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screen printing => Equipment => Topic started by: cbjamel on June 07, 2015, 03:42:16 PM
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What is the best way on a 97 Gauntlet II 8/10 to level the screen frame holders and the boards together. Trying to do it on Sunday when down and running into problems.
Thanks,
Shane
cbjamel at msn.com
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What is the best way on a 97 Gauntlet II 8/10 to level the screen frame holders and the boards together. Trying to do it on Sunday when down and running into problems.
Thanks,
Shane
cbjamel at msn.com
I am going to assume that all your pallet arms are level from install.
set off contact in correct postion
Also am assuming print heads are level.
Make sure that the pallet height is in the middle of the pallet adjusting bolts.( so that you can go +or-)
Go to head one and put flood bar in and raise to top on cylinders.
put print table In up position, adjust flood bar, and level, so that it skims pallet at back.
manually move from back to front, and adjust pallet so that it skims the same from back to front.(level)
Do the same on each pallet.
Then adjust screen holders front and back (level ) if you use shims. Or put screen in and put a quarter
on each corner of pallet, for of contact reference with mesh.
repeat on each head.
Good Luck!
winston
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Thanks Winston.
Shane
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There are some good youtube.com videos by Robert Barnes pertaining to M&R and setup procedures
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I am trying to re-level the boards and screen holder of my existing press.
I will look at youtube.
Thanks,
Shane
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There are some good youtube.com videos by Robert asdf pertaining to M&R and setup procedures
That's true ...I balked at mentioning his vids out the fear of being ostracized.
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Yeah! I thought it was uncalled for. But I sent the guy an email redirecting him. Please forgive me grand moderators
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I've been trained to vomit at the mere mention of Mr. ASDF, so I do my best to trigger Ye Olde Gag Reflex.
But I've no idea why.....
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There are some good youtube.com videos by Robert asdf pertaining to M&R and setup procedures
Which Robert videos?
Shane
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I just got the email. Thanks I thought that might be him wasn't sure.
Shane
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As long as everyone is clear that those aren't "HIS" techniques but rather a little bit from several other equipment guys that he's put together. Well, I take that back, the shimming of print heads with various household items is his, as well as one of the more absurd methods I won't go into detail about, you'll figure it out. But most press owners shouldn't need to worry about shimming print heads. That's one reason why we have adjustable screen holders, to make up for any slight need for calibration among the print heads, among other reasons but I digress. But to my knowledge, there was only one manufacturer that had any severe issues with print heads being out of an acceptable tolerance level.
It should take a few hours to do this, and I know it took the better part of a day and a half for him to calibrate a few 16 color machines using those techniques he describes in his videos. I've calibrated our press about every way it can be done, and I think the best way is to use a flood bar on a baseline print head (find one that is in between the highest and lowest), then get a baseline pallet the way Winston said making sure you have room to go up and down if you need to. Then bring all your pallets to the baseline pallet's specs, then go through all the print heads to match your pallets.
I can't stress enough how important it is to have pallets within a respectable tolerance. I used to think that tolerance was very tight, but over the years I've relaxed my stance on that opinion and if your pallets are within 1/32" from one another you'll be within an acceptable range to see great setup speeds. I've got our pallets within 1/100" using dial indicators mounted to a flood bar, actually it was tighter than that, and I can say that we haven't seen any loss in setup times now that they've been knocked out to within 1/32" and 1/64" where they are now. A big reason for not needing such a high tolerance is we aren't using 50 newton screens any longer and 25 newton S thread screens are a perfect compromise in our shop since it doesn't rely on an super calibrated press.
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The shimming comes from the red machines, not uncommon to find a 1/4" shim under a head or two but like you said it's from sloppy fabrication of the stack. Also comes into play when they make the stack the wrong height. If heads are shimmed and centered it should only need to be done once unless the machine is moved. Mark the shims and put them back where they came from then all you have to do is center the heads. But there are only a couple of macines that may need it.
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I finally got all done.
Thanks for all the info. I do it once every 5-6 years and forget.
Shane