Author Topic: Printing metallics  (Read 1497 times)

Offline redwoodtees

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 126
Printing metallics
« on: July 14, 2015, 01:47:12 PM »
I am experimenting with metallics (I am using Virus clear metallic base). The ink has the consistency of cake frosting, and seems impossible to work with on (manual) press. I managed to print a few shirts, but I felt completely incompetent while doing it. The ink seems to want to go everywhere except through the screen. I was having to make several passes to get the image area completely flooded -- I feel like the trick is getting just the right angle and pressure on the flood stroke, but I could not figure out what that was. Granted, I am a new printer, and not very good at printing any kind of ink, but this stuff was just impossible. Are there any specific tips or tricks for printing metallics, or is it just a matter of practice? I have un-fancy basic single-durometer squeegees, so the first thing I was thinking of doing was trying a better squeegee. Is there a specific squeegee which is better for metallics?

TIA for your help

Chris


Online ericheartsu

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3540
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2015, 01:54:52 PM »
what mesh count are you printing through? That's a big thing too!
Night Owls
Waterbased screen printing and promo products.
www.nightowlsprint.com 281.741.7285

Offline Frog

  • Administrator
  • Ludicrous Speed Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13980
  • Docendo discimus
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #2 on: July 14, 2015, 02:00:54 PM »
and what mesh count does Virus recommend? What powder did you use, theirs or something from Crescent?
That rug really tied the room together, did it not?

Offline redwoodtees

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 126
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #3 on: July 14, 2015, 02:14:43 PM »
I am using 110 mesh (the coarsest I have at the moment). Virus says "up to 137 mesh", but they recommend 83 mesh. I am ordering some coarser s-mesh statics to play with. I am using their powder.

I feel like my issue is more basic -- I seem to be having trouble just getting the ink to move around on the screen. To get the image area flooded in one stroke I had a ridiculous amount of ink in the screen -- which was of course getting everywhere. Maybe I just need more practice.



Online ericheartsu

  • Gonzo Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 3540
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2015, 02:50:32 PM »
I am using 110 mesh (the coarsest I have at the moment). Virus says "up to 137 mesh", but they recommend 83 mesh. I am ordering some coarser s-mesh statics to play with. I am using their powder.

I feel like my issue is more basic -- I seem to be having trouble just getting the ink to move around on the screen. To get the image area flooded in one stroke I had a ridiculous amount of ink in the screen -- which was of course getting everywhere. Maybe I just need more practice.

110 is a little high,but yeah it does seem like something else might be the issue
Night Owls
Waterbased screen printing and promo products.
www.nightowlsprint.com 281.741.7285

Offline Frog

  • Administrator
  • Ludicrous Speed Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 13980
  • Docendo discimus
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2015, 03:06:41 PM »
When I was a mere tadpole, before the advent of shimmers, I used Union Gold and Silver which somehow were able to display the worst characteristics of inks that were both too thin and too thick!
Both sticky and difficult to get through the mesh with a squeegee, but flowing everywhere if left to sit in the screen for any time.

On the other hand, using Unions Clear for Metallic base allowed me to use any of the plethora of shades of powder available from Crescent. This was especially useful when I also did matching signs or other flat stock with the appropriate base. (Powder must be handled very carefully though)

Add to that the tarnishing associated with true metallic powders, and I was sold on their plastic alternatives when they arrived, especially after dropping flat stock printing, and losing the need to match different ink types.
That rug really tied the room together, did it not?

Offline jamiem

  • Verified/Junior
  • **
  • Posts: 44
Re: Printing metallics
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2015, 05:28:05 PM »
I have a couple of things for you.  I would suggest that you use 90/71 mesh, it works great for us.  Next, it sounds like your ink might be dried up a bit.  Virus has many additives in their system.  They have a retarder that should help thin the ink out and give it more open time.  I would use 5-8% depending on the temperature in your shop.  They also have a reducer you can use if the retarder doesn't decrease the viscosity enough for you, a couple of a percent should help a lot.  Use a 50 to 60 shore squeegee.  I also find it easier to clear a screen, when printing any metallic inks, to print an ink without flake under the metallic ink, flash it, then print the metallic on top.  Any ink will work, just get a good surface down to print on top of.