New Auto User Having Trouble With WB Discharge Drying-In

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

This might not be the most correct sub-forum to post this in, sorry.

I'm used to a heavy Back-Flood on my manual. I can't figure how to make this old Gauntlet Revolver print discharge.

A common job for us would be one or two colors of discharge ink, then some High Density Gel applied for foil adhesive--PFP'd.

With a furnace blowing dry air in the winter, it doesn't take very long for mesh to dry in BAD...especially with no back flood. There has to be a solution.

[jvanick]

have to tried to set your head position to 'front' vs 'rear' that should keep it flooded between prints?

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

I don't believe I have that setting available, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

My Gauntlet Revolver is a 1993 model GT-8. I probably should have stated that.

Stan

[jsheridan]

If your press does not have the option for front position then you're going to keep having this problem.

[tonypep]

I have a pic of it somewhere but I don't think he has it. A good 3 person crew can clip along quite quickly with no problems though without it. We have the feature on all the autos but do not use it. Common mis-statement. If everything is dialed in its simply not necessary.

[tonypep]

If your press does not have the option for front position then you're going to keep having this problem.

Sorry but not necessarily

[Orion]

Getting the HD gel down thicker so you don't have to pfp is one solution. Anyone ever try to mount the squeegee onto the flood bar mount and swap the lock nut to the front hole to reverse the angle adjustment. Mount the flood bar onto the squeegee mount. Downside would be the squeegee pushing down hard on the mesh when it parks in the back, but the screen would be flooded.

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Getting the HD gel down thicker so you don't have to pfp is one solution.

Yes, I think that's a good idea, and I suspect this is also one of Tony's "dialed in" deals that might get him in trouble to post, wink, wink.

I'm so "over" using the manual when it isn't necessary, that I'd really try just about anything.

We have a retail area where our Wichita State Shocker Fanwear is on display, and WOW do the wimmen types like that foil.

Suggest a mesh and tension for a single pass HD Gel plate and I'll sure try it.

A little less gloss for the foil wouldn't be a deal breaker, and we could always "distress" many of the designs.

I've tried manually printing a single pass through 110 (unknown standard diameter threads) for gel, and it just wasn't consistent. But it was 2 over 2 sharp edge emulsion, my standard go to coating method. So.

[Orion]

Suggest a mesh and tension for a single pass HD Gel plate and I'll sure try it.

My suggestion is to refer to the manufacturer's tech data sheet, which probably reads...

24-110 mesh high tension
60 single duro or 70/90/70
2on2 round edge or high dens cap film
sloooow print stroke

...just my guess.


 

[Inkworks]

Two approaches to inks that dry on-screen, be it water based, or solvent based.

1 - Keep a heavy flood to keep the image area wet. The challenges of this are with lower mesh counts or S/LX meshes you can get bleed through if left flooded too long.

2 - Clear the ink from the mesh completely and leave it unflooded. If there is no ink in the image area, it can't dry-in. Challenges of this include run-back of ink over the image after a print if it sits too long, as well as the fact that while you may get 99% of the ink out of the image area, there is always some residue that can dry, usually it will re-wet of it's own accord during printing, but if left to build-up repeatedly, it can dry-in the image area and eventually block areas of the image.

The keys to success with either method usually center on getting up and running and keeping it running at a steady pace. If you choose method #2 a little retarder is beneficial. If you get the ink at a good flash-off mix, you should have a little lee-way with your print speed and be able to take the odd break without fear of dry-in.

In no way should you have a furnace blowing on your screens, that spells trouble. Keep heat and flashes to a minimum and make sure everything is up to N.O.T. before you start, and have your inks adjusted to run at that temperature.

Once you get some experience and learn what flash-off levels of the ink work for you it's actually not that bad, and you should have some leeway, but running steady is always the best bet.

[tonypep]

#2 Down. Its a myth about the keep it flooded, at least mostly. Unless you have a heavy flood which means the ink is probably too thick. Visiually and from a production standpoint if you keep the foil as an accent and distress it you won't have to fight that screen as much and can turn the flash off. Use a decent space heater and stop blowing that freakin hot air all over the place

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

<snip> Use a decent space heater and stop blowing that freakin hot air all over the place

Like an infra red. Is that what you mean?

I've got some of those. Propane, top mounted. Hmmm.... Hadn't thought about that.

Truth is, except for about 6 weeks out of the year, it isn't much an issue, once the platens and the conveyor get warm. Not in Kansas, anyways. In Minnesota, it might be harder to pull that off.

[tonypep]

Some use heated water theres a whole bunch of different types just use good quality so you don't burn the place down!

[Itsa Little CrOoked]

Once stuff gets all warmed up in the morning, I can probably just kick off the forced air.

I'll try that. And a team of 3 peeps. We got 'em.  I'll just have to lead (drag) them back to the dungeon for those jobs. I'll promise them Starbucks.

[Inkworks]

You could also look at putting up a baffle to keep the hot furnace air from blowing on the screens.