Tough time getting coverage one white

[LoneWolf2]

Hey folks.
I've been running into a problem here lately when printing on white shirts with a good ink coverage.
Been doing a lot of the Comfort Colors white (which seem to be super absorbent), printing spot colors through 230's.
Stroke speed is a medium/slow speed, around 50psi on each head, squeegee (triple duro) at around 20*, and can't get a good lay down with a single stroke.
If I double hit, it looks great, but surely I should be able to do it in one stroke.
Do any of y'all have any tips on getting good coverage with a one hit?

[blue moon]

Hey folks.
I've been running into a problem here lately when printing on white shirts with a good ink coverage.
Been doing a lot of the Comfort Colors white (which seem to be super absorbent), printing spot colors through 230's.
Stroke speed is a medium/slow speed, around 50psi on each head, squeegee (triple duro) at around 20*, and can't get a good lay down with a single stroke.
If I double hit, it looks great, but surely I should be able to do it in one stroke.
Do any of y'all have any tips on getting good coverage with a one hit?

we used to with static screens. After switching to high tension it went away.
The ink deposit is dictated by the mesh count and emulsion thickness. S mesh has thinner threads and thus wider opening; more ink can get through. Any mesh that is not properly tensioned will have smaller openings and will thus block more ink from passing through. Emulsion thickness is a little more tricky as the really tall emulsion deposit can have more resistance. So even the there might be more ink in the openings, it mgt have harder time getting through. What will help the deposit is the temperature and proper speed of the squeegee. Stirring and warming up the ink will make it print much better (I have viscosity readings for the testing we did here in house and can show you the numbers. Get the ink to 90 degrees and it will flow much, much better). Additionally, try printing at medium speed at least. Faster printing make the ink runnier/thinner as it goes through the mesh and should help.

pierre

[Underbase37]

People don't seem to like hearing this for some reason but, if you can hold the detail you need on a lower mesh, drop your mesh count.

Pierre got it with the open area. Tension, mesh type & off contact play a big part in proper shearing.

Murphy37

[alan802]

A single stroke color through a standard mesh count 230 on a white shirt will most likely not have enough ink down to cover the shirt fibers.  We've tried it many times in the past and especially when I was trying to be like all the other shops and using the same mesh counts that I was reading about on the forums.  I'm definitely not against high mesh screens, we use them often, but far too many shops are using way too high of mesh counts for things that don't/shouldn't need it and this is the outcome.  I know that many shops would prefer to double stroke a 195 or 230 for some reason versus single stroking a 150/48 and the movement to use high mesh screens the last 5-7 years has always perplexed me due to the extra work/effort it takes to get the same ink deposit a lower mesh could do.

We have 20 120/54's, 25 150/48's, 20 180/48's and 10 90/71's and the number of 225's, 280's and 305's is roughly 1/4 of our total screen inventory.  Then we have other mesh counts I didn't mention to fill in some of the gaps.  Some might think that printing through a 90/71 or 120/54 is going to have a very thick ink deposit but a single stroke through those mesh counts does not give a bullet proof print, but it does allow enough ink to be put on the shirt to actually get 100% opacity with single strokes on darks and that's why we use them.  The goal is always the same and there is no way to reach the goal of 100% opacity without putting enough ink down to accomplish the goal, yet I see so many shops wondering why their ink deposits are so thin and printing on darks is troublesome for them.  Don't be afraid of low mesh counts, trust me, they are your friend if used properly. 

[Printficient]

If applicable I would recommend a double bevel squeegee.

[LoneWolf2]

Thanks for all of the insight on this. Looks like y'all hit the nail on the head.
I'm currently using statics, and it was cold in my shop, so i'm going to say that attributed to the problems.
I did however just get in a few dozen M3 roller frames and a roller master.
I've got a total of 36 frames, and need to order mesh/panels for them.
What distribution of mesh sizes would y'all recommend? I do a lot of spot color stuff, with a few sim process/4cp thrown in every now and then.

[3Deep]

Give me a high tension 110 or 137/158 and I'm in heaven, I will agree with Alan sometimes you just have to break from the crowd and do what works for you.  Your mesh count might be way to high if your not getting a nice cover on white plus some of these shirts are so thin now you can't help but see thru the ink if you don't won't a very heavy hand.

[LoneWolf2]

If I weren't in a rush I would've gone with a 200 for them (6 color wet on wet print), but didn't have that option unfortunately. Oh well. I know for next time!