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General => Manufacturer's section => M&R => Topic started by: blue moon on January 26, 2012, 10:09:10 AM
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we have what I believe to be the first generation of the 3140 (made in 97) and it is tripping a breaker. It used to do it right after striking, but am told is doing it mid run now too. Any thoughts on what could be causing this?
thanx,
pierre
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Could just be a weak breaker or loose connection. Personally I would tighten all the connections first, no cure swap breakers before go looking for something else.
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Could just be a weak breaker or loose connection. Personally I would tighten all the connections first, no cure swap breakers before go looking for something else.
thanx! swapped the breaker already. Maybe the one I put in is old too. Would not be the first time a used part was not good. I'll try that.
pierre
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Everytime a breaker trips it becomes weaker. If it still breaks a brand new breaker definetely get it figured out or else you'll just be replacing expensive breakers often.
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Is it a dedicated run only to the exposure unit? I have an older model too and we had to run a dedicated plug to it. If anyone plugged something in it would trip it mid run. Once we ran a dedicated plug to it, it has not happened since.
We found that the root of our problem was degraded wiring from the age of the building.
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The key to troubleshooting this type of issue is the use of a clamp-on-ammeter. It will tell you exactly what the amp draw is and if that exceeds your breaker rating.
Here's my favorite troubleshooting tool.
http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke-T5.htm?PID=55986&trck=t5 (http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke-T5.htm?PID=55986&trck=t5)
Some day I'll post a video about using it.
I bet there's several on YouTube already.
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The key to troubleshooting this type of issue is the use of a clamp-on-ammeter. It will tell you exactly what the amp draw is and if that exceeds your breaker rating.
Here's my favorite troubleshooting tool.
[url]http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke-T5.htm?PID=55986&trck=t5[/url] ([url]http://www.fluke.com/Fluke/usen/Electrical-Test-Tools/Electrical-Testers/Fluke-T5.htm?PID=55986&trck=t5[/url])
Some day I'll post a video about using it.
I bet there's several on YouTube already.
DUH!!! You'd think I'd thought of that! I was just being lazy and hoping for some insight first, but you are right. A clamp on will let me know exactly. I'll go do that now . . .
pierre
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I,m beating its weak wires over time or a connection needs tighten...your getting an arc somewhere in your lines hope you get all fixed.
Darryl
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I,m beating its weak wires over time or a connection needs tighten...your getting an arc somewhere in your lines hope you get all fixed.
Darryl
we moved in here three years ago and I ran a brand new line for the 3140. I doubt there is anything wrong with it as it has been doing it from the day one. It's just that it used to be once a month and it's once a day now.
pierre
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Connections. We all know how you like to half-@ass things. ;D
Actually, it could be that, how hot is your panel getting? Ours would always trip when we running a lot of juice at once. The panel would almost be too hot to handle.
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Connections. We all know how you like to half-@ass things. ;D
Actually, it could be that, how hot is your panel getting? Ours would always trip when we running a lot of juice at once. The panel would almost be too hot to handle.
'did check that when I replaced the breaker. It's a 200A panel dedicated to the press and dryer. We might have 50A going through it normally. Two flashes will draw about 75A when on, but otherwise dryer and press combined are about 50A.
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I used to have a main (outside) breaker that would trip in the summer when the sun beat down on it all day.
Something about exposure units just leads to corroded/burnt connections. Pop it open and take a whiff, power
cut of course.
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power cut of course.
LOL, or my power will be cut!!!
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pierre, does unit have any fuses in it? my old M&R dryer use to trip breakers until I change out the box that held the fuses even though it seem to hold the fuses tight they were arcing once I changed that it was fine. Something getting hot and overloading on yain your unit, wish I could be more help to ya.... you might even want to check the holders for your bulb I know it gets hot.
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is it a metal halide bulb?
the capacitors might need to be looked at - ive changed the capacitors in a douthitt exposure because they werent able to make the bulb strike. might be something similar in your 3140. just an idea.
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is it a metal halide bulb?
the capacitors might need to be looked at - ive changed the capacitors in a douthitt exposure because they werent able to make the bulb strike. might be something similar in your 3140. just an idea.
it strikes fine. Breaker usually trips after the strike is completed and the other circuit takes over. I used to see it trip right after the strike, but now it sometimes runs for a little bit and then trips.
The wiring looks fine, nothing is lose in the panel. I'm about to put another breaker in. . .
pierre
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I want to play the guessing game. I have 3 rentals and one of them had alot of this. Believe it or not it was the breaker location. It was for the ac and they had both breakers on one pole and it needed one breaker on each pole to draw enough power. Not that this is what your problem is. Its just another option to try, move the breaker to a new pole. (if you have a 2 pole box) I could be way off on this.
I wanted to add breakers take a while to throw (a min to 2 is not uncommon). So depending on your exposure time the problem may have always been there. Add in the weakening of the breaker and you may have your answer. This is really all guessing, Just trying to help.
Whats the draw on the unit and what breaker are you using. It could just be a undersized breaker. (I know, you know what your doing but you have to ask.)
I found this on a forum:
the normal breaker size for wire size is,
#14 wire 15 amp breaker,
#12 wire 20 amp breaker,
#10 wire 30 amp breaker,
but should not be loaded for a continuous load of more the 80%
15 amp breaker and #14 wire, 12 amps,
20 amp breaker and #12 wire, 16 amps,
30 amp breaker and #10 wire, 24 amps,
If you have 18 amps on your unit you should be at 30 amp breaker and #10 wire, 24 amps
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I did a quick read thru the messages and could have missed this, but if you have not done so check to be sure the transformer taps are set correctly. As others have mentioned, check all connections all the way to the lamp to be sure that they are clean and tight. If you are still having problems call M&R and ask to speak with Israel Martinez, he knows this unit very well and can help you troubleshoot it. If you have a VOM, he will be able to help point you in the right direction.
Ron Hopkins
NuArc Sales Manager
M&R Sales and Service
O: 770-254-1584
C: 847-997-2487
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Hey if your digging into this this weekend let me know I could stop up and give you a hand.
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Swapped the breaker and seem to be doing ok. It was on a 20A and have a 30 now. My clamp on meter battery is out so could not check that. If this fixes it it will be a moot point. Thanx for all the help!
Pierre