Who's using Shur-Loc EZ frames in a dip tank?

[Shanarchy]

I just started using Shur-Loc EZ frames with S mesh. I'm loving them!

However, I'm having trouble with them. It seems that the dip tank solution is getting stuck in the channels that mount on the frame. During exposure the vacuum is pulling it out and it's getting on my screen. Subsequently, the screen is getting ruined. After I wash them, I coat them (cap film), and put them in the drying rack to dry. Do I need to stand them up to help them drain? Am I just doing something wrong? Help!

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I've had that issue too, but I only have 1 (one) EZ Frame I've been trying out, with 150-48 S mesh, I believe.

I store it vertically...but standing on a corner in my darkroom. But it needs more time sitting in the darkroom (DRY darkroom) than say, static aluminum frames. Otherwise, you get the dripping you are referring to.

Besides that nasty habit, I like it just fine.

[Colin]

Yep, well over 100 of them.

We need to make sure they are completely dry before exposing.  So, after reclaiming, we end up putting them into our dry booth which contains a couple fans and a really good dehumidifier.  We definitely want to wait 2-4 hours before coating to make sure all the channels are dry.....

Yes, those damn channels are frikin annoying.....  have I mentioned it's annoying?

[Shanarchy]

Yep, well over 100 of them.

We need to make sure they are completely dry before exposing.  So, after reclaiming, we end up putting them into our dry booth which contains a couple fans and a really good dehumidifier.  We definitely want to wait 2-4 hours before coating to make sure all the channels are dry.....

Yes, those damn channels are frikin annoying.....  have I mentioned it's annoying?

Well after exposing 15 failed screens....I am trying to make sure the channels are really rinsed out. I really like these frames and want t make it work. I very rarely expose a screen the same day it was coated. If I can get the sip tank solution out of there and it's just water, that should evaporate. I usually just let me frames air dry, sometimes use a fan, but will probably start putting them in the drying cabinet to see if that helps at all.

At least it's not me.

[cclaud3]

I have about 50 of them and haven't had dip tank solution get drawn out of them during exposure. When rinsing off the reclaimed screen I spray the channels out while it's on a corner in the booth. As I'm reclaiming I place the freshly reclaimed screen on it's corner, in the screen closet, as others have mentioned, otherwise water will take longer to evaporate. Then the next screen is reclaimed and I set the one on it's corner in a horizontal rack shirt side down. Dehumidifier running the entire time in the screen closet. Water is gone within a couple of hours.

Once or twice I've had a tiny amount of water at the corner of the screen appear after exposure while still sitting on the glass. It wasn't dip tank solution as it was clear and didn't effect anything.

[Doug S]

I have several, roughly 120.  When I'm done reclaiming each one, I set them against the wall vertically until I've reclaimed another 3 and put the 1st three that I stood vertically in the screen rack.  Then I start the whole thing over again.  It gives each one of them roughly 10 minutes to drain before going horizontally in the rack.  After I've filled the rack, it goes in the room with a heater and dehumidifier for at least 3/4 of a day before coating.

I hope that makes sense.

[1964GN]

We blow out all of the channels/nooks/crannies with compressed air before they go into the drying room

[Shanarchy]

Follow up:

It seems the cap film I'm using has changed and I needed to increase exposure time about 20%. That was the main issue.

I'm trying to set up a way to store them where the channels can naturally drain better. I'm also laying a rag down on the top and bottom of the frame between the glass. This is catching any solution the vacuum draws out and it stopping it from spreading. I also need to make sure my new screen guy is flushing the channels better. This way it's only water and not dip tank solution. Plus water will probably evaporate easier.

[Sbrem]

We use them; anything like this needs a little extra drying time to avoid this problem. A real screen dryer, manufactured or homemade, needs some heat to help evaporate that extra moisture more quickly. We keep ours around 100°

Steve

[Evo]

I used them at my old shop. I would dry them vertically after reclaim, but standing on one corner each so the moisture runs out of all the channels.

One thing is you may have a leaky frame. (which is a nightmare once under vacuum) Take one out of the dip tank and dry it, then shake the frame in a quiet room. If it took on water, you will hear it sloshing around.

They are supposed to be water tight. Surloc replaced any of ours that had issues (just a few) with no fuss.

[T Shirt Farmer]

100+ in my shop all have been drilled and pined for mhm, we have had zero issues with water inside tube.

[TCred]

Hey Farmer, What are the pins attached with? Did you seal them?

We are using Shurlocs with ROQ pins that are pop riveted to the frame. I am planning on sealing them with a product used for dealing aircraft fuel tanks, but now I am wondering if that's overkill?

[mk162]

you can use silicone to seal them, works fine

[T Shirt Farmer]

you can use silicone to seal them, works fine

yup that's what we do and have zero issues with leaks....

[Shanarchy]

I do have a drying cabinet. I've started to work that in to my drying process.

Good call on the leaky frame. I have at least one which I can hear liquid sloshing around in. I'll check them and see how many and if I should call for a replacement.