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Embroidery => General Embroidery => Topic started by: IntegrityShirts on February 21, 2012, 02:15:49 PM
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I'm starting to begin to think a little about maybe just maybe down the road some time this year of offering embroidery services. I'm looking for advice on machines, number of heads to start with as a super small timer that gets asked often if I do embroidery, and tips and tricks that all embroiderers should know.
I read a few threads down that most would suggest starting out with a minimum two head machine? Are there any online resources that you all use for help with machines or digitizing? I imagine 90% of my embroidery would be sport shirts and the other 5% hats.
Barudan, Tajima, SWF.... I know are all good brands.
What about Happy? Toyota?
Are there any characteristics normally associated with a specific brand? Like "blank" is a better machine for hats etc.?
Number of colors. I'm a complete newb when it comes to this so bear with me. Everyone says get the most needles as you can. How long does it take to swap out colors on machines if you need to thread a different spool in there? How many colors would you use for 98% of your jobs? Is the point to not to have to rethread for different jobs and just keep common colors loaded in all 15 spots? I can't think of any embroidery I've seen that had more than 3 or 4 colors in it.
Thanks!!
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Same boat. We were subbing out enough (and having enough difficulties with) contract embroidery that it made
sense to bring it in. Starting with a single head SWF 15 needle with the LCD panel. You'll hear good and bad things about
every brand except Tajima and maybe Barudan. We likely should have gotten at least 2 if not 4 heads, but this is
my first foray into the field so I didn't want to dive in head first. I figure we can always add more down the road, and running
the machine is easy down time work for the dryer girl.
Stick with a commercial machine, pretty plain and simple. Tajima, Barudan, SWF, Toyota, Happy are all good. I think
Brother (at least some machines) are a little more on the craft side, and any off brand (Ricoma, Prodigi) etc. is generally
warned to stay away from.
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Do yourself a favor and skip the single head, you cant make any real money with a single head. You can use it sure as a way to learn, but if you want any real money, you will need more heads.
SWF is what we use, I would for sure say they are not the best, they are however not the worst either. I would say they are probably 3rd behind Tajima and Barudan. You pay for both of those machines. SWF comes in a good bit cheaper.
I would get a 15 color machine, no reason for smaller. Really isn't. Re-threading doesn't take long no, but if you have say a 30 hat run, and each are different colors, that would really slow you down.
My BEST advice is also this, the single heads (most of them) are smaller sewing fields. You wont be happy with that in the long run.
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I have looked at these also. Subbed out more crap this last year that I should have kept in house. I could have bought a couple of machines. I am down to Barudan and Tajima. SWF is third. We well be pulling the trigger on at least one in the next 90 days too. I hate sending that much money out the door.
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Do yourself a favor and skip the single head, you cant make any real money with a single head. You can use it sure as a way to learn, but if you want any real money, you will need more heads.
SWF is what we use, I would for sure say they are not the best, they are however not the worst either. I would say they are probably 3rd behind Tajima and Barudan. You pay for both of those machines. SWF comes in a good bit cheaper.
I would get a 15 color machine, no reason for smaller. Really isn't. Re-threading doesn't take long no, but if you have say a 30 hat run, and each are different colors, that would really slow you down.
My BEST advice is also this, the single heads (most of them) are smaller sewing fields. You wont be happy with that in the long run.
I have to say every time you guys post some of your work it makes me want it that much more.
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Do yourself a favor and skip the single head, you cant make any real money with a single head. You can use it sure as a way to learn, but if you want any real money, you will need more heads.
SWF is what we use, I would for sure say they are not the best, they are however not the worst either. I would say they are probably 3rd behind Tajima and Barudan. You pay for both of those machines. SWF comes in a good bit cheaper.
I would get a 15 color machine, no reason for smaller. Really isn't. Re-threading doesn't take long no, but if you have say a 30 hat run, and each are different colors, that would really slow you down.
My BEST advice is also this, the single heads (most of them) are smaller sewing fields. You wont be happy with that in the long run.
I have to say every time you guys post some of your work it makes me want it that much more.
Thank's!
Also in my opinion, stay away from Brothers and Melcos. Both of these are hoobiest companies as far as embroidery goes and they are trying to play in the big kids world. Heard too many stories.
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Melco is so-so. I run an SWF and I've heard more bad about them than I have about Brother. To be honest, I have never really looked that far into embroidery machines. We started with a Melco and moved to an SWF.
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Here is the kind of work you can do on a SWF, thats all I know:
http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/display.php?t=bycat&q=29&nr=410&st=0&upto=24&p=1 (http://www.graphicdisorder.com/gallery/display.php?t=bycat&q=29&nr=410&st=0&upto=24&p=1)
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Like everyone has said, Tajima, Barudan, or SWF in that order. We have a Tajima TFMX 1504 and have had zero complaints or problems. Don't cheap out and get some cut rate machine, you will probably regret it. I would suggest a two head at the very minimum. The nice thing about a 4 head is you can bust out more stuff in half the time of a two head. The only drawback is when you get people wanting onesie, twosie orders.
Brandt, you link keeps causing my antivirus to block it. It says that it is infected with HTML/ScrInject.B.Gen virus
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Like everyone has said, Tajima, Barudan, or SWF in that order. We have a Tajima TFMX 1504 and have had zero complaints or problems. Don't cheap out and get some cut rate machine, you will probably regret it. I would suggest a two head at the very minimum. The nice thing about a 4 head is you can bust out more stuff in half the time of a two head. The only drawback is when you get people wanting onesie, twosie orders.
Brandt, you link keeps causing my antivirus to block it. It says that it is infected with HTML/ScrInject.B.Gen virus
Ya our host got hacked recently and some of the files on our site was affected, interestingly they are doing nothing about it.
We are trying to schedule time to deal with it.
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Like everyone has said, Tajima, Barudan, or SWF in that order. We have a Tajima TFMX 1504 and have had zero complaints or problems. Don't cheap out and get some cut rate machine, you will probably regret it. I would suggest a two head at the very minimum. The nice thing about a 4 head is you can bust out more stuff in half the time of a two head. The only drawback is when you get people wanting onesie, twosie orders.
Brandt, you link keeps causing my antivirus to block it. It says that it is infected with HTML/ScrInject.B.Gen virus
Thanks everyone for the replies. I do have a noob question now. If I have a 4 head machine and someone does want just one or two garments. How do you do it on the machine?
SWF seems to be the most reputable budget friendly option. Tajima and Barudan are top dollar even in the used market.
Do you all test emroider before running jobs like in screen printing? Seriously this is all greek to me. How long does it take to learn and do digitizing for an illustrator geek? Any free software to download to try my hand at it?
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we were in the same boat, I just bought a single head toyota 850 for 3k, it arrived today. 12 colors, 12"x16" sewing field, cap attachment. hoops, all kinds of goodies. I went with a single head for a few reasons. if we start doing more and more, I will need to upgrade to a multi head - but what one?, I don't have any expierience on anything so I need to learn on something. I'm ok with learning on a 3k machine, then I will know what features I like and have a better understanding of what to look for. We will always have a use for a single head, names and junk...so it can't hurt. check out digitsmith, there's some deals over there.
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Thanks everyone for the replies. I do have a noob question now. If I have a 4 head machine and someone does want just one or two garments. How do you do it on the machine?
SWF seems to be the most reputable budget friendly option. Tajima and Barudan are top dollar even in the used market.
Do you all test emroider before running jobs like in screen printing? Seriously this is all greek to me. How long does it take to learn and do digitizing for an illustrator geek? Any free software to download to try my hand at it?
You can shut each head off. On the Tajima's there is a toggle switch of each head.
We test all new designs. As far as digitizing that is one of those things where it takes a lot of time to learn. When we first started we sent our designs out to be digitized. As part of our software package we got a free digitizing class for two. We do a lot in house, every now and then we will ship something our for digitizing because of the difficulty.
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Exactly my reasoning Homer. My machine will be here Friday though. Here's to hoop strikes!
After seeing how long an average design takes though, it likely won't be long until we have
a multi-head machine.
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A average single jacket here takes 2hrs to do. Just a insight to why you will want 2 or more head quickly.
If I had it to do over, id have got a 2 head first. then several 4 heads.
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We never regret getting a 4 head. It was wise a decision. We have had jobs where it would have taken forever if we had anything smaller.
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see the other thing too is, we are mainly doing samples not full production runs. If a customer orders a few dozens t's and a dozen hoodies, I want to toss in an embroidered hat or hoodie. Once we get the order, I will send it out to my usual account. The numbers don't make sense for us to try and run dozens on a single head, it just doesn't add up. but for names and screwing around I don't think it's a bad move. trying to make a business out of a single head is a different story. I am excited to bust a move with this thing and see what we can do to upsell to our existing customer base.
I think my next move would be a 4 head, possibly a 6 depending on where we were in sales but before we go there, I need to order me up a sportsman!
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go for 6. we got an swf dual function 3/3 and it's great. i love sewing either all heads on 1 design, or 2 different designs. It really speeds up production.
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I started with Tajima Neo2 about 2.5 years ago. I love the macine!!!
I think it is time to get a few more heads. I thought about re-doing one of the rooms in the house and make it a office/embroidery room, but I decided against it.
The reason was, I thought about buying an used 4 head Tajima or SWF. I have a big problem with my basement, I can not take down anything bigger than a single head, even the single head with a full size table/frame might be a problem.
In the end, I will be looking for another single head soon, and hopefully, another one by the end of the year. Three single heads should be enough for my needs, if I overgrow that, that will tell me that it is time to get out of the basement and rent a warehouse or a retail space.
I have heard that 3 single head machines could do more in 8 hours than a 4 head. That is because you can load one while the other two are running, on the 4 head, you have to be down while you are loading the shirts/hats.
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Also, when you have a thread break, it doesn't stop the other heads. That is the other thing I like about the 3/3.
We went from a 4 head and single head to a 3/3 and kept the single.
There are so many singles out on the market right now that we'd be lucky to get $2k for ours. Might as well keep it.
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I started with Tajima Neo2 about 2.5 years ago. I love the macine!!!
I think it is time to get a few more heads. I thought about re-doing one of the rooms in the house and make it a office/embroidery room, but I decided against it.
The reason was, I thought about buying an used 4 head Tajima or SWF. I have a big problem with my basement, I can not take down anything bigger than a single head, even the single head with a full size table/frame might be a problem.
In the end, I will be looking for another single head soon, and hopefully, another one by the end of the year. Three single heads should be enough for my needs, if I overgrow that, that will tell me that it is time to get out of the basement and rent a warehouse or a retail space.
I have heard that 3 single head machines could do more in 8 hours than a 4 head. That is because you can load one while the other two are running, on the 4 head, you have to be down while you are loading the shirts/hats.
I had a 2 head and a single head in a basement before moving to my shop.
Built a ramp, tied them to my Diesel truck, backed it up with them strapped to the hitch. Worked out, took them out the same way.
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Also, when you have a thread break, it doesn't stop the other heads. That is the other thing I like about the 3/3.
We went from a 4 head and single head to a 3/3 and kept the single.
There are so many singles out on the market right now that we'd be lucky to get $2k for ours. Might as well keep it.
The Dual functions are decent, but correct me if I am wrong I thought they had a slightly smaller sewing field than the full size multiheads.
My machines all have the 500x450mm sewing field.
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I started with Tajima Neo2 about 2.5 years ago. I love the macine!!!
I think it is time to get a few more heads. I thought about re-doing one of the rooms in the house and make it a office/embroidery room, but I decided against it.
The reason was, I thought about buying an used 4 head Tajima or SWF. I have a big problem with my basement, I can not take down anything bigger than a single head, even the single head with a full size table/frame might be a problem.
In the end, I will be looking for another single head soon, and hopefully, another one by the end of the year. Three single heads should be enough for my needs, if I overgrow that, that will tell me that it is time to get out of the basement and rent a warehouse or a retail space.
I have heard that 3 single head machines could do more in 8 hours than a 4 head. That is because you can load one while the other two are running, on the 4 head, you have to be down while you are loading the shirts/hats.
I had a 2 head and a single head in a basement before moving to my shop.
Built a ramp, tied them to my Diesel truck, backed it up with them strapped to the hitch. Worked out, took them out the same way.
I thought about building a "storm" exit from my basement, but that will run me around $4000. There is no any other exit from basement except the main basement entrance in the house. I think that I would rather have another single head instead of the door.
And through the house, I get into the basement from a hallway on first floor. Right across the basement door, there is a wall that will prevent me to turn around any machine that is bigger than a single head. I could knock out the wall and bring the machine down, but I do not know how my wooden steps would like that :)
I'll stick with the singles for now.
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Also, when you have a thread break, it doesn't stop the other heads. That is the other thing I like about the 3/3.
We went from a 4 head and single head to a 3/3 and kept the single.
There are so many singles out on the market right now that we'd be lucky to get $2k for ours. Might as well keep it.
The Dual functions are decent, but correct me if I am wrong I thought they had a slightly smaller sewing field than the full size multiheads.
My machines all have the 500x450mm sewing field.
Also, I have heard that there are some issues with the vibrations and machine movement. I guess when you are doing hats on one side and polos on the other, the different pantograph movements and vibrations mess up the machine.
Brad, I guess you are a perfect person to dispute this.
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Also, when you have a thread break, it doesn't stop the other heads. That is the other thing I like about the 3/3.
We went from a 4 head and single head to a 3/3 and kept the single.
There are so many singles out on the market right now that we'd be lucky to get $2k for ours. Might as well keep it.
The Dual functions are decent, but correct me if I am wrong I thought they had a slightly smaller sewing field than the full size multiheads.
My machines all have the 500x450mm sewing field.
Also, I have heard that there are some issues with the vibrations and machine movement. I guess when you are doing hats on one side and polos on the other, the different pantograph movements and vibrations mess up the machine.
Brad, I guess you are a perfect person to dispute this.
Heard that from several dual function owners as well. I always wondered if they had the machine on wheels still though. Didn't seem to me like it would be possible to cause issue but I have heard it more than once.
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Our machine has wheels, but it is jacked up off the floor and doesn't sit on them.
We've never had a problem with vibrations, maybe because it's a 3/3 it's heavy enough to prevent that.
We also don't sew hats on it, for some reason we can't get them to look good...and I hate sewing them anyway, so we send them out.
As for the sewing field, I really don't do much over your standard left chest size.
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What about the Melco Amayas? Anyone have one or a few? Seems like they have a different style machine more geared toward external computer control rather than hardware/software built into the machines? For some reason they look less durable, maybe because they look smaller?
That's pretty cool that you can get a 3/3 split machine on one cart like that. I'm most definitely looking used when I do buy but would like expandable options.
I like the idea of networked single head machines but obviously I have no experience using them so I have no way of forming an opinion. For that network reasoning I also like the esp9100's by Toyota.
SWF and Happy seem to be the most affordable in the 15 needle machines.
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I have not heard good things about the Amayas. Maybe they have gotten better.
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What about the Melco Amayas? Anyone have one or a few? Seems like they have a different style machine more geared toward external computer control rather than hardware/software built into the machines? For some reason they look less durable, maybe because they look smaller?
That's pretty cool that you can get a 3/3 split machine on one cart like that. I'm most definitely looking used when I do buy but would like expandable options.
I like the idea of networked single head machines but obviously I have no experience using them so I have no way of forming an opinion. For that network reasoning I also like the esp9100's by Toyota.
SWF and Happy seem to be the most affordable in the 15 needle machines.
I have been told by several embroiders to stay far away from both of these brands. Nothing but problems. I should clarify that it was Amaya and Melco that the warned me about.
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Update! Picked up a t-e1501c to get me going. Anybody have a manual for this thing? I where do you get your thread? Which bobbin size do I order the M or L? Needles? What's good?
Sews ok but thread is really old and brittle and breaks unexpectedly. Going to try new thread then a service if that doesn't work!
Single head I know, but snagged it for 3k so not a bad deal.
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L or M is dependent on the machine... not really a choice.
Same for needles I believe.
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SWF is L bobbins, Std 75/11 needles, Maderai Gold boobons are great and good price. Thread we use Ackermann or Amann now. Maderia is good. plyester is best doesn't bleed color when dry clean like rayon will.
Shane
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Thanks guys. Where you do get your supplies? Is spydercord any good? Or is that a generic thread that is relabeled by Axiom? What about these fancy teflon coated needles that are a whopping penny more than regulars? I'm looking at Organ needles btw.
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..."boobons".... ;D
(I dare anyone to say that phoenetically out loud and not laugh.)
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We were looking for a used 6 head Barudan that was the model currently being made and eventually gave up and got a Tajima as finding a used Barudan with not many years on it was taking too long. The Tajima has been great though I now wish we had a single head for all of the customers who come in wanting names and the like. Oiling six heads and only using one of them for certain jobs when other jobs are waiting can get frustrating. We get all of our supplies from http://www.embstore.com/ (http://www.embstore.com/)
We use the KingStar polyester thread and have had no problems with it. Being new to embroidery (will make a year this December) I would recommend the magna-glide bobbins as bobbin tension becomes much less of a problem in our experience and though it is more expensive, the pennies you are talking about are worth less than the saved frustration in my estimation.
Good luck!
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I hate poly thread. We got a ton more loops from it than rayon. I thought maybe it was our machine(SWF), but I checked with 2 friends that run Tajimas and they said the same thing. They sew mainly rayon as it sews better. Unless they have a job that needs poly, which is rare.
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..."boobons".... ;D
(I dare anyone to say that phoenetically out loud and not laugh.)
Makes me want to get back in to embroidery ;D
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I personally don't like poly and stick with Rayon unless it is fisherman jackets etc... that will get a lot of wear and tear. I think it runs better and has more shine to it where the poly looks more dull.
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Update! Picked up a t-e1501c to get me going. Anybody have a manual for this thing? I where do you get your thread? Which bobbin size do I order the M or L? Needles? What's good?
Sews ok but thread is really old and brittle and breaks unexpectedly. Going to try new thread then a service if that doesn't work!
Single head I know, but snagged it for 3k so not a bad deal.
The majority of machines use L style bobbins. M style bobbins are for the larger bobbin case, like on the Brother 423.
Needles - the organ needles are good. The ceramic coated needles are designed for higher running speed.
The marority of use will be 75/11 sharp. It would be good to have 75/11 ball on hand as well.
Old thread will dry out and become more brittle.Either poly or rayon. I still prefer rayon, but it comes down to cost. For poly I pay $8.60 to 11.60 depending on the make. Rayon is 15.75 ea.
Keep asking questions, and we'll try to help as much as we can.
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Update! Picked up a t-e1501c to get me going. Anybody have a manual for this thing? I where do you get your thread? Which bobbin size do I order the M or L? Needles? What's good?
Sews ok but thread is really old and brittle and breaks unexpectedly. Going to try new thread then a service if that doesn't work!
Single head I know, but snagged it for 3k so not a bad deal.
The majority of machines use L style bobbins. M style bobbins are for the larger bobbin case, like on the Brother 423.
Needles - the organ needles are good. The ceramic coated needles are designed for higher running speed.
The marority of use will be 75/11 sharp. It would be good to have 75/11 ball on hand as well.
Old thread will dry out and become more brittle.Either poly or rayon. I still prefer rayon, but it comes down to cost. For poly I pay $8.60 to 11.60 depending on the make. Rayon is 15.75 ea.
Keep asking questions, and we'll try to help as much as we can.
Awesome thanks! What type of backing do most people run? Machine came with a bundle of cut away that the previous owner suggested double stacking for thin materials. I ordered some tear-away backing that should be in today.
I ordered organ ball nose needles because I saw some chart somewhere online that said loose weave sport shirts should use ball. I will order some sharps as well. I'm really hoping the culprit is the old thread, as no amount of tension adjustments seem to make it run consistently. Most of the thread is rayon and the only bobbin thread I have is poly. I did get one needle going pretty well with a basic design. Seems like the more intricate the stitch the more likely the thread breaks.
Playing with Stitch Era Universal and trying to figure all the settings out. What density is "normal" for sport shirts? Default is this program is 5 lines per mm.
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Umm, avoid doing your own digitizing. farm it out. You will waste more time on it that it is worth.
Ask the backing suppliers what they recommend for their backings. They make them for specific purposes and can better guide you.
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A lot of suppliers will send you samples too for you to test run on.
I agree farm out your digitizing, I know of a good one!-sorry had to do it ;)
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bj's work is great!
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Excellent. Yeah I don't intend on doing my own digitizing unless it's simple text and I feel confident. I'm just trying to learn the ins and outs of this machine via some files that exist and settings within this software.
Got new thread, new bobbins, new needles and it's still breaking thread.
So when I get to the shop today I'm going to pull the cover and follow coldesi's hook timing PDF as well as checking for burrs on the hook itself. Tensions have been played with across the board to no avail, so I think there's something else going on. It's not breaking the needles just fraying the thread after a few stitches and doesn't catch the bobbin thread consistently.
What speed do you all run your machines? This one looks to have been run at 850 stitches per minute. Just wondering what the norm is once it is finely tuned!
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bj.
Which software are you using? Also, PM me you pricing.
Thanks
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Excellent. Yeah I don't intend on doing my own digitizing unless it's simple text and I feel confident. I'm just trying to learn the ins and outs of this machine via some files that exist and settings within this software.
Got new thread, new bobbins, new needles and it's still breaking thread.
So when I get to the shop today I'm going to pull the cover and follow coldesi's hook timing PDF as well as checking for burrs on the hook itself. Tensions have been played with across the board to no avail, so I think there's something else going on. It's not breaking the needles just fraying the thread after a few stitches and doesn't catch the bobbin thread consistently.
What speed do you all run your machines? This one looks to have been run at 850 stitches per minute. Just wondering what the norm is once it is finely tuned!
It definitely sounds like timing might be out. You might also look at the bobbin case. This can cause problems as well.
Do you know how to do "I" or "H" tests? Your bobbin thread should be 1/3 of the total thread showing on the back.
http://www.coldesi.com/support/General-Embroidery-Machine-Support/top-tension-knob-too-loose-or-too-tight-h-test.html (http://www.coldesi.com/support/General-Embroidery-Machine-Support/top-tension-knob-too-loose-or-too-tight-h-test.html)
Your bobbin should drop an inch when you give it a shake. This is a rule of thumb for proper tension for your bobbin.
Start at needle 1 and work your way across. You will be able to see if your top tension has to be tightened or loosened.
Everybody is different but I run mine at approx. 75 % of what the machine will run at. One machine maxs out @ 1000 SPM I run this one @750. It also depends on the garments you are sewing. Some things sew better if you sew them a little slower.
Audra
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If it is fraying the threads and not breaking the needles -2 things come to mind:
1. Sometimes fraying of the thread and not catching the bobbin can come from the needle not being turned at the right angle. The eye of the needle should be turned a hair to the right. A lot of people put it straight on but I was taught early on to have it turned a hair to the right so it catches the bobbin better.
2. By far, the most common source of needle-related problems, is the needle coming
in contact with the needle plate. As it sews, the point of the needle may be
deflected slightly as it pierces the fabric being sewn. If a mild deflection
occurs, the needle will pass very close to the inside edge of the needle plate hole,
possibly grazing it. This in turn may allow the upper thread (being carried by the
needle) to rub along the edge of the needle plate hole as well, resulting in thread
shreds. It may be a matter of the plate needing some adjusting so there is less contact occurring thus no more friction.
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Thanks you two! I did get it up and running correctly today. I checked hook timing and it was correct but the clearance between the hook and needle (front to back) was too large, like over 1/16" when it's supposed to be the thickness of a piece of paper. Did the H test and dialed in the first six heads before running out of time for the day.
So glad it was something I could fix without a tech. Going to get the rest of the heads dialed in and run some more tests. BJ thanks for the needle advice, all mine are installed facing forward.
Audi I was watching videos all day on coldesi's site and reading up on embroidery in general. I used their hook timing pdf.
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so you guys like rayon over poly? I have nothing but poly, I was told to not use rayon because the color washes out and it's more prone to thread breaks?! I'm using Madiera polyneon. . .
Good one BJ, I never heard of turning the needle eye to the right a bit, will be doing that on Monday!
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BJ, could you PM your price list as well?
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Done! Let me know if you have any more questions!
Have a great day! ;D
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so you guys like rayon over poly? I have nothing but poly, I was told to not use rayon because the color washes out and it's more prone to thread breaks?! I'm using Madiera polyneon. . .
Rayon thread won't hold up to bleach. It will fade. Also if the embroidery spends a lot of time in the sun, it will fade. For doing small lettering I perfer rayon. I don't have problems with thread breaks using rayon.
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All of those things are true homer. Poly does last longer and have less breaks, but I get more looping while running it. Also, like audio said, smaller letters look better with rayon.
Poly is just the newest thing out there and rayon has been around for ages, so a lot of people think it's better. It's really what you like running and what works for you. Me, I'll stick with rayon because our work looks better with it.
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Quick question now that I have it running well. The 40-50lbs of thread that came with the machine is 95% rayon. All the bobbins I bought are poly. Does it matter if I run rayon thread colors and poly bobbin thread? One the H test a customer walked in while it was sewing the first H. When I came back out it was done sewing all 6 without a thread break, amazing haha!
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most bobbins are poly. I use magna glides and LOVE them. I will never go back to paper sided bobbins...ever.
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Poly thread has come a long way from 15 yrs ago. One of the biggest things you have to remember with poly thread is it has a memory. If it has been stretched at all it will try to return to it's original length.
The biggest thing I hate about poly thread is the static. I have a humidifier running between two machines and I still have to spray around the machine to keep the static down. You can stand there and watch it pull closer and closer to the tension knobs. I don't get that with rayon.
As for the machine, they generally work better if YOU are nowhere around it! :o
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Correct, most poly now is made to sew and look more like rayon. It's low elongation and has a higher tensile strength, but for some reason it loops like a son of a gun. Also, it runs on a different tension than poly, so if you are like us and have both threads, you have to change your tension to make it sew better.
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Correct, most poly now is made to sew and look more like rayon. It's low elongation and has a higher tensile strength, but for some reason it loops like a son of a gun. Also, it runs on a different tension than poly, so if you are like us and have both threads, you have to change your tension to make it sew better.
You are right about the looping, that is a serious pain in the butt. I did come across a trick that does seem to help. Take a lighter to the place where it has looped after your finished.(run across loop qiuickly) It does shrink them up. It's not the best fix, but will do in a pinch.
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Another looping trick is- once the design is done, flip it over and with your small scissors run it back and forth over the bobbin stitching on the back of the design. It helps pull it in. (With enough pressure but not so much that you will rip the bobbin stitches. ) This technique works particularly well over fill areas that have multiple loops or loose stitching. It pulls it right in. ;D
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BJ, I sent you a PM for pricing info, did ya get it?!
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I emailed you yesterday but I can just resend it ;D
just in case I also just sent it to you by PM.
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Did not see any mention of ZSK machines...... Built in Germany - enough said!! By far the #1 machine in Europe and are now concentrating a lot of their efforts in the US!! Very durable!! Very, very low thread breaks. Very easy to work with!! High performance!! Superior software and controller!! Some real nice accessories to work with!! New innovative technology machine is work checking into!! Absolutely worth checking into before you buy another brand!! Do yourself a favor and spend the money on quality - ZSK !!
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Did not see any mention of ZSK machines...... Built in Germany - enough said!! By far the #1 machine in Europe and are now concentrating a lot of their efforts in the US!! Very durable!! Very, very low thread breaks. Very easy to work with!! High performance!! Superior software and controller!! Some real nice accessories to work with!! New innovative technology machine is work checking into!! Absolutely worth checking into before you buy another brand!! Do yourself a favor and spend the money on quality - ZSK !!
Is your email rickm@zskusa.com? :)
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Did not see any mention of ZSK machines...... Built in Germany - enough said!! By far the #1 machine in Europe and are now concentrating a lot of their efforts in the US!! Very durable!! Very, very low thread breaks. Very easy to work with!! High performance!! Superior software and controller!! Some real nice accessories to work with!! New innovative technology machine is work checking into!! Absolutely worth checking into before you buy another brand!! Do yourself a favor and spend the money on quality - ZSK !!
we have three ZSK machines - two six head and one single head. cant say they have been trouble free, but most was user error.