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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: jason-23 on January 17, 2013, 05:48:22 PM
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Are all scoop coaters the same? meaning their shape and angle of the v bend? How do you guys get all the remainder emulsion out after coating screens or do you just not both and wash it out?
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I've got a white plastic spatula I bought from Publix a long time ago. Not the kind you use on the stove, more for mixing or something. The corners are rounded and I can rake most of the leftover emulsion back into the bucket.
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Seems like they don't vary a lot, but the different models I have aren't exactly the same.
I'm a fan of rubber/teflon spatulas, a little bit of flex but they still get into the corners.
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I've always used the AWT dual coat. Like 'em a lot.
I saw the co. that makes the ergo force squeegees has one out that looks pretty sweet as well. Theirs is the first I've seen with some sort of change to the features.
I use old credit cards or similar to scrape out the emulsion. The new one mentioned above is designed to fit on of those disposable cards they sell but I find products like that wasteful and needless, an old card works fine and you can rinse/reuse it for a long time.
Rubber spatula is a great idear.
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I scrape ours out with a two inch plastic spatula, instead of wasting time cleaning the spatula I just let the emulsion dry on it and peel it off the next time it's needed.
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I just bought the most insane scoop coater this week. this thing freakin rocks. It's called the Monster Max, it lays down the smoothest coating I've done yet. Great pricing too. NO more of those cruddy side lines from the ends of the conventional coaters. (http://www.davisint.com/images/Product/medium/804.jpg)
Bought mine from Roeder Industries Titusville Florida.
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I was just getting ready to post the same thing. Picked up one of the monster coasters last month and love it. Holds a ton of emulsion and lays down a nice coat. I clean mine with old business cards then wash out with water, dry and ready for the next set.
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As far as I can remember I have always used a Tetko dual coater. That Monster Max has a unique feature, adjustable end caps to meter the emulsion coating. Does it have a sharp and a round edge like the dual coater?
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I just bought the most insane scoop coater this week. this thing freakin rocks. It's called the Monster Max, it lays down the smoothest coating I've done yet. Great pricing too. NO more of those cruddy side lines from the ends of the conventional coaters. ([url]http://www.davisint.com/images/Product/medium/804.jpg[/url])
Bought mine from Roeder Industries Titusville Florida.
That's the one I was talkin' bout. Nice that it holds more, that's my only complaint with the AWT, you have to refill too much.
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Yes two edges. They recomend setting it and using the fat edge for a heavy deposits but for me it was too much emulsion. I use the sharp side now and getting nice coating, about the same deposit as the fat side of my old Sefar coater. The first time it was alwarkward when full of emulision, spilled a bunch.
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That is actually a rad feature- you could use it to reduce the number of coats if you dialed it in. Bumping down to 1/1 from a 2/1 or 3/1 would be huge for some shops. You could buy an extra and have it just for those one hit wonder screens or hd work, etc.
I personally have some completely unfounded superstition that 2/1, either thick or thin edge is where it's at to ensure consistent coating. I only coat 330s at 1/1 thin edge because it needs a very thin film for some jobs, but all else gets a 2/1 on either edge.
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Like everything else I just need to find some time to play with the adjustments and get a perfect coat of emulsion.
This coater has gotten me from 3/2 to 2/1.
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Ever since learning about EOM, I put aside my old advance sharp side only, and have used the rounded edge available on most others. It would take a lot more sharp passes to get the "glisten"
I have a couple, a Tetko and Sefar, I think. They have two different profiles, but I merely cut a card out of cereal box cardboard to match the one I''m using, and scrape out the unused emulsion back into the bucket.
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I've experimented with sharp vs round and with my technique and all the guys I've had coating for me the round wins.
Zoo, a 1/1 sharp on a 330? Doing the glisten on a 330 takes us a 3/1 and it's still a very thin EOM, probably around 10%. I could look at my notes and tell you for sure but I'm lazy. I remember it being well under the 12-15% but it does work well for getting those finer halftones with a pure photopolymer emulsion.
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Did that scoop coater come from Shaun Roeder or is that a coincidence? Looks like I'll be trying that out
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Any idea why the cut out profile on the bottom legs of the end cap is different in the 2 pictures? I see the small inset picture says "quick start end cap"
Robert
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One side is for fast coating and steaper angle, other to thick. They claim you can use the thick side and make your own capillary filim. If you find it online the instructions and explanation are pretty detailed. I got mine from Preformance and is on their home page.
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Any idea why the cut out profile on the bottom legs of the end cap is different in the 2 pictures? I see the small inset picture says "quick start end cap"
Robert
Doubles as a beer opener, Heck maybe to remove the lid on the emulsion bucket.
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Any idea why the cut out profile on the bottom legs of the end cap is different in the 2 pictures? I see the small inset picture says "quick start end cap"
Robert
Doubles as a beer opener, Heck maybe to remove the lid on the emulsion bucket.
^^ This, that's worth buying this coater alone! ;)
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AWT..i use a paint stick to stir, use an ink card to scrape out ink...throw away..
easy peasy
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I've got a super duper monster mayhem maximus capacitus scoop coater on order.
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Tony___ yep bought it from Shaun Roeder. The coater is freakin awesome. The notches at the bottom allow you to coat inside the frame from top to bottom all the way. Pretty awesome, holds more emulsion, leaves zero beading on the sides of your coating, and the legs are cool allowing it to sit up straight. Cool thing is, if you need various sizes you only have to buy one set of ends if you want, and swap between coaters. It's only a few bucks more than the old plastic ended mess makers I've used in the past. It's to bomb diggity!!
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Zoo, a 1/1 sharp on a 330? Doing the glisten on a 330 takes us a 3/1 and it's still a very thin EOM, probably around 10%. I could look at my notes and tell you for sure but I'm lazy. I remember it being well under the 12-15% but it does work well for getting those finer halftones with a pure photopolymer emulsion.
Yep. Usually it's 2/1 but every so often needs to be super thin- 60lpi, some flatstock, high detail DC.
A face coat is typically involved, but not always.
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Its been awhile but I purchased the Monster Max scoop coater in January after reading this thread.
By far the best coater I have used thus far. Perfect FAST coating everytime.
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I just bought it. I keep getting a bead on the outside. I did not do the blue tape thing on the instructions. Is that my problem.
Thanks,
matt
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I just bought it. I keep getting a bead on the outside. I did not do the blue tape thing on the instructions. Is that my problem.
Thanks,
matt
Yes, this is important. Also be sure to use a Flat even surface, like the glass in your exposure unit. It took me 2-3 adjustments to get it correct. Also look down the edge to the corners and see if the sides or higher, you can also run your finger nail down the edge to check it as well. Good Luck and don't get discouraged..
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What is the "blue tape thing" in the instructions?
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I read the instructions again. It is pretty clear that this step is to make sure the end caps are level with coater. I was thinking it was to make a thicker coat for cap film... I guess I should read all the directions rather than just jumping in.
Matt
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I ended up adjusting the coater 4 or 5 times. My biggest problem was getting the end caps parallel. I ended up not using the tape and just adjusting the caps to be even with the two coating edges. Like Parker said used the glass on the exposure unit as a flat surface. With this set up I have been coating with the fat edge with no problems. If you use the tape and fat edge the emulsion goes all over the place.
When the coater is full I have found it will leave a little bead on the sides when coating, I have just been putting less emulsion in the coater.
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okay. I lined the caps up by eye, not on a glass table. The results are much better. I think I will like using this guy.
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Where does one purchase one of these devices?
And does everyone here that's used one still think it worthwhile?
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basicsilkscreensupplies.com
I like mine, I'd buy it again.
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They hold more than anything else out there. The adjustable lip is more of an inconvenience than a feature but is fine once you mess around with it and get it setup perfect.
We'll be switching over to it in the Fall I think, not going to toss a different coater into the mix right now. After testing I noticed it puts down some serious EOM, even on the thinner edge and I need to reset our coating counts to match it to what our current AWT does. It may be that it puts down too much for our highest mesh counts but this thing would be the jam for those thick plastisol stencils.
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techsupportsps.com
They advertise here.
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I got mine at performancescreen.com. I have only used it 2x so I am not really able to give you a solid answer but so far it is looking pretty good to me.
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I use an ancient Tetco (?) with replacement Sefar caps...Teflon flat-edge spatula that I custom cut across the end to match the "V" angle of the extrusion...Scrape excess back into bucket, remove plastic caps, clean emulsion residue off caps with pressure washer, and dry. Simply drop coater trough into old 7 gallon Tiger White bucket (5 gal. bucket isn't tall enough) full of water to store....when ready to coat, a quick rinse, dry, and, voila! I tried leaving the caps on and dropping the whole gloppy mess into storage water, but that tends to soften the plastic, and make the coater "grab" as it passes over the mesh.
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Where does one purchase one of these devices?
And does everyone here that's used one still think it worthwhile?
Its actually pretty good. We are even going to incorporate it into our auto coater and drop the Sefar unit currently used. Nice product!
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Anywhere to buy these online (not over the phone or through email)? I have called both suppliers linked and gotten no response. I just want to purchase on my own time...
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I used mine this weekend, YOU better read the instructions, I ripped one freshly made screen. Why the heck could they not have made the end caps plastic. Would be a great coater if it had been plastic, to much assembly and disassembly involved. IMO