Getting started with WB and DC

[StinkyDaddy]

I got the Manga starter kit from Nazdar and ran a test batch with straight white DC. The art had some simple halftones at 35 line on a 156. I used Pro Chem HTX emulsion, burned 15% longer than normal and put the screen out in the sun to dry. It worked pretty well with print flood print, although the extra pass filled in some of the more dense tones. Not a super pure white, but nice and soft.
I have a job coming up on warm grey NL3600's with white, red and black ink.
I'd appreciate some input from folks who have done WB and DC.
Would you DC the white and have that UB the red WB or do the red as DC?
Planning to do the black WB.
Customer is looking for softness, asked for DC and is not expecting a pure white.
Thanks,
Wm.

[ebscreen]

Can't really ub with the white, too much pigment, will stick to other screens and plastisol probably won't adhere.
Would be nice though. Everyone just starting with discharge always asks/tries the same thing.

Discharge both. Red then white. Can't tape on the bottom unless it's a real short run.

Grey in general discharges nicely and your white will likely be brighter.

Start testing your red now, can be difficult to get a bright red with certain systems.

[brandon]

Don't forget to document everything. All ink systems have their pros and cons. Probably don't wanna hear this but spend a day or weekend and print a ton of your shop shirts in discharge. See what works for your shop, get cool different tees out of it plus a ton of experience. And document everything.

[StinkyDaddy]

Thanks for the info. Going to do more tests tonight.

[ZooCity]

Excellent advice already.

I'll add that high white loaded DC inks do not have a soft hand out of the dryer, quite the opposite in most cases.  Titanium dioxide, presumably, reacting with the discharge agent and ink leaves a sulphurous crust.  You may want to look into pre-laundering if it's retail and soft hand on the rack is critical, otherwise just educate your client.   We just did a client requested DC job and they were a little freaked about the white print appearing to crack but wash it and all is well.

Curing is paramount with DC both for color reproduction and washfastness.  Simply put, you need time in the dryer and a lot of heated air exchange.   You need to somehow get the print off the press as wet as possible and then simultaneously blast all the moisture out while heating the garment up, as quickly as possible.  It's a tall order for any dryer- we run a sprint HO with 16' of heat and it can struggle to cure big DC prints rolling off two autos.

You will need to engineer prints from the fabric up, different from the approach with most plastisol or coating type inks. 

Your upcoming job should print great with the spec you listed.  Activate the red low and experiment with less v. more pigment.   Don't be afraid to flash as needed, if the art calls for it. 

Last off if you have a dark in like black use a true WB ink.  Do not use unactivated DC ink.  I've heard of people doing this but your washfastness will be inferior.  If you want to run a dark color as DC activate it super low, the activator is part of what makes this ink work. 

[StinkyDaddy]

Thanks.
I ran my first test with 3 mins @ 320 with the recirc and exhaust turned up.
The engineering of the print is something I'm going to have to learn, this is my first experience with DC and WB.
I'll try the red activated a little low.
Planning to do the black with WB, the Magna kit has a couple of DC bases and several WB.
Thanks again.
Wm.

[RICK STEFANICK]

The Sericol reds are hands down the best out there straight up. We do add 2% penetrant and that really softens the hand even on the whites. 4% ZFS in the reds