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Computers and Software => Computers and Software - General => Topic started by: ZooCity on October 12, 2015, 06:18:49 PM
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Our trusty 4800 is shutting down a lot lately with error 0001001B. Starting this morning it errors out almost immediately after beginning printing.
Anyone dealt with this before? Googling around it looks like it could be connections but the service manual is showing to just replace the head. We have a backup complete 4800 that I'll sub in but wondering if anyone had fixed this without head replacement. The head is printing just fine.
Thanks in advance.
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Had it once and it was a loose ribbon cable.
Check that ink isn't being sprayed on either connection as well.
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Fingers crossed, thx. Just popping 'er open now and it's a little inky in thar....
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That means the head is over heating.
Can be loose cable or head is just dieing.
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or your having ink starvation issues. check to make sure your inks are full and if it's a bulk system that the breather caps are off.
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That could be it ^
Basically it means the thermistor is overheating and those printers use ink to cool the head
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Well I tore it apart, checked ever connection and still got the error. Swapped the small fan on the main board out from another printer and it appears to be running fine now...weird because both fans are functional.
Seems to be printing without error from FM, switched over from AR.
For reference, here's what the field repair guide says about this error:
Stylus Pro 4880 Field Repair Guide
1/17/08
The following list represents the historical causes for the 0001001B error.
• Re-seat the Print Head Cables on the Board side.
• Re-seat the Print Head Cables on the Print Head side.
• Replace the Print Head Cables.
• Replace the Main Board.
• Replace the Print Head.
0001001B
Note: The 0001001B error code indicates that the Print Head Driver thermistor detects an abnormal temperature.
Good call Alex M.
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As a matter of fact just had the same problem a few weeks back, ended up my cartridges were plugged at top so no air would let ink get through... So I fixed that and it started again after printing some big ink designs. I took 50:50 Simple green and distilled water and put it on shop towel (blue ones from auto parts house) no lint and turned printer off and released head and placed head over towel overnight. So far not a problem after that. I figured some of the print head ports were not flowing freely so that would make the temp go up and set the error code off. I spent hours on computer and that seemed to work for me. Good luck
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It wasn't good luck, it was my dumb ass forgetting to tell you to unplug those before you left.
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Error popped back up last night at 11:30pm when I was in here trying to catch up. yay.
I'll try the print head unclog thing sportshoppe, thanks. Problem is I have clean nozzles checks, the only ink running is Chromaline black cart, swapped fresh after the problem started, and all other carts are cleaning solution. The head is really printing well I'm struggling to believe the head is dying but running out of areas to look. I just popped all the little air valves off the carts just to see if that helps but I'm seeing fluid in all the lines.
At this point I have:
printer #1 printing clean but errors 0001001B.
printer #2 no errors, but prints "dirty", has trailing dots and "fur" around fine details that don't go away at any rip setting or for any amount of head cleaning. Appears to me like signs of a bad head that I've seen before but I'm confused b/c this 4800 was cherry, bought local and very obviously well maintained so I can't figure what's going on there. Is there some way to literally clean a print head, i.e., not pump massive fluid through but actually clean off the head to remove anything that could be on there?
All I can think to do now is put the good #1 head into the #2 chassis. Less work than swapping boards and cables, etc.
If that doesn't work I'm boned here. Trolling daily for used 4800/80 to bring in for a new head but does anyone know where to buy a DX5 head that isn't $900?
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I could be COMPLETELY off here but on my WF1100, I have pulled out the head and was able to pump (technically pull) fluids through with a syringe.
Ross Harding and inkjetcarts.us has a video on how this is done.
Again, I have no idea if that is possible are smart for a 4800 but it can be done with the lesser machines like an 1100.
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There's a section in one of the maintenance menus (hold three buttons down while turning on) where it will read the current head temp.
I'd go there and then wiggle things while watching for jumps.
I have a few DX5's upstairs I believe, only the leftmost (photo?) black channel works. You can have one if need be.
When installing new heads you have to input the head rank in the firmware, has to do with voltage and the temp
the head should run at.
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There's a section in one of the maintenance menus (hold three buttons down while turning on) where it will read the current head temp.
I'd go there and then wiggle things while watching for jumps.
I have a few DX5's upstairs I believe, only the leftmost (photo?) black channel works. You can have one if need be.
When installing new heads you have to input the head rank in the firmware, has to do with voltage and the temp
the head should run at.
That would be rad, all I need is photo black.
I don't remember doing the rank on the last head install I did for some reason, the field repair manual has instructions but I don't have the software to do it. Can it be done from the maint menu on the unit?
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Nope, you need a special program to do it. I think I have it. I don't think it's critical for what we print though.
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That would make sense. I think I just did a head alignment after swapping.
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Fuzzy prints can be related to the fuzz (dirt) on the print head and other stuff that touches it. Check the wiper blade and flushing section for strands and/or dried ink build up.
Pierre
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printer #2 no errors, but prints "dirty", has trailing dots and "fur" around fine details that don't go away at any rip setting or for any amount of head cleaning. Appears to me like signs of a bad head that I've seen before but I'm confused b/c this 4800 was cherry, bought local and very obviously well maintained so I can't figure what's going on there. Is there some way to literally clean a print head, i.e., not pump massive fluid through but actually clean off the head to remove anything that could be on there?
You might have either nozzles that misfire or the platen gap might be too much or not big enough.
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I just found this site dont know anything about price seem great. http://signprinthead.com (http://signprinthead.com) for print head for 4800 and 4880. Cheap price, I just ordered parts for my 4800 and 4880 from sign-in-china.com ships fast price good. Didn't have to order head.
Shane
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I just found this site dont know anything about price seem great. for print head for 4800 and 4880, I just ordered parts for my 4800 and 4880 from sign-in-china.com ships fast price good.
Shane
Am I missing something? The head is $1k+
Pierre
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Trying to order some supplies from the china site but it's having some kind of server problem. Nice collection of parts at good prices but I agree with Pierre on the printheads they are about at the going rate or higher.
So I pulled our good head from the printer erroring out, installed in the printer with no errors but apparently bad head. Working printer, yay.
What's weird is that, even though it's the exact printhead (and everything else like film, ink, etc. )we used prior, just in a new chassis, the output resolution has dropped.
We use to run AR at 2880x1400 and it was very crisp. Trying to dial either AR or filmmaker back to where we were.
Accurip Black Pearl looks nowhere near as good at our exact settings on Accurip regular, or whatever the prior version is called.
FM at 2880x2880 gets us closest to where we were at prior, cleaner than AR black pearl is now.
Neither RIP is printing films as clean as we had prior though. Very close, and likely good enough, but you can see the difference clearly in the highest detail areas of our test file which is driving me nuts.
It's the same printhead so I'm ruling that out, wondering if maybe the printer chassis is somehow involved? Did run a head alignment. Only thing I can think of is maybe AR was downgraded in terms of it's highest res setting, but that seems weird, the software is absolutely the same, just black, slightly different layout to the GUI. The linearization is still there, not sure why that rumor started....
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I heard something about heads needing to be calibrated.
Pierre
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It's true ,the service recommendation after a head install is:
28.1 Perform Reset When Print Head Change
28.2 Perform the Print Head Slant Adjustment (CR)
28.3 Perform the Print Head Slant Adjustment (PF)
28.4 Perform the Auto Bi-D Adjustment
28.5 Perform the Auto Uni-D Adjustment
I have the adjwiz2 to do this but it won't install/recognize the printer for some reason....