Full Flood Reverse Detail

[endhymns]

So technically this question pertains to a flatstock job, but I have a feeling that the answer may be a screen making issue which leads me to ask this question here. If there is a better place for this question, please feel free to move.

Anyhow, we abandoned a print run earlier this afternoon on account of not being able to hold some fine reverse detail. The jist of the job is that it's an otherwise easy 2 color, but the key plate is a full 18x24 flood with some fine reversed knockouts that were pretty unforgiving. I'm running TW 5500 waterbased inks with an added 1% thickener in hopes of holding that detail to no avail. My immediate plan is to level back a few of the problem spots in pre press and reoutput. I was also going to bump up my mesh from a 230 to a 280 with an additional facecoat.

My question is, is this thinking correct that an added facecoat on higher mesh will create a better gasket thus reducing gain? Or, is this thinking backwards?

[ericheartsu]

With waterbase, i think you want the emulsion to be a little thinner.

Also for flatstock, 230 is gonna be to low for detail. I'd go up to 305, if not a 355.

[Frog]

And I often tweak artwork on fine detail reveres-outs no matter what type of printing.

[mimosatexas]

higher mesh, thin stencil so you arent laying down too much ink (which then spreads as it hits the smooth surface or the paper), and stroking your negative text a bit to allow for gain.  You should be adjusting your gradients and details to account for gain as a rule anyway as already mentioned.

[endhymns]

I meant to follow up yesterday morning, but the day got away from me. Anyhow, I did end up leveling back select areas and re-outputted my film and burned on a higher mesh screen. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the input, everyone.