We tried the roller mesh and super high tension printing for a few years and it works well if you can pull it off. But unfortunately you need a press that is calibrated to a very high tolerance and it also needs to stay there. The RPM held it's calibration until my press op started spinning the press around by pushing down on a pallet corner and ruined our pallet parallelism and therefore ruined our ability to get the most out of the roller mesh. It's very tough, but you can't print very fast, and the deposits tend to be really thick.
I know I've said this before but there really is no reason why every textile shop that uses plastisol ink shouldn't be using Thin Thread mesh exclusively. The benefits are simply too great and they outperform their standard thread counterparts by such a large margin that it is my opinion that any shop not using thin thread is doing a disservice to their business. I hope nobody takes that personally, but I honestly feel that way. Increase opacity, increase press speeds, use less ink, increase efficiency, produce higher quality prints in a shorter amount of time, etc, and the only negative can be negated if you have guys that care about handling the screens. A thin thread screen will last millions of cycles if properly handled. The most durable of the thin threads is the 180/48, followed by the 225/40. 135s are delicate, 150s can be delicate, 120/54 hold up well, 100/55 can be tough to take care of but not impossible, 90/71 are pretty hard to bust. The high mesh options, 310/30 and 330/30 are the only ones that I couldn't keep around, seems like they blew out just by looking at them wrong. However, we were using those on the Shurloc EZ frames and I haven't put those counts on a newman roller frame so I probably should try that soon.
