New Army T

[killergraphics]

This is the one I showed the art pict of the other day.

It was a little hard to keep the face the way I wanted it in the middle...Dumb Ole me put the black in a 230, I wanted to do it in a 305.
But I'm lazy.

For the newer guys.

I did it semi instead of cmyk because of different color shirts.

55lpi...22.5 angle...ellipse dot.





The weather today is nice and good tunes on the radio.

[Dottonedan]

I don't think we saw the art pic...or I didn't.  Where at?

I like the blends in the type. Good job.  I also like the fact that the whole print looks consistent between garment colors.
Again, good job.

[Fresh Baked Printing]

Do you ever print just plain 'ole spot colors?

[killergraphics]

Not very often.

I did had a couple 1 colors last week...man I miss those drinking jobs.

[coopersdesign]

I really like this. One comment: It seems like the halftones on the darker shirt came out a little muddy. Is this because of the white underneath? Does anyone know how to help with this issue? Seems like the more colors that go over white, the more it acts like a skating rink.
Ann

[coopersdesign]

I really like this. One comment: It seems like the halftones on the darker shirt came out a little muddy. Is this because of the white underneath? Does anyone know how to help with this issue? Seems like the more colors that go over white, the more it acts like a skating rink.
Ann

[killergraphics]

I should have backed the squeegee pressure off some on the black ink on the dark shirts.

It was only a few darks so I did not, just changed the speed.

[alan802]

I really like this. One comment: It seems like the halftones on the darker shirt came out a little muddy. Is this because of the white underneath? Does anyone know how to help with this issue? Seems like the more colors that go over white, the more it acts like a skating rink.
Ann

Higher mesh count, lighter pressure, faster print speed, higher tension screens, lower off contact, the halftone percentage, ink formulation, those are a few of the things I would look at.  When printing hafltones on top of a white UB, there is a threshold of screens that can "step on" the halftones without completely muddying them up.  The better your variables are, the more you can print wet on wet.  Some shops can't print another color on top of a wet halftone, while others could probably do 4-5 subsequent wet on wet colors, lot's of things go into it.  I hate printing those jobs with multiple halftone screens that don't blend with each other and they need to remain sharp and clear, sometimes there's no way but to flash more than you'd like.

[Dottonedan]

Some shops can't print another color on top of a wet halftone, while others could probably do 4-5 subsequent wet on wet colors, lot's of things go into it.

I often never think about the differences between my experiences from most others. Most all my hands on experience had been form the side of large shops. At those shops, it was standard practice and expected to have everything print wet on wet after the base white. We printed 12 colors after the base white was flashed. Sometimes we would use a cool down station and other times not. Most of our jobs were using a base white and then a flash and then 10 colors.  about 2 out of 10 or 12 jobs would include an additional flash in the 6th head but we could move it around depending on the jobs (if needed).

I myself, like stepping on it so many times that the halftones smear together just enough that it starts to look more photo real than graphic looking. When doing that, you do increase the amount of times you need to stop the press and wide down...but that can be 1 time in a two thousand unit run. I think that's pretty good.
That's a result of just what Alan802 said.

Higher mesh count, lighter pressure, faster print speed, higher tension screens, lower off contact, the halftone percentage, ink formulation, those are a few of the things.

[sportsshoppe]

Dan I would like to print more wet on wet but have a problem with popping even with silicone spray.... What mesh count art they using to print that many colors without conflict of the popping or ink build up... Thanks for any advice.

[Dottonedan]

Dan I would like to print more wet on wet but have a problem with popping even with silicone spray.... What mesh count art they using to print that many colors without conflict of the popping or ink build up... Thanks for any advice.

300 mesh typically. Some 350 mesh and also down to 230's.  All at work hardened high tension mesh on newman roller frames.

[Donnie]

I always print with at least 305s on the top colors. Finding the right mix of squeegee pressure and print speed is often a delicate dance. I can usually tweak it to not have to flash but on some jobs...there is no other way but to flash.

[Dottonedan]

I always print with at least 305s on the top colors. Finding the right mix of squeegee pressure and print speed is often a delicate dance. I can usually tweak it to not have to flash but on some jobs...there is no other way but to flash.

I had to laugh today on the phone at your Donnie-ism's. I hear them from you all the time, but the "light as a popcorn fart" was over the top.  LOL.