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screen printing => General Screen Printing => Topic started by: DCSP John on April 30, 2018, 01:01:32 PM
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Hi All..
1000 pieces. Black.
Would prefer plastisol, but not split fountain.
Not wanting to discharge to this order.
Any quick recs? Sim Process?
I have 9 available heads on each machine.
Thanks. John
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Well if I had to take a stab at that print
Four color print
Base white 180 to 196 m
Red 230 to 280 m
yellow 230 to 280 m
Blue 230 to 280 m
purple= red n blue
green = yellow n blue
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Well if I had to take a stab at that print
Four color print
Base white 180 to 196 m
Red 230 to 280 m
yellow 230 to 280 m
Blue 230 to 280 m
purple= red n blue
green = yellow n blue
hell for 1000, we'd just bust out those other 2 screens/colors too. 7 colors + UB. so skinny, WoW should be fine.
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one color per letter, sim process (well, when all you have is a hammer. . . since we don't do anything but simpro).
your underbase will have to be really bright to pull of those vivid colors. on ten heads, I would probably do two screens of white and then WOW for the rest. Even to the point of using less colors over losing an underbase. Adding a hot iron would make that print spectacular!
DC ubase would be nice, but I would prefer plastisol to make it easier/more predictable.
pierre
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I do a good many separations at our shop very similar and I've done a ton as freelance. For 1000 shirts, you want to be consistent.
1 Base white,
Flash
2 Red
3 Blue - almost needs a flash since white base shows through this easily but this red needs to be wet to mix with the yellow. So it's a tossup as to what color is after the flash.
5 Green - I'd use a green (to keep the intensity consistent).
6 Yellow over blue (it's weaker so you want it close to end) and blends well into the green.
7 Purple last. Most transparent color next to that blue.
Agreed on the Iron. Also agree for the 2nd white. WFWF if you can. This is much better than printing one base twice then flash and agree again, it will be SUPER bright this way.
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Interlocking halftones. Run whatever you can get away with wow but expect a lot of flashing.
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Well if I had to take a stab at that print
Four color print
Base white 180 to 196 m
Red 230 to 280 m
yellow 230 to 280 m
Blue 230 to 280 m
purple= red n blue
green = yellow n blue
hell for 1000, we'd just bust out those other 2 screens/colors too. 7 colors + UB. so skinny, WoW should be fine.
I agree with I would print all colors, but I thought he was asking how to reduce colors and get the same effect ;)
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I think I'd index it, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, plus a base, flash the base, then wet on wet.
Steve
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Single flash DC/UB everything else WOW is how we would do it
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Single flash DC/UB everything else WOW is how we would do it
Cheater ;)
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Hello All... thanks a million for the feedback.
Sim Pro it is.
10 color press. Currently - Flash #1 in head 3.
Will move flash#1 to head 2, and remove flash #2 from head 7.
Leaves me 8 heads for color
Love the second white plate idea. Which leaves me 5 available
heads for colors.. here is my press build for this job -
So -
White
Flash
White
flash
would use roller in station 5, but gotta remove for -
Red
Blue -
Green - I'd use a green (to keep the intensity consistent).
Yellow over blue (it's weaker so you want it close to end) and blends well into the green.
Purple last. Most transparent color next to that blue