have White Base Spot, and Highlight White Spot, and Green etc., as long as they are spot colors and not process. If not marked to overprint (not the base white in case I need to mention that) they will knock out of the base.

Steve

Does the base have to exist tho in the art? For instance imagine 3 circles in a line each is an individual spot color. I want an underbase under each color, do I have to actually create that base under the spot colors? Hope I am making sense. For traps is it a matter of just adding outlines to the spot colors I want to trap over the base? I dislike traps personally and always used chokes on the base.

Yes, it does. Double click White in your color pallet, change it from Process to Spot. Take each of your 3 colors and copy, then paste behind. Fill the ones you pasted behind with the now spot white, and trim with black, or any color that you aren't printing, which is your choke of course. For your other colors, they need to be spot colors as well, and each of them needs Overprint Fill checked on the Attributes pallet. I tried posting last night before I left, but kept getting an error.

Steve

[inkman996]

for the underbasing, any color on top of white (or any other base color) needs to be marked as Overprint in the Attributes Dialog box. I'm pretty sure you'll need to make all of your colors spot colors, they can have any name, they don't have be PMS anything, for example we might have White Base Spot, and Highlight White Spot, and Green etc., as long as they are spot colors and not process. If not marked to overprint (not the base white in case I need to mention that) they will knock out of the base.

Steve

Does the base have to exist tho in the art? For instance imagine 3 circles in a line each is an individual spot color. I want an underbase under each color, do I have to actually create that base under the spot colors? Hope I am making sense. For traps is it a matter of just adding outlines to the spot colors I want to trap over the base? I dislike traps personally and always used chokes on the base.

Yes you will still have to make an additional underbase spot color. So in your example, you would copy the 3 circles and "paste in place" and move underneath them all. Then set as a new underbase spot color. Then select your top colors as overprint in the attributes. 

Or if you like using layers in Ai, you could make a new layer and paste your base into that, then work on it separately and send it to the RIP on it's  own. Sometimes I do it that way when I'm separating more complex designs with lots of colors, you can  keep all your top colors on their own layer (no need to set as overprint in this case)  Layers allow you to keep everything in it's exact place and just turn on and off the layer when you need it.

You can choke the underbase with white, or trap the top colors depending on the artwork. You can also set strokes to overprint if needed

Congrats on the I image!!

Sounds good and what I basically imagined the process would be.

[WS Emerson]

You mentioned .PDF files and their large file size. We were saving designs as .EPS files at first because that's what we were taught to do. We noticed some issues with transparencies and or fountain fills not ripping properly. Since then I've discovered a way (using CorelDraw) to print the file without any issues and smaller file size. You print the design as you would send it to a printer (File>Print) but under the printer drop down menu there's an option listed as "Device Independent PostScript File". This feature's nice because you can actually use the separations tab and adjust frequency/angle of each color if need be or even set prepress options such as registration marks. One of the better features of this is the decrease in file size. The files after printed as a .PS file is less than half the size of .EPS files which saves alot of space on our network drives.

[Alex M]

There is a lot I would need to mention, but for starters, I think you jumped the gun and moved the machine into the room before a Teach got there. The Tech knows how to dismantle the table from the machine and is the one that usually gets the machine through the 32" door. That table comes apart and the back (wide part) and table are taken in the door separately.  Most customers are not as prepared as you were though with getting the machine in the room.  There is more to go over but yo provided a pretty good list of experiences.
I can hep you with file prep using Photoshop and Illustrator files. Not so much on Corel.

Maybe procedures changed since you were there. We were instructed that the machine had to be in its final location prior to the tech arriving. We even had to check this off on a couple check sheets for M&R to insure everything was set and ready. If we were informed that the tech could help us separate the machine I would have done so immediately, tearing through the walls cost a lot of time and money. Still tho a rocking machine it is and prints a beautiful screen!

If you send the service manager a note stating it has to go through a 36" door they will not make you move it to its final place.
If this was not the case I am sorry, they should have let you know to leave it until the tech arrives... as one of the guys who designed this machines concept... this was a critical piece to it.

To late now but that would have been really appreciated. Maybe insert that into the purchasing literature somewhere.

M&R is usually open to ideas like this. I would suggest it to whoever your rep is and the digital team should help with that. Tolga Efendi is the guy you are looking for at M&R to help with this.

[Dottonedan]

You mentioned .PDF files and their large file size. We were saving designs as .EPS files at first because that's what we were taught to do. We noticed some issues with transparencies and or fountain fills not ripping properly. Since then I've discovered a way (using CorelDraw) to print the file without any issues and smaller file size. You print the design as you would send it to a printer (File>Print) but under the printer drop down menu there's an option listed as "Device Independent PostScript File". This feature's nice because you can actually use the separations tab and adjust frequency/angle of each color if need be or even set prepress options such as registration marks. One of the better features of this is the decrease in file size. The files after printed as a .PS file is less than half the size of .EPS files which saves alot of space on our network drives.

That's fantastic!  There is not enough Corel user input on these. They really need to put together a Corel user manual specific to them and the I-Image.

[inkman996]

.PS was something I was going to test files with when I get more time.