New Workhorse Sabre

[mimosatexas]

very cool! As otgers mentioned, gotta optimize that white. look into s-mesh and find a better white ink. lots of discussion aboutbboth on the forums.

[K-BOB]

dumb question but... how dose the flashback not dry the ink in the screen? wouldn't the heat from that give you problems? Just wondering?

[jvanick]

dumb question but... how dose the flashback not dry the ink in the screen? wouldn't the heat from that give you problems? Just wondering?

there are reflectors on the bulbs from the flashback but more importantly is there are high speed fans that blow under the screen to make sure the ink doesn't cure in the screen, as well as cool the surface of the shirt.

[heray11]

whgo did your install?

[Nation03]

dumb question but... how dose the flashback not dry the ink in the screen? wouldn't the heat from that give you problems? Just wondering?

That's one of my concerns. I'm new to the flashback so I was thinking for extra protection I would use some thick foil to lay on top of the element and then foil tape them in place. Not sure if it will do anything, but maybe it will keep more of the heat reflected away from the screen.

[heray11]

 Hello;
  My name is Howard Ray. I was a tech for Workhorse and TUF products, where the F/B was invented in 1992.
  The tin foil is a way of helping the reflection of the heat down. But, only fold it to conform to the deflectors. If you use tape, the heat will make the tape turn loose.
 Also, get you some screen wire fiber mesh and fold it over the blower motors housing, especially at the open spot  between the two blowers.
  Then when the lint is flying around it wont go on the fan blades. You can either clean the mesh or replace it. Make sure its the fiber type
   Another suggestion. watch the distance between the top of the flashand the bottom of the screen. Sometimes if your doing goodies, and are putting down white, youmight find that you could raise the screen with 4 nickles or a paint stick. Also, make sure the f/b unit is running parrell with the screen.

  I am sure you were shown how to do this by raising or lowering the wheels.
 Also, be aware of the way the return switch on the elem tray is mouunter. The skinny metal actuator need to be pointed toward the center of the press. If it isn't the bracket sometimes stopps short and it f/b wont return to the home position, and cud possibly burn a shirt and or tthe screen.
  If you have any qquestions about the f/b  , feel free to call me  Howard Ray  713 344 8604   on any subject

[spotcolorsupply]

dumb question but... how dose the flashback not dry the ink in the screen? wouldn't the heat from that give you problems? Just wondering?

That's one of my concerns. I'm new to the flashback so I was thinking for extra protection I would use some thick foil to lay on top of the element and then foil tape them in place. Not sure if it will do anything, but maybe it will keep more of the heat reflected away from the screen.

Tin foil shouldn't be necessary. As long as the reflectors are in good shape, and the fan filters are not clogged. Reflectors are a maintenance part, and should be replaced every year or two.

[kingscreen]

We run two Sabres with Flashbacks. Never had an issue with ink drying in the screen due to the flashback.  If that's an issue, you're likely running too slow and overflashing/dwelling the flags under the screen too long.

[Nation03]

I think my bigger concern is that much heat running close to s-thread mesh. I'm sure it works fine, but I wanted to take any precaution i could to prevent the heat from popping the screens.

[merchmonster]

The biggest issue with the flashbacks is:
Careless operators breaking bulbs forgetting to change the flashback from table down to table up mode
The stupid mesh covering the fans gets spray tack and lint covered fast. And takes long time to clean

[Prints Charming]

Well, it's not blazing fast... but it's definitely fast enough!

Yeah, we were good with ours pretty  much right away.

Which white are you using