Permanent Block Out on Static Frames

[mt_signex]

I'm sure we all hate taping screens, and more than that, we all hate throwing money in the trash can when we reclaim screens.

I first saw a thread on another forum of a high volume printer using screens from Graphic Screen Fashion that had permanent blockout around the edges to eliminate the need for taping, so I rushed to order a case of them.  They seal using screen glue 2" around the inside edge of the frame and seal with a urethane caulk to prevent ink from getting underneath the mesh but it wasn't an ideal solution because the ink is extremely hard to clean off the caulked areas and the screens remain permanently dirty and it gets annoying.

After talking with some of my suppliers that make screens I found a great solution that has been working in my shop for 2-3 years now.

I use NAZDAR B-535 LIQUID TAPE for this purpose.

I use a small square to measure inside each frame and help with placing tape.  Take some 1.5 or 2" masking tape and place it 2" or however far inside the frame you want on the back side, lay the square over your tape in the corner areas and rip the tape, in the end you end up with a square of masking tape with 2" of mesh showing between the tape and the outside edge of the frame.

I usually do 6 frames at a time as it takes a bit of time and space around the shop to do it.

You mix up a small amount in a plastic dispensing bottle (like restaurant ketchup bottles) and then use a ink cleaning card to spread it into the open mesh.  The tape keeps it from getting into the good part of the screen and the adhesive dries fairly quickly so you can then remove the tape shortly afterward and allow it to cure.  I start by putting a line of adhesive on the frame itself and then scrape it onto the mesh and re-apply as needed to to get a thin/full coverage layer on the mesh.

Once this is done, you need to perform another step and it's what takes more time/adhesive.  Stand the screen up on one edge and apply a bead of adhesive in the edge of the frame where the mesh meets like you would do caulking, but it doesn't take nearly as much.  Some air bubbles will form, so you may have to re-apply a bit before you're done.  I do one side of every frame, and then it's usually dry enough to rotate and start on another side, until you've done all 4 sides.

On my automatic, I always tape the back side of the screens, but I *never* have to tape the inside of the screens again, so it's an excellent solution.  If you're printing manually, you can get by with never taping the backs either.  So with a bit of time and effort you can greatly decrease the cost of "throw away" supplies in your shop.

I don't have any pictures but could take some to show how my screens are holding up, but I've yet to see any adverse effects from doing this on some screens I've been using for 3 years now, and I use them more often than any, due to not having to tape them on the inside.

Hope it helps!

[mimosatexas]

Tried this a while back and not a fan. Ink gets into the corners of the screen and causes extra work to get clean during reclaim. Additionally, it means you have to spray out both sides of the screen if you want to get everything. Tape may cost more, but saves a lot of time for me.

[screenprintguy]

not a big fan either. If we went to 25x36 frames, I'd do it and not tape, but on 23x31 still using tape, it's sort of a waste. It does hold up though, but coating over it can be messy if you aren't careful and your reclaim person will hate you every time they get back splash in their face when the pressure washer hits it lol.

[Homer]

we tried it years ago. failed miserably. switched to CCI waterbase blockout, hated that even more than permanent, that purple stuff was brutal! now we just use emulsion if we feel we need extra protection and slap them in the sun or back on the LED....we mostly go without tape. Wider scoop coater = the shiznit....

good for you if you found a way to make it work!

[screenprintguy]

we tried it years ago. failed miserably. switched to CCI waterbase blockout, hated that even more than permanent, that purple stuff was brutal! now we just use emulsion if we feel we need extra protection and slap them in the sun or back on the LED....we mostly go without tape. Wider scoop coater = the shiznit....

good for you if you found a way to make it work!

[mimosatexas]

I'm using a 19 inch coater and the gap is maybe 1/2 inch on each side, but I still use tape on anything that isnt short run or sleeve/left chest/pocket/koozies/etc.  its just insurance and makes cleanup easier in general.

[mt_signex]

There is a bit of a learning curve but with an automatic not much ink gets in the side of the screen and with adding the adhesive down each side, nothing gets in the corner/crack of the screen.  Although, when spraying the front side of the screen, the splash back does get annoying but it's much less annoying that having to remove tape residue before/during/after reclaiming.

I've bought the best tape, and tape that advertised to be just as good, and they all seem to leave something on the screen from time to time.  PMI 3" solid white blockout tape is the best, but I bought a case of "equivalent" tape from Ryonet last year and it literally melts and drips all over the screen and onto the floor and makes you want to never tape anything but a box again.

[mimosatexas]

I use the PMI split tape and have never had it leave even a spec of residue on a screen in two years.  Big reason why I use it!

[rusty]

I use a 18 inch wide scoop coater and do one coat on the outside of the frame and "seal" the screen and then use a 16 inch wide scoop to do one coat on the outside (which picks up the excess) and then one coat on the inside. So essentiallly I am coating 2 our 1 in.

 If needed I use a clean up card to wipe off excess emulsion on the frame.

Works great and eliminates using tape except for blocking out registration marks. probably takes an extra minute per screen but the cost of not using tape is worth it.

One trick is to put more emulsion in the big coater cause the 16 inch will pick up the thick excess