Maxopaque vs Ultrasoft type inks

[Gilligan]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

[Frog]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

Okay, it used to be the way it almost all was done (on 110's even)
In a pinch, some even stocked mostly the Opaque colors and based them down for lights (like I do with the Mixopake system)
But, IMO, a white base allows for less total ink and brighter colors, especially with a problem color like yellow.

Since I do many very short runs (like a dozen) for folks who want to keep costs down,  that helps make the decision to KISS

[blue moon]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

MAXO with PFP will not be nearly as nice (vibrant or bright) as Ultrasoft with ubase, but it does the job on occasion. We stock both of those in addition to the Unimatch which is our main go to ink. Something to remember is that you can ubase with poly ink and print Ultrasoft on top, while there are only one or two lo bleed Maxo inks so you can't really use them on blends or poly garments.

pierre

[Gilligan]

This matches my gut thoughts, and we don't have the room to really stock multiples of all the inks in this shop.  So I guess we will keep it the way it is.

[jvanick]

Printing maxo pfp on a manual is one thing. .. trying to get that to be consistent on a auto, for us at least, has been a totally different story.

Of course with trilock, if it's over 48 pieces,  we haven't done a pfp job yet.  So much better results and less messing around.

*we haven't used union for this, only wilflex super opaque,  but I'm sure the same principles apply.

[GaryG]

Yeah I love Wilflex, but the Maxo has always seemed to have Super Opaque beat...

[screenprintguy]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

MAXO with PFP will not be nearly as nice (vibrant or bright) as Ultrasoft with ubase, but it does the job on occasion. We stock both of those in addition to the Unimatch which is our main go to ink. Something to remember is that you can ubase with poly ink and print Ultrasoft on top, while there are only one or two lo bleed Maxo inks so you can't really use them on blends or poly garments.

pierre

Agree 100%. We have a few favorite standard colors that we've been using since day one, Union's Maxoqaque Royal blue, Peacock blue, Scarlet Red, and Lemon Yellow. They will cover dark garments with heavy pfp, buuuuuut, we I have found is like Pierre said, you can't beat them over a white base. I actually have these colors mixed down with Union curable reducer, 5% and use them wet on wet all the time and they are awesome because of the opaque nature of the inks. I use the Maxo Scarlett Red with reducer all the time in sim process with no build up issues, but you have to get that reduced just right 5% and it's money!!! Great inks, but you should still shot a W UB and then print these as a finish and have a seriously nice spot color with a great finished look. They have a nice finish after curing. We stick with what's not broken right? I got some of these ideas with the union mixes from an old Impressions article long time ago that, if I'm correct Mr. Kitson wrote up.

[brandon]

If you are doing cotton have you tried a discharge underbase? Really makes that plastisol pop and softer hand. Just my opinion and experience in our shop.

[blue moon]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

MAXO with PFP will not be nearly as nice (vibrant or bright) as Ultrasoft with ubase, but it does the job on occasion. We stock both of those in addition to the Unimatch which is our main go to ink. Something to remember is that you can ubase with poly ink and print Ultrasoft on top, while there are only one or two lo bleed Maxo inks so you can't really use them on blends or poly garments.

pierre

Agree 100%. We have a few favorite standard colors that we've been using since day one, Union's Maxoqaque Royal blue, Peacock blue, Scarlet Red, and Lemon Yellow. They will cover dark garments with heavy pfp, buuuuuut, we I have found is like Pierre said, you can't beat them over a white base. I actually have these colors mixed down with Union curable reducer, 5% and use them wet on wet all the time and they are awesome because of the opaque nature of the inks. I use the Maxo Scarlett Red with reducer all the time in sim process with no build up issues, but you have to get that reduced just right 5% and it's money!!! Great inks, but you should still shot a W UB and then print these as a finish and have a seriously nice spot color with a great finished look. They have a nice finish after curing. We stick with what's not broken right? I got some of these ideas with the union mixes from an old Impressions article long time ago that, if I'm correct Mr. Kitson wrote up.

try the flow additive instead of the reducer. It goes in at 1% or so and will make them flow better and print WOW better without reducing the opacity. I think the code is 9070.

pierre

[screenprintguy]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

MAXO with PFP will not be nearly as nice (vibrant or bright) as Ultrasoft with ubase, but it does the job on occasion. We stock both of those in addition to the Unimatch which is our main go to ink. Something to remember is that you can ubase with poly ink and print Ultrasoft on top, while there are only one or two lo bleed Maxo inks so you can't really use them on blends or poly garments.

pierre

Agree 100%. We have a few favorite standard colors that we've been using since day one, Union's Maxoqaque Royal blue, Peacock blue, Scarlet Red, and Lemon Yellow. They will cover dark garments with heavy pfp, buuuuuut, we I have found is like Pierre said, you can't beat them over a white base. I actually have these colors mixed down with Union curable reducer, 5% and use them wet on wet all the time and they are awesome because of the opaque nature of the inks. I use the Maxo Scarlett Red with reducer all the time in sim process with no build up issues, but you have to get that reduced just right 5% and it's money!!! Great inks, but you should still shot a W UB and then print these as a finish and have a seriously nice spot color with a great finished look. They have a nice finish after curing. We stick with what's not broken right? I got some of these ideas with the union mixes from an old Impressions article long time ago that, if I'm correct Mr. Kitson wrote up.

try the flow additive instead of the reducer. It goes in at 1% or so and will make them flow better and print WOW better without reducing the opacity. I think the code is 9070.

pierre

NIIIIIIICE!!! Thanks for the tip Pierre!!

[blue moon]

So we are discussing the idea of having Maxopaque colors so that we can just do PFP vs undebase flash top coat.

Sometimes it's nice not to have to do an underbase on a single color job, but then for multi color jobs it's a moot point.

MAXO with PFP will not be nearly as nice (vibrant or bright) as Ultrasoft with ubase, but it does the job on occasion. We stock both of those in addition to the Unimatch which is our main go to ink. Something to remember is that you can ubase with poly ink and print Ultrasoft on top, while there are only one or two lo bleed Maxo inks so you can't really use them on blends or poly garments.

pierre

Agree 100%. We have a few favorite standard colors that we've been using since day one, Union's Maxoqaque Royal blue, Peacock blue, Scarlet Red, and Lemon Yellow. They will cover dark garments with heavy pfp, buuuuuut, we I have found is like Pierre said, you can't beat them over a white base. I actually have these colors mixed down with Union curable reducer, 5% and use them wet on wet all the time and they are awesome because of the opaque nature of the inks. I use the Maxo Scarlett Red with reducer all the time in sim process with no build up issues, but you have to get that reduced just right 5% and it's money!!! Great inks, but you should still shot a W UB and then print these as a finish and have a seriously nice spot color with a great finished look. They have a nice finish after curing. We stick with what's not broken right? I got some of these ideas with the union mixes from an old Impressions article long time ago that, if I'm correct Mr. Kitson wrote up.

try the flow additive instead of the reducer. It goes in at 1% or so and will make them flow better and print WOW better without reducing the opacity. I think the code is 9070.

pierre

NIIIIIIICE!!! Thanks for the tip Pierre!!

you are welcome!
the code is 9020, it is listed as MIXO now, but it's probably the same thing. Used to be called "build up buster" and was used to print simulated process before the WOW inks were designed. My guess is ultrasoft is probably MAXO with some of this stuff in it and another minor change or two. . .

pierre

[tpitman]

[Agree 100%. We have a few favorite standard colors that we've been using since day one, Union's Maxoqaque Royal blue, Peacock blue, Scarlet Red, and Lemon Yellow.

Union's Maxopake Royal Blue was the reason I switched to QCM's Royal Blue. Could be the stuff from Tubelite in their main warehouse in sunny Apopka had been sitting in a hot spot, but I've thrown away or sent back more Maxopake Royal Blue than I've printed. The stuff was like tar.. Switched to QCM's XOL 503 and it was far and away a better ink. When Roeder Industries didn't have it in stock when I needed it the right then, I went with QCM WOW Royal Blue and it's almost as opaque at the XO. That's what I use for P/F/P, even on black. Very easy to print.

That said, Union's Ultrasoft colors are excellent.

[Ripcord]

I do use Maxopake for one color jobs on dark fabric...That's what it's for. While you may be able to achieve "slightly" brighter prints with a white underbase, if you do a good job with the Maxopake, you can get it to the point where the average person wouldn't notice a difference. I don't hesitate to P/F/P three times, and even a fourth time if I think I can get it to look better. Like Frog, I do a lot of small to medium runs, and the extra flashing takes way less time than burning two screens and getting them into register.

Recently, I've begun buying all my colors in Maxopake (the colors that it comes in) and adding extender when I print on light garments. You can add a whole lot of extender, almost 50/50 and save a lot of money.

[Screened Gear]

I buy mostly maxo inks. I then add soft hand base 50/50 to make ultrasoft inks. It's cheaper and you have control this way.