Printing neck tags

[Prosperi-Tees]

I dont print transfers and really have no desire as this customer will only do 50 pieces at a shot normally, basically 10 of each s-2xl. Would ordering transfers be cost effective?

[cleveprint]

we just got done doing about 4k shirts with plastisol transfers. pain in the butt, but we charge for it. tried to screen print them, but the majority of the shirts were canvas triblends and even with the lightest pass, you could still see the imprint thru the shirt. the heat pressed transfers seem to sit on top much better. we had 2 part timers pressing all week and banged them out. between the 2, i feel like we were getting 250 pc per hour done.

we make a screen with 12 up all of one size. screen print onto the transfer paper and trim the sheets up from there. we never looked into ordering them, but i feel the only real cost in material is the transfer paper. ink is negligible as there is so little going down on the paper. i think i mixed a quart and it lasted thru all of the shirts.

now on regular cotton shirts, i do feel that you can get away with printing without the imprint showing thru. but those damn triblends were so thin...

[ericheartsu]

I dont print transfers and really have no desire as this customer will only do 50 pieces at a shot normally, basically 10 of each s-2xl. Would ordering transfers be cost effective?

why not? if they are single color, just print them on a sheet, and run them through your dryer at around 215-230 degrees, then just cut them out and powder them. It's really easy.

If it's a multi color transfer then that's a little different, but it's not much harder

[mimosatexas]

single color transfers really are easy.  I was a little hesitant the first time simply because I didn't know what to expect, but they are so straightforward.  Use a high mesh count, print in a single stroke, powder em while wet, dry in your conveyor at 200-230 for 15-20 seconds.  cut and press.  no real variables.

Multi color you have to preshrink all the paper through your dryer, rack em over night, account for some shrinkage across colors depending on how tight the registration is and how many colors you will be printing, figure out underbasing for glue, etc.  The most technical ones I have done were 7 screens and had some butt registration and included areas of 55lpi gradients (no matching colors like you would with sim process, but still tight registration) and used tonal underbasing and a fine clear base for gluing at the end.  It took a lot of trial and error to account for the paper shrinkage across the 7 screens and nail the registration, but since that job every transfer job is easy mode...

[TCT]

You guys can completely remove the powder step by using a ink like Excalibur transfer ink(950 series I believe). It was sooooooooooo nice when we switched to that for printing transfers. Goodbye powder!

[T Shirt Farmer]

Pad print rocks the inside tag print, you can pick them up used pretty darn cheap. I got a great tip when visiting Dan at Forward.. put a rubber band around the sleeve pallet above the neck, you can then flip the label up and under the rubber band keeping it out of the way when print... it is really smart to not trim the labels off until after the print helps avoid printing the wrong size.

[TCT]

I got a great tip when visiting Dan at Forward..

Dan and Kevin are great guys! I think Kevin replaced the blood in his veins with ink! Talk about passion, those guys are something!

[Shanarchy]

Pad print rocks the inside tag print, you can pick them up used pretty darn cheap. I got a great tip when visiting Dan at Forward.. put a rubber band around the sleeve pallet above the neck, you can then flip the label up and under the rubber band keeping it out of the way when print... it is really smart to not trim the labels off until after the print helps avoid printing the wrong size.

Pretty interesting idea.

Thanks for sharing.

[Screened Gear]

Pad print rocks the inside tag print, you can pick them up used pretty darn cheap. I got a great tip when visiting Dan at Forward.. put a rubber band around the sleeve pallet above the neck, you can then flip the label up and under the rubber band keeping it out of the way when print... it is really smart to not trim the labels off until after the print helps avoid printing the wrong size.

I usually just stick the label to the pallet above the neck. Works the same I would guess. I charge $.75 for removing the tags. I have never removed a tag on a job. I just tell the customer how to do it. I know its not hard to do but I don't want to risk cutting a shirt and having to reprint for one shirt.

[redwoodtees]

Resurrecting an old thread..

I am screen printing neck tags, and having a hard time finding a way to keep the original tag (which is staying on the shirt) in good condition in the dryer.  If I flip it under the shirt it takes on a permanent bend. And of course if I leave it exposed it gets completely destroyed. Is there any way to keep the original tag pristine?

[ericheartsu]

Resurrecting an old thread..

I am screen printing neck tags, and having a hard time finding a way to keep the original tag (which is staying on the shirt) in good condition in the dryer.  If I flip it under the shirt it takes on a permanent bend. And of course if I leave it exposed it gets completely destroyed. Is there any way to keep the original tag pristine?

rubber bands!

[redwoodtees]

rubber bands!

My issue is not on press, it's in the dryer. I know you are not suggesting that I send rubber bands through the dryer

[ffokazak]

We pull them off before printing...

Are you printing and leaving the tags?

[redwoodtees]

That's right.. I need to leave the original tag in place.