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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: tpitman on August 28, 2011, 11:31:15 AM
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In general EasiSolv 701 cleans pretty well, but I've got a few screens that I used with waterbased ink that have quite a bit of "image" in the mesh, plus one screen I used with white ink a few months back that shows the "image" when you coat with new emulsion. The area of the "image" doesn't take the emulsion as readily and leaves it a bit thinner than surrounding areas.
I've got some Franmar gel dehazer, but that isn't cutting it. Any other suggestions?
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Liquid Renuit from
International Coatings CCI (as Squeegee corrected me) is the first effective replacement for the nasty lye based pastes that I found in 20 years!
Good stuff, in fact, so good and easy that I tend to over use it.
I have had techs and reps from other companies tell me that no, they did not have an equivalent product.
However, all of my experience has been with plastisol. I did however recommend this to ebSean, he loves it, and I know that he uses WB often as well.
If all else fails, there's always Autohaze (unless it's been banned!)
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Thanks, Andy.
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If you don't get the stain out in the first reclaim process with the non-caustic cleaners/haze removers, chances are you won't unless you go to a caustic dehazer. CCI makes 2 really good caustic pastes but you need to protect yourself and do a controlled rinse to avoid back-splash.
Yes the autohaze is still available but could you imagine using it on an "S" thread.. yikes! I bet you could watch it eat the yellow out of the thread.
The stains from Plastisol usually happen in the Black, White, and Red screens and believe it or not, it's from friction. To much squeegee pressure at the thread surface that has through heat, leeched into and between the knuckle of the thread where no cleaner is getting unless you're steam cleaning and mesh can't handle that anyway! The knuckle of the thread isn't a print area anyway so you can live with it, just hope it was a cool image beacause you'll be seeing it for quite some time. That left over image is an impression in the screen that may never go away, coat the glisten method and it shouldn't make a difference. If it does get in the way of future stencil, then make a new screen.
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Xenon has a couple. F.S.I.C. is one and Xenzu HGR is a soybean based product.
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Isn't Liquid Renuit as CCI product? Mine is, with that said WB stains are the worst, only the most caustic haze removers have worked for me, but I don't like to keep them in the shop so to a degree (the degree to which liq renuit works) we just live with WB stains.
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Isn't Liquid Renuit as CCI product? Mine is, with that said WB stains are the worst, only the most caustic haze removers have worked for me, but I don't like to keep them in the shop so to a degree (the degree to which liq renuit works) we just live with WB stains.
Good catch!
Not the first time I have screwed up IC, ICC and CCI
I will edit my post so no one makes the mistake if they don't read the whole thread.
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DE-grease DE-haze by Screen Process of Alabama has worked out awesome for us. Half the price of 701 and stronger.
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DE-grease DE-haze by Screen Process of Alabama has worked out awesome for us. Half the price of 701 and stronger.
Me toooo and they deliver... no frieght
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DE-grease DE-haze by Screen Process of Alabama has worked out awesome for us. Half the price of 701 and stronger.
Me toooo and they deliver... no frieght
Oh you stab me in the heart. How is everything going?
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Isn't Liquid Renuit as CCI product? Mine is, with that said WB stains are the worst, only the most caustic haze removers have worked for me, but I don't like to keep them in the shop so to a degree (the degree to which liq renuit works) we just live with WB stains.
Got a quart of the Re-Nuit. Seems more effective than Franmar's haze remover. Got off a little more of some black WB on a screen I'd hit with Franmar that's been sitting around for months.
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I will swear by Renuit till the day i die. Long ago I worked for a supplier and Renuit came out before that it was all caustic hazardous to ship products that cost a fortune just in shipping, since then things have gotten greener but Renuit is still at the top to me.
With renuit you can let dry in screen with no ill effects even go so far as leave it in over night wet it the next day with screen cleaner and blast out works sometimes on tougher stains.
CCI does have some much stronger ghost removers that have to be timed correctly when using or your mesh will melt, as John said always rinse off first before atomizing with the pressure washer.
Also like John said mostly what you see is in the knuckles and have very little bearing on printing plastisol, if you have a loupe and look at the stained area you can actually see ink particles in the knuckles, I guess a really bad stain can effect exposure if it is dense enough never happened to me. A really really bad ghost can actually show up in your print, we had it happen once while printing nylon totes with nylon thin ink on a high mesh count, in the right light you could actually see a slight shadow of the ghost image, crazy and required a new screen.
I will always say best way by far to avoid the worse type of stains is to clean your screens out after using, friction will cause ink to get in the knuckles ofcourse but leaving the ink in the screens for to long will also stain the mesh.
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I don't use any dehazer. Even when I used them I never felt they did the job. My recommendation is get a gallon of ICC GR-70. I used to use screen opener to get out my red, yellow and white stains and now I use GR-70 straight from the gallon. Spray it on both sides rub it in with a screen safe scrub brush and let it sit a minute or two. Then pressure wash out. My screen look brand new when I am done. Not sure if it works on waterbase stuff but for plastisol it is amazing.
(I think they changed the ingredients a little. My last gallon is a little weaker. I hope they go back but it still does the job. ICC DON’T MESS WITH GR-70)
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Oh you stab me in the heart. How is everything going?
Sorry bud, didn't mean to stab you in the heart!!!!!!!! Tanner and Cole Smith are very good friends and have been a huge part of us growing so you understand our relationship with them. Things have been really awesome, hired another full timer so month by month we are growing. Hope all is well for to and thanks again for the educational chat we had, I really do appreciate the knowledge!!!
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i use 701 also but for the REALLY tough stains try icc757. it will burn a hole in the mesh ..i think they still make it on a limited basis.
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We used to use the 701 as well until finding the SPA degrease dehazer, cut the cost in half and had more strength to get anything out from a year old stain to tape gunk. It's worth the try, it's all I will buy for my reclaimers now. Good people too!
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I must be doing something wrong. I per say do not use a dehazing chemical. I use Easyway 201 to remove the ink , from the screen, the remove the stencil, then If I see any haze / image in the screen I spray it with the 201 again wait 12-20 sec. and power wash it away.