The Rutland I believe is a High Opacity - part of the problem yes. I cut it probably a good 30% with One Stroke's plasitsol base - to the point it started to change shade a bit, still super sticky.
The others are certainly not formulated to be WoW, but the cutting THEM ALL with base (minimum 10%) helped them to get close enough.
What is RFU?
All our squeegees are 70 duro from different manufacturers, so real duro unknown. Edges not new, but not too badly worn either, most maybe 6 months old, we rotate about 15-18 squeegees.
We currently don't have any mesh higher than a 166.
undercutting/untrapping the edges of the art - is that a shortcut that with everything in a perfect world shouldn't need done? Or do really talented printers still do that? It seems like a potentially hard to keep track of/measure variable (though I can see it could be pretty damn effective too)
What's is the print order (if all else were in the right setup) of ink colors? Dark to light? Light to dark? Why? Is it different printing on a light shirt versus an underbase? Different on a dark shirt?
What's the first thing that will change that order for you? the art design? a particular ink color?
