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General => Industry News/ Announcements/Press Releases/Product Promotion => Topic started by: Rob Coleman on January 15, 2015, 01:46:13 PM
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Yes! The rumors are true! ;D Check it out folks! A fantastic solution for printing on those pesky 100% poly performance wear fabrics!
http://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/90/Introducing-ImageStar-Silicone-Textile-Screen-Ink (http://sourceone.nazdar.com/News/ArtMID/620/ArticleID/90/Introducing-ImageStar-Silicone-Textile-Screen-Ink)
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Pricing?
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Looks like the quarts are about $60 and gallons are around $160
BTW, in initial thread about silicone inks it was said that the shelf life is one year. I printed some shirts last week with the sample from March/April of 2013. No issues as of right now. That is after 2 washes.
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I'd say for most that pushes it into the "can you vs should you" category. I doubt that many will want absorb the cost and passing it on would be difficult.
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I'd say for most that pushes it into the "can you vs should you" category. I doubt that many will want absorb the cost and passing it on would be difficult.
Hey, their low bleed plastisol whites are $115/gallon. What's another $45?? :o
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That $45 buys us 1 gal of our LB plastisol ;)
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One Stroke whites are in the same ballpark. Does anyone know if the clear base or white can be used as a quick flash underbase for plastisol colors.
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The fact you can print on a brand that shal remain nameless reds with no issues is worth it. The stretch factor is incredible when doing spandex and like. You know the customer who insist she's a medium but really an XL who then complains the image cracks after she tried it on.
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That same customer will be the one asking why hers is the only shirt with a stretched image :o
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The fact you can print on a brand that shal remain nameless reds with no issues is worth it. The stretch factor is incredible when doing spandex and like. You know the customer who insist she's a medium but really an XL who then complains the image cracks after she tried it on.
I agree........worth it for some. For others, not so much. I would upcharge significantly.
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Tony- fact is, maybe double cost of a normal BR plastisol designed for 100% poly performance wear fabric. You will use 20-30% less by weight. The print results are outstanding! Certainly not for everyone, but a great product for certain applications. I will be happy to send you a printed shirt to look at. Or even better, some ink. Would absolutely welcome your feedback!
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Rob are most of your clients using this as a one hit white? or are they doing a P/f/P with an underbase?
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Hi Eric. I just emailed you.
I would recommend print-flash-print. You can get extremely good coverage, soft hand, and use less ink this way (really no different than plastisol). The prints we had at the show were fantastic -- for the white: 128-flash-166.
Some folks print one hit dropping the mesh to 110 or so. Stencil thickness is very important - ensure you have a good EOM. Good tension, etc etc etc.
Keep me posted!
Thanks, Rob
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Rob; I feel that many may be unsure about the differences in both product and application over HSA vs Silicone. Why would one choose one over the other? Are there mixing software? May we print wet on wet? Still a little concerned about drying in the screen but you can PM me for address for sample(s)
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Nice to see this product back. I had run samples with it and some very small production a few years back but they pulled the line. Printed great but at the time we were printing on nomex material and it got really interesting haha. 400 micron cap film. THICK deposit but it was easy to print and killer results the client was after. They were starting to get colors out but again they axed it
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Just finished an order of lifeguard shirts with it, love the stuff use all the time on stuff that is difficult to print or if I question how bad it may migrate. My supplier mixes pantone colours when I need it. Up here its the same price as the Wilflex epic performance line so for white on hard stuff I use it plus I like the hand it leaves and prints really easy.
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Rob; I feel that many may be unsure about the differences in both product and application over HSA vs Silicone. Why would one choose one over the other? Are there mixing software? May we print wet on wet? Still a little concerned about drying in the screen but you can PM me for address for sample(s)
Hi Tony. Good questions! A few main differences between HSA (waterbase acrylic) and Silicone. I will try to hit the highlights below. As far as a mixing system - we do have base and pigments, obtained Pantone license, have over 1000 formulas matched. However the database is not in a publishable format - shooting for early Q2. Not certain of the software, but are leaning to our web based ColorStar system that is used for Nazdar inks.
Wet-on-Wet? Similar to what you would expect from HSA inks. Large vector areas will need to be flashed between colors. Smaller, tonal areas can probably be run wet without too much trouble - at least for a color or two. Best practice is to flash, but YMMV!
Primary Differences:
Curing
- HSA inks - 330F for 2 minutes. Must evacuate all the water to fully cure.
- IMS Silicone - 260F for 1 minute. If needed, lower temps/times can be used and allow for post cure (crosslink)
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Bleed/Sublimation Resistance
- HSA - Must use gray or black bleed blocker due to the cure temps.
- IMS Silicone - Cure temperature is well below sublimation points of polyester. This is the primary reason silicone is so good on Polyester. Gray UB is available if needed for extremely problematic or dye sub fabrics.
Drying in Screen
- HSA - Dependent upon climate. Hot/Wet atmosphere is the best; Cold/Dry is the worst. Can dry in screens rapidly when not moving ink (printing). For instance - during set-up; breaks, etc. Airflow across screen (fans, breeze) accelerates the process.
- IMS Silicone - Dependent only upon HEAT. Humidity plays no role on catalyzed product screen open time. Inks are formulated with retardant, so no additional retardant is generally needed under "normal" conditions. When it is 100 plus in Myrtle Beach in the summer - additional retarder may be added if needed. Expect screen open time for 6-8 hours. White will want to dry quickest due to the high solids (TIO2) content. Unused catalyzed product kept refrigerated can get a useful life of weeks (days at room temp of 72f).
I imagine most printers are not using HSA on polyester unless they are printing for a customer that has PVC on their RSL. I know that you use a lot of water base and have really dialed in your processes for this chemistry - most have not. Generally, folks are using plastisol. The advantages of IMS Silicone over plastisol on 100% polyester performance wear are numerous: no worries of bleed; fantastic hand feel; breathable print (silicone is a vapor permeable surface - not a solid sheet like plastisol); unparalleled elasticity and memory. The last part is important. The silicone film will return to its original state; BR plastisols made for elongation, will not have 100% memory after stretched - likely leaving your garment distorted.
Sorry for the novel! :) Hope some of this info is helpful. I will ask Terrie to contact you in the coming weeks.
Best, Rob