How would You print this? (White T)

[sportsshoppe]

Clipart was purchased by customer...

[Dottonedan]

white shirts?  oh,  i see in title.


cmyk.   305 mesh. 55lpi

[sportsshoppe]

That was what I was thinking Dan, it is some type of painting. I believe it will be forgiving with the print also. Thanks

[JBLUE]

8 color sim process would look way better. Especially if its a smaller run and you need to replicate it consistently run after run.

[Dottonedan]

Thats the key question.  Would this be a repeat order?  What is the qunatity?


Low quantity, do CMYK


Large quantity, and repeat orders, do sim process simply for the repeat ability. Still, 8 seems a bit high for white shirts.

[Full-SpectrumSeparator]

Clipart was purchased by customer...

6-Hues Interlock...

No Base, no Highlight White.

Merge Blues, print with Brite Blue.

Merge Magenta into Red screen.

Merge Green into both Yellow and Blue screens so they overprint or interlock the green separately with yellow and blue. (There is really hardly any true green, those greens you see are made mostly with black and yellow).

Linearized print dark to light flashing between colors; or print dark to light flashing and use the highlight white last if not linearized for loss/gain.   

4 total screens if linearized decently for printing on white shirts and still dark to light flashing if you can...

1.Black
(Flash)
2.Brite Blue
(Flash)
3.Brite Red
(Flash)
4.Lemon Yellow


Or if not linearized but decent enough screens  then flash after the yellow and use the highlight white as a 5th screen to push your tints back after they gained too much.   Color blends will push-gain in the right direction automatically when they print dark to light and gain.

Also if linearized for light to dark gain, you could go wet on wet,  with Lemon Yellow, Brite Red, Brite Blue, then Black... that would work better on an auto in most smaller configurations with no or few flashes.

Either CMY or those 4 screens, but not CMYK that is making it a lot harder than it needs to be, and still what profile would you use and what angle for the CMY and would you invert the black?    The 4 sim-process screens would make a great print,  much easier to control and produce than CMY or CMYK, and then going up from there you could add some custom greens or print with the bright green screen from the seps, or add a brown muted-orange tone for the majority of those ranges in the image, would only be 5 or 6 then.    I don't see 8 sim process colors unless you start adding more tints and shades from there, like using a grey... whatever is actually there you would keep adding to simply increase your level of detail and making harder blends or larger areas of smooth difficult tones more consistent as their own screens.     

Basically the only thing different from using a 1-click separation on this is the merging down of colors, but that can also be it's own automated separation type that happens from starting one routine and just includes the merging steps... you can build in automatic % tolerances to separations so that if a color is below a certain threshold it merges to the other colors... and also with custom-tone-mapping you can have it simply pick out whatever the best colors are to print with, or set your inks and have it separate based on the ink values...  either way its all just gamut-mapping from your original to your intended # of colors or the least needed to make the "acceptable print" or the most you would want for a very high level-of-detail high-end print.... even seemingly custom colors are all there mathematically in the original art image and can be found automatically by many existing color-mapping algorithms.     The only issues you might want to watch for with this art is taking the black text and after you upsample and blur a bit, threshold it make sure its just solid smooth black with clean pixel edges that don't become halftones, and with the edges of jpg distortion around the white areas it can end up in various halftones... you could force light-tints to white, adjust the original with just a few minutes of preparation for that kind of stuff and that's really the only kind of enhancements I would make, but sometimes that stuff doesn't even expose or show up,  even antialiased edges don't show up from typical shirt-viewing distances... it could still be a quality-approved shirt print with those issues, it depends on how much you want to enhance, clean up, and improve upon the original with art cleanup and possibly more colors in the separation and print for greater detail etc,  but it could also just be a reproduction of the original at print-size and the customer may sign off on it, like the antialiasing and jpg distortion could be something they never notice or care about.... you can still sep and print it exactly as it is... sometimes screens don't resolve certain details and automatically smooth-out pixel edges and pinholes of the tiny jpg artifact tints could overexpose so really the idea that "garbage in - garbage out" is some sort of absolute rule is non-sense.   You can have automated separations that improve originals and create garbage-in, awesome-out printing results, it is not about needing someone to "vectorize" things or a special advanced "high end" color separator to work some sort of magic on the image.   There are plenty of tools available to both do these things on your own with more or less automation to take out the repetitive steps, or just learning how to do it and write one's own automations.    I've attached a photoshop script for the 6-hue interlocking separation at 55 lpi, round dots,  and one file goes to channels, the other to layers.      If you want different LPI or dot-shape, you can open up the script file in notepad and find the right text code and do a find/replace-all function to change the LPI or the dot-shapes to customize.   

It is very simple from my perspective, easy to print this even if someone had no previous separation experience, but with the right tools for the job it would be a piece of cake especially on a manual.  Obviously it would be good having screenmaking and registration/printing experience knowing you can at least get a decent range of halftones and register them, print well and consistently and with good pressures and angles and flashing etc, on the manual this would be the easiest dark to light with flashing.   Auto is a different story for many reasons but still can work out good with little to no overkill getting into all the technical variables.   It is not necessary to make amazing prints out of any art, using common sense and logic, some math and color science with the right tried-and-true methods applied then you end up with lots of control to adjust things on press anyway, and not have to ever go back to make new screens or "tweak the seps".   

[sportsshoppe]

sorry for the long wait on reply, Dan it is going to be 5 doz and no reorder. I am interested in the interlock but I can say Spectrum your talking Wayyyyyy over my head.... But I am going to look at the file you attached. Heck I may give it a whirl.

[sportsshoppe]

I tried to open the PS files but with no luck, my PS may be too old to handle them. Thanks

[Sbrem]

I tried to open the PS files but with no luck, my PS may be too old to handle them. Thanks

I believe they are the "actions" he used from his Toolkit. I've tried to use his Toolkit, and downloaded it when he offered it up a few months ago, but can't find anything on how to use it, downloading was pretty much as far as I got. (His posts are way too long for for this addled brain...)

Steve

update: they are scripts, d-oh!

[sportsshoppe]

I tried to open the PS files but with no luck, my PS may be too old to handle them. Thanks

I believe they are the "actions" he used from his Toolkit. I've tried to use his Toolkit, and downloaded it when he offered it up a few months ago, but can't find anything on how to use it, downloading was pretty much as far as I got. (His posts are way too long for for this addled brain...)

Steve

Oh Yeah, lost me in second paragraph lol but he may have hit a home run with others. I'm not a hater because I don't understand

[mk162]

DTG more than likely.  Detail would be impossible to beat, unless your Serj.

[sportsshoppe]

MK if I were closer to you.....I'd be calling you for the work. Times like these DTG would be nice.

[sportsshoppe]

Not the best picture but the print came out good to me and most of all the Customer was ecstatic . A special shout out to Dan for his assistance!!

[sportsshoppe]

try this one.... busy day

[3Deep]

Nice print, and white shirts at that LOL