How to print?

[Grape Ape]

This is easy. With plastisol, I would find the background logo color then thin it out with reducer about 80 percent reducer to 20 percent ink. Then print that with a 230 screen. Then print the rest as usual since your said the customer wants only the background logo to be softhand.

Would not use a ink color close to the shirt substraight. It would only be good for that one color shirt and possibly colors close to it. Better to have a ink color that can work across several shirt colors to reduce or eliminate ink color changes. Seen it many times before where customer comes back wanting different colored shirts for same art. And like Printficient said to use a curable product no matter what you do or you will be losing a customer and buying some shirts back.

[tonypep]

We've been incorporating tint/shade technique applications for some of our clothing lines for some 15 ys. Went from strictly tonal to tonal elements with full color. So a Resort buyer can buy 8 pieces of 6 garment colors and hang it as a tonal group without production having  to pay for color changes.

[Orion]

Rick blogged about this on the Ink Kitchen yesterday.

I used to read that blog. Lot's of great info but I didn't care for the politics in the mix...

[ZooCity]

This look is one area where plastisol can work better than WB/DC in my opinion.  It's more consistent across various shirt colors.  We have a client that does the clear plasti print across a ton of colors for different looks and prefers plasisol.  It's a nice approach and runs smooth with clear plasti.  WB/DC would be a shitshow given the wide variety of fabrics mixed into all their orders. 

We still use Wilflex Fashion Soft for this but I agree, it fibrilates like mad after so many washings.  I'll try that Primer Clear out, thanks for the tip Colin. 

[tonypep]

Antique white DC w/ tonal binder. On Raspberry map is dk pink etc