Vintage/faded effect

[ebscreen]

Funny thing here. We can easily print based out plastisol on dark garments and achieve the vintagey look
that works for a lot of designs.

But how to do it with discharge?

Under-activating? Seems like it would be super inconsistent, especially across different color garments and even inks.

Under-pigmenting? Seems like colors would tend towards the taupe.

[Screened Gear]

Funny thing here. We can easily print based out plastisol on dark garments and achieve the vintagey look
that works for a lot of designs.

But how to do it with discharge?

Under-activating? Seems like it would be super inconsistent, especially across different color garments and even inks.

Under-pigmenting? Seems like colors would tend towards the taupe.

Good question. I think the best way to do it is with just plain waterbase no DC.

[tonypep]

Underactivate. The ink will change with each garment color. This is huge at resort and sometimes is merely an element of a design.
Cameras broke sorryno pis

[ZooCity]

Just saw this.  Yes, under-activating works great but, yes, you're going to see some serious variance across dye lots.  Low activated and/or low pigmented DC brings out the worst of this.  I still like it an did a bunch for a local brewery last season.  The wastage rate was much higher than any other approach however.  i.e., running 0.5% activate base on black tri-blends looked great except for the 10 that discharged to some nasty ass purple instead of the cool, bleached out grey (prob overdyed cotton). good bye $60, hello test material.

Your curing need to be really spot on too for the curing a little temp variance one way or the other will change the look.

Straight WB, allowing the shirt color to darken it to the desired color (just like using soft base plastisol) is much friendlier in production but you can't get the looks we were getting with low activated DC using this approach.

[ebscreen]

Yeah, we did the discharge tint thing as a test awhile back. Some came out awesome, some not so much.

I guess what I'm looking for is the based out plastisol effect that's fairly popular lately. I guess if it ain't
broken I probably shouldn't fix it, just trying to go after some business with our WB prowess...

[JBLUE]

We played around a bit and we still are running the plastisol. It is just to predictable since we have been running the transparent prints for so long.

[ZooCity]

I came to a similar conclusion and, to be frank, those based out plastisol prints really don't feel a whole lot worse in hand.

The wastage with the low % activator is pretty hard to justify, it can be higher than 10%.  I would run the crap of out that technique if I had guaranteed dyestuffs but AA has been all over the freaking road lately with many of our orders containing 3-4 dye lots just on a visual inspections and they have a lot, like borderline reject the shipment, amount of variance between these lots.  They've been having stock issues for awhile though as they pull stock from their failing retail stores (gee, thanks for sending all those smalls individually packaged for retail you deusche bags.  Oh and look, these are labeled in some asian language, awesome, that's just what clients want to see on their American made shirt)... *ahem*, which is contributing.  Canvas is claiming "guaranteed dischargeable"  for the 3001, I wonder if there is any teeth to that claim.

I think this look could be done just as well with a WB Base + PC system though, it would just take more trial and error since the result at the back of the dryer would be quite different. 

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I've never tried a "based down" plastisol look. In fact, I don't really even know what that means. I don't even stock "base" as such. I keep soft hand clear, and curable reducer, but not any "base". I don't have a plastisol mixing system, because I rarely do sim pro. But I assume "based down" just involves adding more base than called for, to achieve limited opacity.

1) can this be done to RFU plastisols?
2) how much base is added?

Sorry for the awfully neophyte sounding question, but I've decided the bulk of the truly stupid questions are the ones you never get around to asking.

[Screened Gear]

Not sure what others do to base down plastisol. I have a client that likes the worn vintage, grunge look. Most of the time its white ink. I mix about 20 percent quick white with curable reducer. It gives you a softish vintage look.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Thanks, Jon.

I'm going to try that.

[Screened Gear]

The last job I did for that guy I did with d- white with extender and water. Percentages I don't remember. Just did enough water and extender until I got the look I wanted. No activator. They  were Kelly green shirts. They looked good. Not as speckled as plastisol but a soft and worn look.

[tonypep]

For soft plastisol try Chino or Fashion base. Add white and PC as needed.

[tonypep]

DCB with 2% activator