Mixing systems

[cbjamel]

I am using Unions mixing system now, problem is some colors are way off from pms book is they other systems better in color matching? Also how about being able to print on lights or dark's without under-base.  i am thinking QCM, Wilflex or ??

Thanks,
Shane
cbjamel@msn.com

[blue moon]

which system are you using? The unimatch will blend better and be closer on colors. mixo will have  a hard time achieving certain colors because it is so opaque. You are trading off the ability to cover better with the ability to blend  and create lighter shades better. without getting into using systems that use different bases and concentrated pigments, your choices are rather limited.

pierre

[Colin]

Shane.

Do you want a ready for use mixing system?  Or a base and pigment/color booster system. 

How big is your shop? 

How many colors are you mixing a day?  How much of each color? 

What kind of designs are you printing?  Are you doing a lot of p/f/p?  Are you underbasing all the time or trying to get away with cutting out the underbase as often as possible?

Are you printing wet on wet a lot?

These answers will let us narrow down which system is best for your shop.

[tonypep]

Ink companies do not need to match the entire Pantone book in order to be "licensed". Only 100 I believe. So its easy for the folks in the lab to write off a formula as "good enough" after that

[JBLUE]

Right now we are testing Rutlands C3 system and I have to say that so far they have been dead on compared to our Wilflex system.

[cbjamel]

1. I am using the Mixo series. I didn't know only 100 had to match to approved.
2. Run a 97 Gauntlet 8/10 Servo with Mini Spint.
3. Mix color - Sometime 5-7 a week sometimes 1-2 a week.
4. Do alot PFP.
5. No underbase on backs sometimes small areas for left chest.
 
Hope this helps answer your guys questions.
Thanks,
Shane

[Colin]

1. I am using the Mixo series. I didn't know only 100 had to match to approved.
2. Run a 97 Gauntlet 8/10 Servo with Mini Spint.
3. Mix color - Sometime 5-7 a week sometimes 1-2 a week.
4. Do alot PFP.
5. No underbase on backs sometimes small areas for left chest.
 
Hope this helps answer your guys questions.
Thanks,
Shane

Ok.

So the first thing you want to know is: In order to achieve a "true" match to the pantone book, a majority of the colors will be very translucent.  i.e. they will be low in opacity.  If you want to increase that colors opacity, you will need to introduce either white or black to the formula.... a "graying" component. 

In a ready for use ink system, you do not have that option.  You end up buying the most "opaque" system available.  As a result, color matches will be as close as they can.... but opaque.  The one exception to this being QCM's system which is opaque and uses a clear in the formulas for accuracy.  They also have an "opaque base" that you can use in place of the clear (I'll talk about that in the next section).

Your other options are a base and pigment/color booster system.

You have the option of using a standard base or an opaque base to add your pigments to.  Now the opaque base actually has a gray look to it and it will shift your color matches a bit.  This is unavoidable when trying to maximize your opacity.  You can also maximize your pigment load (increase the amount of colorant going into your formula) to boost opacity as well.  However, this can also cause your mix to shift color (noticing a theme here?).

This of course is the short but sweet answer.

The end result is:  If you need an ink to be as opaque as possible, do not expect the color to match the PMS book...

Good luck!

[Prosperi-Tees]

I never like to say match I say simulate. I use the QCM system and the software tells you the opacity of the color from 1-100. It also gives you options on some colors for opaque matches which use white in the formula instead of clear. As fof PFP on darks, they will shine up considerably but can be done.

[Screened Gear]

Let me say this about the Mixo system. It is good enough. I only mix about 5 to 10 colors a month but it works. I do have a background in color theory so when it is off I can fix it with out many issues (some of it is just getting lucky) but it does work. keep in mind some of the colors are more accurate after curing then in the bucket.  I don't think the system prints very well wet on wet. I am looking for a new system.

[Frog]

I also use it, also find some formulas better than others, but put that on the client to okay sometimes.
Wet on wet abilities can vary with what base you may use to cut it with.
I do pretty well with IC Soft Hand, and seems to me that Union Soft Hand was pretty good as well (but that was pre-CPSIA if anything changed)