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Computers and Software => Raster and Vector Manipulation Programs, and How to Do Stuff in Them. => Topic started by: studog on August 03, 2015, 07:02:30 PM
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I haven't done art in quite a while and we now have Photoshop CC and I do not see frequency or dot type. Help!!!!
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they do not have it in CC, it was removed after ps7. you need to use an independent program for it like a rip or as i do design in cc and then save and then bring it is ps7 and print. a real pain. there are other work around but none that are simple
if i am wrong please correct me but this is true as far as I know
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You can save the separated file and open it in Illustrator, hit print and select your settings such as dot shape LPI and angle.
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they do not have it in CC, it was removed after ps7. you need to use an independent program for it like a rip or as i do design in cc and then save and then bring it is ps7 and print. a real pain. there are other work around but none that are simple
if i am wrong please correct me but this is true as far as I know
Ditto
Steve
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PS7 really seems to have been the peak for us screen printers.
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Oddly enough, I've never printed from Photoshop, always from Illustrator after saving the file as a DCS. Started with Photoshop 2.0, got a plug in named "Platemaker" I think, which saved the spot channels as an .eps via DCS, so when imported into Illy, the spot colors came in along with angles, dot shape and line count. Now those parameters are set in Illy.
Steve
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This brings me to ask is it really worth the time to upgrade to a new version of PS/Illy if what you have now works just fine. I have two or 3 newer versions of PS/Illy put I still do ton of my work in Illy 10 for vector stuff and PS cs2 for pixel stuff.
d
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The only reason I have CC is that my computer crashed. Otherwise I was completely happy with what I had before.
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If you are trying to print halftones in photoshop you just have to convert to bitmap and during that process you choose frequency shape etc. I do not use a rip and do gradients and blends all the time using this method.
You will need to have your colors sepped and print ready (trapping etc), then grayscale and flatten each color in its own file, then do the conversion. Once converted, switch back to grayscale, select color range, click on the black areas, create new layer, then duplicate into a new file. Do this for each color so you have all your seps in one file. Then duplicate your original sepped layers into this file. Now if you have to make adjustments to particular layers down the road, you just duplicate those into a new file and repeat the process after making your adjustments.
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The old way was a hell of a lot easier.... who wants more progress.