mixing/blending primary colors to make various ink colors

[Fleetee]

Most of my designs use black and white (plastisol only) ink. However, at times, we do use other colors such as pink, yellow, green, etc in various different shades, just not nearly as much. The company decided that we would get into mixing/blending (honestly do not know the proper term for this, someone enlighten me please lol), that way we are flexible in color and wouldn't have to buy bulks of colors we may not end up using. I'm sure a lot of you guys on this forum has had this dilemma when first start and thinking about purchasing inks. The further thought process behind this is since we do a lot of testing of designs to see if they would do well, and if they do not do well, we discontinue the design. We thought this would be a much better and more cost-efficient method. And we are going with wilfex by the way (I am currently purchasing from screenprocess.com, anyone have any recommendations of where I can get wilfex ink at a cheaper rate?)
So now, I have to learn the ins and outs of mixing/blending inks to get a desire color.
Where should I start?
Any tips?
Can I just buy the standard/primary colors, a .01 gram scale, and some sort of mixing system and just through eye balling it and "trial and error", do I just figure it out?
Any specific type of plastisol ink that I would have to purchase that is meant for mixing/blending?
Are additive an absolute necessity?

Any videos you guys made to guide me through this? Or any video you guys watched or know that are very informative that you would recommend me?

Thanks a lot!!

[Frog]

This one is easy. Buy a mixing system, probably best from the ink company of the inks you are mostly using.
I use the Union Mixopake system. For most applications I add a soft hand base.
You can mix by eye, but, not only is it a talent not all possess, , you will be greatly limited if you try to use only primary colors.
If you do go this route, you will have to carefully log all weights and proportions for repeatability.

[Prince Art]

I'd also recommend a true mixing system. Many of the systems out there have a sample/starter pack that is typically in the $200-$300 range for everything you need to get started. (Not including scale & empty ink containers.) Definitely go this route, vs trying to figure out your own formulas. You'll save a lot of time, have better color matches, and much less waste.

I've used Rutland M3, which is a "finished ink" system, and have had good results. I've also tried Wilflex PC, which is a concentrate system. The ink is good, but difficult to match accurately in small batches.

[Frog]

Ya know, this is where the old timer, old school, out-of-time dinosaur frog starts lamenting the pre-internet days of local distributors with sales reps actually guiding purchases and adding a little instruction on this kind of thing. I bet that some still do but now it's via chat.

[Sbrem]

I'll second the Mixopake from Union, we're been using for years, happily. This would help you out quite a bit. Common knowledge tells you that red and blue make purple, but mix the wrong red and wrong blue, you'll get a maroon/brown. Using a system will help you avoid learning that kind of lesson the hard way... I'm a few months younger than Frog, and learned to mix colors by eye originally, but a system makes it soooo much easier.

Steve

[tonypep]

Whatever the manufacturer all the major ones have PMS formulas on line. Just dial in ink type/batch count and of course PMS #

[Doug S]

Yep, mixing by eye might work for a few jobs here and there but where you run into trouble is when they come back and want more of the same design and color.  Unless you mixed a ton of it to begin with.  So a mixing system like mentioned is what you need.  We use the wilflex pc here.

[Fleetee]

thanks guys! will look into the mixing system

[Fleetee]

This one is easy. Buy a mixing system, probably best from the ink company of the inks you are mostly using.
I use the Union Mixopake system. For most applications I add a soft hand base.
You can mix by eye, but, not only is it a talent not all possess, , you will be greatly limited if you try to use only primary colors.
If you do go this route, you will have to carefully log all weights and proportions for repeatability.

what exactly does the soft hand base do?? and when do you find it necessary to use?

[Frog]

This one is easy. Buy a mixing system, probably best from the ink company of the inks you are mostly using.
I use the Union Mixopake system. For most applications I add a soft hand base.
You can mix by eye, but, not only is it a talent not all possess, , you will be greatly limited if you try to use only primary colors.
If you do go this route, you will have to carefully log all weights and proportions for repeatability.

what exactly does the soft hand base do?? and when do you find it necessary to use?

It gives the ink a "softer hand". This comes at the expense of some opacity, so only really shines on whites, lights, or over underbases.
Your supplier should also be helping you with much of this stuff with suggestions of basic necessities. If not, find one who can help. Do you even ask the folks who sell you all of this stuff any of the questions that you have asked here?
I also bet that Wilflex has some of this information about their inks and additives.
You also really need to read up on basics with a book like "How to Print T Shirts for Fun and Profit".
Then again, as many of us have suggested to newbies for many years, brew a pot of coffee, go to the forum, and read, read, read. Lots of information is already here.
For that matter, as you know, you also have places like T Shirt Forum where many of these basic questions have been asked and answered dozens of times.
A couple of hours each night, and in a few months you will have had access to more information than many of us had in years. Due diligence will be rewarded.

[Fleetee]

This one is easy. Buy a mixing system, probably best from the ink company of the inks you are mostly using.
I use the Union Mixopake system. For most applications I add a soft hand base.
You can mix by eye, but, not only is it a talent not all possess, , you will be greatly limited if you try to use only primary colors.
If you do go this route, you will have to carefully log all weights and proportions for repeatability.

what exactly does the soft hand base do?? and when do you find it necessary to use?

yea i was speaking to a rep from screenprocess.com, they dont even really know the answer to my/these questions so i got a direct number to someone to better assist me. waiting on his call back! and will read through forums. honestly, been meaning to do that but just been really busy. sorry if i come off lazy and if i seem like im taking the easy route by just posting all my questions instead of doing my own research and read through previous post in this forum. i promise it's not intentional!!

It gives the ink a "softer hand". This comes at the expense of some opacity, so only really shines on whites, lights, or over underbases.
Your supplier should also be helping you with much of this stuff with suggestions of basic necessities. If not, find one who can help. Do you even ask the folks who sell you all of this stuff any of the questions that you have asked here?
I also bet that Wilflex has some of this information about their inks and additives.
You also really need to read up on basics with a book like "How to Print T Shirts for Fun and Profit".
Then again, as many of us have suggested to newbies for many years, brew a pot of coffee, go to the forum, and read, read, read. Lots of information is already here.
For that matter, as you know, you also have places like T Shirt Forum where many of these basic questions have been asked and answered dozens of times.
A couple of hours each night, and in a few months you will have had access to more information than many of us had in years. Due diligence will be rewarded.

[Frog]

yea i was speaking to a rep from screenprocess.com, they dont even really know the answer to my/these questions so i got a direct number to someone to better assist me. waiting on his call back! and will read through forums. honestly, been meaning to do that but just been really busy. sorry if i come off lazy and if i seem like im taking the easy route by just posting all my questions instead of doing my own research and read through previous post in this forum. i promise it's not intentional!!

The internet, with its instant gratification, has made all of us a little lazier.
I just have to stress, that you need a little more of a foundation to help you put many of our answers in perspective. (Hence the suggestion to buy a book, and put in a little time each night reading here or on other forums) Maybe some you tube instructionals as well. Perhaps check out Scott Fresener's offerings at T-Biz https://t-biznetwork.com/welcome-to-t-biz/
Frankly, many here could not even believe that you were for real, and not merely someone with too much time on their hands trolling us. A detailed introduction as to who you are, and why you are making this leap could have only helped.
I am guessing that you are the same guy from Ads With Purpose who suddenly disappeared after shocking many members here with a sudden huge presence along with your huge plans and zero knowledge.
Don't get me wrong, you're still very welcome, and many here love to help, and are honestly interested in your progress and eventual success, but, there are bound to be some who feel that you're not doing enough research on your own from other sources.
I have to bring up an old slogan I used many many years ago on another forum "The board helps those who help themselves"

[RICK STEFANICK]

GET A GOOD SCALE!!!

[3Deep]

We don't mix a lot of inks but what inks I have mixed it's been by eye and hit most dead on the head, but I agree with everyone else if your going to be mixing tons of inks then a good mixing system is in your future, or you'll be like me getting lucky

[Frog]

When I did a stint running a die stamping press, all inks were mixed by eye, no scale (unlike our offset guys in our other building mixing to litho pantone formulas)
We were always pretty damn close, until folks started comparing samples from a few years back.
Each time, the change was small enough to not be too noticeable, but five or ten steps down the line was outrageous!

Even when mixing by eye, it's a good idea to measure and log in quantities of the components for repeatability.