Color fading in screen

[Pangea]

I've been working on a two color (red and gold) discharge print on black Canvas 3001s and am having some color issues. The first dozen or so prints look perfect but as I go on the red starts to turn almost maroon after being cured. I've run this job twice now and both times I'm unhappy with the results and am not going to deliver them how they are. If anyone has any suggestions let me know, here's how I'm running them:

230 mesh
cryocoat emulsion
Custom mixed PMS 1375 (CCI base, matsui pigments)
RFU Green Galaxy Mars Red
Both activated at 6-7%
Print PMS 1375-->Flash-->Print Red-->Heat press cure @345 for 20-30 seconds

I have a strong feeling the Green Galaxy Mars Red has to high of a pigment load and is messing with the way it discharges but, since I've already tried this twice, I don't know if there is something else I'm missing.

[CBCB]

Not a ton of experience here but I bet the first piece of advice will be to lower your activator % on the Red. Sounds like the less amount you can use, the better for tricky pigments like Red.
I’m sure some DC pros will chime in soon!


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[RICK STEFANICK]

That is correct. reds never need more than 4%..

[chubsetc]

If I am correct the Green Galaxy RFU colors are not discharge inks but standard waterbase inks not meant for discharge.  Try mixing the red color (high pigment load) with your discharge base and pigments (3-4% activator) and save the GG RFU inks for standard water based prints.

[Pangea]

Thanks guys! I'll mix up the red, use less activator, and post later this week to report how it went.

[Pangea]

Here's an update, thanks again guys!

[ericheartsu]

Also, for a blocky image like that, 230 seems a little high for the DC.

[3Deep]

Discharge here get printed thru any mesh below 150 if it's standard mesh.... S mesh I would go a little higher count.

[RICK STEFANICK]

Also, for a blocky image like that, 230 seems a little high for the DC.

Great point!! I think people try too hard to get results with higher mesh when a squeegee can change everything. We run waterbase discharge on 90% of what we print here on 4 autos and our standard mesh is 160-200 on everything. some 230's depending on the graphic/ garment etc. Its all reative. Whites usually 160 as CC discharge differently than say a canvas 3001. most small image areas and colors 160- 200. always 70/90/70 squeegies. In fact I have removed everything else.

[mimosatexas]

I love 180Smesh for DC, 135S for white DC, as long as the art allows of course.

[ericheartsu]

I love 180Smesh for DC, 135S for white DC, as long as the art allows of course.

135 is great, but i like 150 a bit more.

[Pangea]

Also, for a blocky image like that, 230 seems a little high for the DC.

I agree but it's what I had free at the time. I only have around 12 useable screens and 4 of them are 305s I use for sticker printing.

[tonypep]

On jobs like the Red Sox shirt we run a DC/UB on 280 no problem

[mimosatexas]

150 would probably work just as well, but I honestly skipped that mesh in my shop.  I can one hit white plastisol with a higher eom 135S, but the 150S doesnt quite clear with the whites I've tried without increasing the pressure just enough to make the white opacity lower than I can accept.  I basically only have 135S, 180S, and 225S with a handful of 280T for certain things (like black plastisol transfers and some sim process-y prints).  Also printing manually though still...