Discussing which whites we use is better than bashing other forums

[Frog]

Sure, that's their site. I figured that Screened Gear was talking about an interactive site from which he could order. If not, I'm sure that he appreciates your link.

[Frog]

With our white (Xenon) the reason for the body it has is that we do not use puffing agents for our bleed blockers.  We use a plasticizer.  The ink is manufactured on the outer edges of its performance envelope.  A little curable reducer is all you need to break the body and not lose any performance.

Maybe the next gallon I order, you could include a cup of reducer.

[mk162]

Their CR is good stuff.  I also like how they put it in a jug instead of a stupid bucket.  A jug is so much easier to use.

[JayzTeez]

I don't think anyone has mentioned Wilflex Bright Tiger.  I use this all the time and its great, it does puff up alittle bit but overall a very good white at a very low price.

[JBLUE]

I don't think anyone has mentioned Wilflex Bright Tiger.  I use this all the time and its great, it does puff up alittle bit but overall a very good white at a very low price.

I use it for highlight whites. It does have a blowing agent in it so sometimes that does get in the way but over all its a good top white. Are you using it for a base too? We have never had good results using it as a base white.

[Frog]

I have used the Wilflex Artist white as a base or a highlight on my manual.

[ebscreen]

I don't recall the Artist having the puff (or as much of it) as the Tiger. Hate the puff, hate it.

[Screened Gear]

With our white (Xenon) the reason for the body it has is that we do not use puffing agents for our bleed blockers.  We use a plasticizer.  The ink is manufactured on the outer edges of its performance envelope.  A little curable reducer is all you need to break the body and not lose any performance.

Is this the same Xenon?

http://xenonproducts.com/default.aspx

That is the first time I have seen the site. Its worthless to me. No real product descriptions and no prices. Plus you can't order anything. Sorry Sonny but you need to put some of the money from your white ink into making the site better.

The white ink only needs a little reducer not a cup. Maybe an ounce or two per gallon then mix in good. I like printing with it right from the bucket on my manual. Mix it good then print. On the auto I have to reduce it a little more to keep the ink down and flowing. (I have 2 winged floods on their way from Action, can’t wait.)
 

[Printficient]

With our white (Xenon) the reason for the body it has is that we do not use puffing agents for our bleed blockers.  We use a plasticizer.  The ink is manufactured on the outer edges of its performance envelope.  A little curable reducer is all you need to break the body and not lose any performance.

Is this the same Xenon?

http://xenonproducts.com/default.aspx

Yes.  The website is not very informative though.  The owners don't want to spend the money to update so that our prices can stay where they are

[mk162]

I understand that since their products are mostly sold through distributors and usually they are more familiar with a shops needs and how a product should work for them.

[sportsshoppe]

I am a One Stroke hybrid... tried Xenon but did not like to add reducer each gallon cost is about $12 per gal more but the flash and coverage is awesome! I had a little trouble with the Xenon white on the flashing. Sonny called and I talked to R&D but I just could not get it down on the flash-back to do right... I like to get my shirts a good 340 degrees going through the dryer and Sonny said his cures at 320 ( I think that was it ) and that I could over cure the white. Although I do know you can bubble ink if dryer is too hot. Have done that before