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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: Gilligan on July 02, 2012, 06:24:41 PM
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Well, thanks to Bill Foust, I picked this little guy up and it came in today.
Thank goodness the truck that delivered it showed up with a lift gate. I was rolling the dice on it because they charge $50 bucks even if they plan on showing up with one anyway and about 75% of the trucks usually do show up with one here (FedEx being one of the ones that doesn't and I knew it wasn't coming in FedEx).
But boy, I was thinking I could have muscled it out of the truck if needed.... HAHAHAHA!
We BARELY got it off the pallet (Egyptian Throne/Cart style) and then used a heavy duty industrial dolly (shown) to get it around the corner and off the sidewalk, where it promptly sunk in the mud, so we built another, it burned down and then sunk in to the mud (j/k)... we managed to park it there in the corner, "hidden" though I'm not sure who would be able to steal it, like I said, if you are stealing something you don't care about tearing it up. So I'm off to get some chain to lock it down for now.
Gonna figure out how I will mount this guy tomorrow!
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When I got my 5 horse I tried to dance it over into the corner of my shop. Well those things are super top heavy and that thing went over but I held on and it did not hit the ground. It is amazing what adrenalline will do! At least I know I can hold up a little over 400 pounds. Luckily my wife was there to help push it back upright.
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that is beast!
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I was walking that dolly down the sidewalk around the building and I had to keep the tire right on the edge to clear the bay windows and I thought... if this wheel slips off the edge, it's going over plain and simple, there ain't NO way of stopping it!
Hell, I just "walked" it closer to that corner to chain it to the post and I had to use the dolly to go "front wheels then back wheels". Top heavy is an understatement!
Do I need to (or plain and simple SHOULD I) build a little lean to over the top of this thing? I have the extra metal roofing panels so I guess there is no reason I shouldn't.
Anything else I should do to "protect" this guy since it's gonna sit outside?
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Nice Yes I would build some cover for it. Can you lay down some plywood to roll the dolly on.
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Yeah, we had to take some scrap wood to get past the first dig in the dirt... it is moving ok beyond that, but I'm thinking of laying down wood to make it even easier.
Pushing it isn't too bad because it already wants to fall backwards... so I'm naturally pushing it just to keep it up right!
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You do know the compressor and motor can be removed so its easier to move and not top heavy.
Just saying.
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Yeah, but then I have to fight with the plumbing... seems like 6 of one or half a dozen of the other type of thing.
I thought about it... but maybe I'm over thinking it.
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I built a shed around ours with a shingle roof and blind picket fence siding. Keeps kids out and allows for great airflow.
Check to see what oil it recommends, I use the stuff from Northern Tool...it's awesome. Stay away from Mobil compressor oil, it's terrible.
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Thanks Brad, good to know.
I was thinking about just throwing up some hurricane fence around it... figured it be easy and cheap, but I honestly haven't looked at it yet, so I'm keeping options open.
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Well I put it on the pad today.
First time pouring a pad, put in the anchor bolts based on some rough measurements and nailed it.
It was a beast but with a little help from the wife I got it on there!
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When I got my 5 horse I tried to dance it over into the corner of my shop. Well those things are super top heavy and that thing went over but I held on and it did not hit the ground. It is amazing what adrenalline will do! At least I know I can hold up a little over 400 pounds. Luckily my wife was there to help push it back upright.
The contract printer I use tried to move theirs and it toppled over and bent some peices , those things are no joke.
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Absolutely! I worked VERY slow... when it was on that heavy duty dolly (my father's from when we had a furniture/appliance rental place) which has 10" rear wheels that it kicks back on it was STILL a beast. Being so top heavy when it was kicked back it wanted to topple over... making it about 30 lbs to hold up constantly as you try to move it around and wait for the wife to put planks down in front or under the smaller front wheels. It was also strapped with the dolly strap (3" ratcheting on the dolly) as well as at the bottom with a regular ratchet strap so it couldn't slip off the dolly's plate (it was just barely on there).
When not on the dolly I only took it to the balance point and moved it VERY slowly, usually just leaving it on the ground and shimmying it when possible.
I GOT BLISTERS ON MY FINGERS! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqUq2Da7d5c#)
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Hey Brian (or anyone, but Brian seems to be our resident compressor expert),
As you can see from the last picture, the low oil level sensor is "broken"... it looks like it broke before and someone had epoxied it back on. The lever still swings fine but it seems like a shoddy way of doing it.
I'm just wondering if it works like that is it something I should worry about replacing properly or should I just epoxy it back on again and roll with it? Another question, are these things "normally" in a "fault" position or in a working position? If I left it hanging off or more to the point, if it fell off in the future and I did not notice it, would it still work, ergo negating the entire safety net of having it there to shut off the compressor in a low oil situation?
For the record this is a Ingersoll Rand 7.5HP T30.
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i wouldn't worry about the low oil lever. keep changing your oil every quarter and you will be fine. does it have a "looking glass" to see how much oil is in there?
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Is it good to mount these compressors directly with the metal foot or is it better to use the hard rubber pads as a buffer? Our compressor has always been on the pads versus metal on concrete.
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the rubber is a great idea. It can rot over time though and should be replaced periodically.
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Cork pads with rubber facing here--it will cut down on noise slightly as well.
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...I used short lenghts of old dull squeegee rubber, worked GREAT. Four years and one move late, NO rot to speak of!!
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The level switch should be "Normally Open". When the oil level drops it will open the control circuit with a float dropping the relay out. From the pictures it looks like its just the cover that is broke. You could just hook it back up and find a way to cover the connections to protect them and yourself. It could be as simple as piece of neoprene rubber secured with ty-wraps. As long as you check your oil level there is really no need for it. If you feel you need it as "cheap insurance" they are easy to come by and really any "NO" float switch will work. It should be a 1/2" or 3/4" npt connection and amperage is low because it is just operating the control relay. The yellow plug next to the switch is the fill and should have level instructions on it or on some models a dip stick.
Mounting directly to the floor is fine but to lessen noise use 1/2" machinery felt with a steel plate on top so the feet don't cut into the felt.
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Thanks, Brian... It is broken though... I will take a better pic in a second and post.
You check the oil via the fill "plug", not a big deal honestly, but not sight glass.
I thought about some rubber, which is one reason I haven't bent over the bolts in an extra attempt to help deter theft (yea right).
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Long second, I know sorry.