TSB
screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Prosperi-Tees on October 02, 2013, 11:54:34 PM
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getting the auto setup next week and I am going to use the same white ink I have been using which is Rutland Street Fighter cotton and LB and see how it goes. I like it printing on the manual although I prefer using the LB over the cotton. So if I am not happy with the performance on the auto what should I try? These are my main concerns:
1) fiber matte down
2) fast flash with low tack
3) a matte finish
4) soft hand
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You want to know an alternative to the SF white or how to modify it?
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Man, we grabbed a sample of Excalibur Arctic white and so far... Wow!
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Tell me more
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My question is premature as I have not printed with the SF on the auto yet. So I guess I am asking what should I expect with it. What has worked in modifying it in your shop and if you don't use SF what do you use that gives you the characteristics I am looking for in my original post.
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Tell me more
I have limited experience but from union cotton white we moved to Miami smooth, this arctic is smoother and prints better... Pretty awesome stuff.
Now I will hint at a secret white that we are supposed to get a sample of that may even be better... No time frame nor even a name... But it seemed nice when I played with it... Will let you know when we get our sample and run test in our own shop.
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Double Bevels or Smiling Jacks 8) 8)
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Yeah a Double Bevel will help on some inks not all, I use them on my white's to get more ink down, on white ink I've great success with WM plastic Bright White, flashes fast and covers good.
D
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The best white hands down for that machine is Quick White. Use S-mesh and your going to be amazed at what you can do. When the Rutland rep was at my shop a few weeks ago even he said they cannot touch it with what they have for whites. I use Rutlands C3 system for colors and for him to be honest when looking at our bases that went a long way. The other thing you will love is now you can have a smoothing screen right behind the flash. Makes a huge difference even if your underprint is already top notch. You can use higher mesh counts for the base which equals much less deposit with the same opacity as the average bullet proof patch which most consider ok. It is like printing on glass when you do it right...... ;)
You can buy other whites for less money, but in the end you pay more....... much more than you think.
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I don't have an auto, but for manual printing I have absolutely been loving Triangle Poly Excel White. It is creamier than a lot of colors, so for manual printing it is way easier on your body. More importantly though, I can print it with a 160 or 230 mesh and p/f/p and it is 100% white, no fibers. The opacity in general is really awesome. Also has given me way fewer headaches as an underbase on everything that can't be discharged. It has essentially no tack.
Anyone else use this ink? It is quite a bit more expensive than other whites, but the ease of use and the way it prints makes it worth it.
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JBLUE said it. Quick White is where it's at if you want all of those attributes. You'll pay for it over other whites but you'll get what yer looking for.
Quick is probably the most consistent, least problematic ink to print in our shop. That's saying something when the easy going ink is a HO, low bleed white.
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Tell me more
I have limited experience but from union cotton white we moved to Miami smooth, this arctic is smoother and prints better... Pretty awesome stuff.
Now I will hint at a secret white that we are supposed to get a sample of that may even be better... No time frame nor even a name... But it seemed nice when I played with it... Will let you know when we get our sample and run test in our own shop.
Gills,
How much more opacity was there with Arctic over Smooth? Miami's Superior ink has more opacity than their Smooth at the same price.... have you compared Miami's superior to the Excalibur arctic? I should not be surprised if Alan has compared these two already....Alan? Just about out of both smooth and superior, so now would be a good time to know.... What's the flash time like too for putting top colors on?
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Tell me more
I have limited experience but from union cotton white we moved to Miami smooth, this arctic is smoother and prints better... Pretty awesome stuff.
Now I will hint at a secret white that we are supposed to get a sample of that may even be better... No time frame nor even a name... But it seemed nice when I played with it... Will let you know when we get our sample and run test in our own shop.
Gills,
How much more opacity was there with Arctic over Smooth? Miami's Superior ink has more opacity than their Smooth at the same price.... have you compared Miami's superior to the Excalibur arctic? I should not be surprised if Alan has compared these two already....Alan? Just about out of both smooth and superior, so now would be a good time to know.... What's the flash time like too for putting top colors on?
Not really any actually.
This was printed both through a 180-S PFP. The full logo is Smooth (based down a bit with union curable reducer) and the sleeve is arctic straight (as the sample was). My guy just said it lays down easier... ALMOST a one hit for us, closer than smooth for sure.
It also feels smoother on the shirt.
I've never used superior, sounds too racist for me (j/k).
*edit* guess you needed a picture attached!
*one more edit* I knocked the exposure down on my phone because the white was blowing out the picture before. It looks a little yellow here but it's just as white as smooth (you know what that looks like so you can see how they both look yellow).
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For us its:
Wilflex:
1-Quick for stand alone
2-Extreme stand alone / UB 50/50%
(doesn't raise as much as quick for smoother top coats)
2-Sprint for cottons
Moving to Extreme for 1 above in the future.
At least try Quick, well worth the peace of mind.
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For us its:
Wilflex:
1-Quick for stand alone
2-Extreme stand alone / UB 50/50%
(doesn't raise as much as quick for smoother top coats)
2-Sprint for cottons
Moving to Extreme for 1 above in the future.
Going to have to try Extreme if it has less blowing agent in it.
At least try Quick, well worth the peace of mind.
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Dont know if anyone has tried Legacy White from IC yet. I recently bought two gallons needed it ASAP and my normal white takes three days.
First thing i noticed it is damn thick, second problem I cannot clear it with one stroke ever. I have tried everything possible and it will not fully clear on one stroke for me. It is so thick it barely floods, so I have to slow the flood down. But the best part once you get it rolling and printing ok it is wicked opaque! and has a really nice smooth finish. It really reminds me of white inks from 15 years ago thick as molasses hard to print and passable with out a flash. But for ease of printing it is not worth it.
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Used Quick since it came out and its GREAT, but recently got a 5 of Solar and have never looked back. @almosthalfthecost
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Dont know if anyone has tried Legacy White from IC yet. I recently bought two gallons needed it ASAP and my normal white takes three days.
First thing i noticed it is damn thick, second problem I cannot clear it with one stroke ever. I have tried everything possible and it will not fully clear on one stroke for me. It is so thick it barely floods, so I have to slow the flood down. But the best part once you get it rolling and printing ok it is wicked opaque! and has a really nice smooth finish. It really reminds me of white inks from 15 years ago thick as molasses hard to print and passable with out a flash. But for ease of printing it is not worth it.
Got a free gallon sample from them. Put it in the screen and messed with it for a bit. Pulled it out and have not touched it since. That sh!t sucked.
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I use the SF LB on my Sportsman. aspect 2 and 3 are its best points.
Matt down is good as other nice whites I've used. I print this thru
196 mesh to get as soft a hand as possible with white. I have seen
softer hand white on shirts but opacity always suffers.