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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: Croft on February 22, 2012, 04:04:45 PM
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So I'm taking baby steps with waterbase and discharge, I have tried some CCI white discharge samples and like the results I'm getting.
My question is about cure in discharge ink, If I use the white and it turns the area white after going throught the dryer is it cured? I washed a couple after and they seem ok but just not sure?
And since I had the temp way up the area went over 320* but not sure if that is even realevant.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks :-\
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time in the dryer is more relevant then temp. If you're happy with the afterwash results then I'd
say you're good to go. Smell the print post dryer. Shouldn't smell like sulfur at all. If it does, you're
not fully cooked.
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What is the truth about air drying waterbase shirts? Is it true that Matsui prints (not discharge) can be air dryed and still be washed and last just as well as prints cured at over 320 degrees in a real dryer? I have heard that it is true?
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I doubt it, I know with the Brother digital inks, they wash OK if air dryed, but they have binders in them that must hit a certain temp for a certain time.
I doubt they wash as well, but they still will probably stain a shirt, just like plastisol.
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What is the truth about air drying waterbase shirts? Is it true that Matsui prints (not discharge) can be air dryed and still be washed and last just as well as prints cured at over 320 degrees in a real dryer? I have heard that it is true?
You could just cure yours outside in the summer Jon! ;D
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FWIW, I used to print shirts with waterbased Speedball (where the hell did they come up with that name anyways?)
inks and dry them in the closet. Literally hanging from the closet rack on a hanger. That was my dryer. Luckily
production was slow and the quantities were never that high, 15 at most. Anywho, worked just fine, and due
to them being waterbased (always on lights) they actually looked better than some plastisol prints post-wash.
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What is the truth about air drying waterbase shirts? Is it true that Matsui prints (not discharge) can be air dryed and still be washed and last just as well as prints cured at over 320 degrees in a real dryer? I have heard that it is true?
You could just cure yours outside in the summer Jon! ;D
I don't want to burn them. My dryer is set lower than putting them in the sun on a hot day in the summer here. :D
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I also have a curing question.... The Matsui Extreme white I have just run through the dryer and set it by my desk up front. I had a female customer come in and I thought it was her but to my suprise it was the dang shirt that had the white ink on it. My question is "Why does that smell like that?" There is no way I could sell a shirt that smells like that... What is up with that?
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It isn't cured.
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I'm not really qualified to chime in for CCI Discharge. But having used Union Plasticharge, just because it turns to what seems like waterbase, I don't think it really is waterbase. It's a hybid that has some of the characteristics of waterbase. The heat is needed to completely evaporate the oxidizer that removes the dye from the garment.
I try to keep the shirts at about 300-310 and length of time in the heat about about 90 seconds using an electric dryer without forced air.
That's just my thoughts. Been wrong before and probably will be again.
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thanks so far. just wanted no problems 2 weeks down the road . Still going to do some longer testing though.
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It isn't cured.
The shirt was almost on fire! the ink or water based ink looked like it had scorched and that is not cured? wow I may not want to go this route. Could I have put too much of the powder in it? I was instructed to use 10% to the amount of ink. Thanks ahead of time for the help
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Don't have experience with Matsui Extreme, but we're at %5 by weight or less for the activator.
Typically about 3%.
With electric dryers it is possible to scorch a shirt and not dry waterbased ink.
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ebscreen is that because of the air flow?
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It isn't cured.
The shirt was almost on fire! the ink or water based ink looked like it had scorched and that is not cured? wow I may not want to go this route. Could I have put too much of the powder in it? I was instructed to use 10% to the amount of ink. Thanks ahead of time for the help
I'm almost afraid to ask. Did you put in 10% based on volume or weight?
Ding, ding, the correct answer is weight.
And 10% activator (Union Plasticharge) is too much. 6% recommended with 8% as a maximum.
Lol, at the smell - thinking from the lady customer. Reminds me of the joke with the blind man in the fish market, but that's another story. Union Plasticharge does not have an offensive smell at all.
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you know that no instructions came with the kit soooooo yes it was volume. My wife said we could sell the shirts with a fish design on them and it would be just like you caught the fish lmao. Hey it is trial and error so the first run was ERROR. I want give up
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you know that no instructions came with the kit soooooo yes it was volume. My wife said we could sell the shirts with a fish design on them and it would be just like you caught the fish lmao. Hey it is trial and error so the first run was ERROR. I want give up
Okay, fair enough. Try it again but get a cheap gram scale from like Bed Bath and Beyond (I got mine for about $25).
Here's what I do. I weigh an empty container. Then zero the scale with the container. Put what I plan to use in the container and put on the scale. Target something easy for numbers like 100 grams. If too much, cut to 50. Then add 6 grams (3 if 50 grams of ink) of activator, mix and print. Let us know how it turns out.
Don't have much to add on the smell. I suspect your brand has formaldehyde in it. Union does not have an offensive odor.
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Gram scale is a definite necessity. When I run discharge thru my ranar 8ft dryer I had the temp set to 600 and belt speed to20 and ran thru twice. So bump temps down a couple hundred degrees and slow belt down by about half what you normally cure plastisol with. It is a slow go for sure