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screen printing => Ink and Chemicals => Topic started by: TCT on March 03, 2014, 09:22:57 PM
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What are people using to remove images from WB/DC ink that doesn't come out in initial reclaim? I have a couple stubborn screens!
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What are people using to remove images from WB/DC ink that doesn't come out in initial reclaim? I have a couple stubborn screens!
This:
(http://www.removingsiliconecaulk.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/silicone_caulk_removal_tool.jpg)
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have you tried this? We have had good luck with it. But I have had WB screens that just were no goes.
http://www.ccidom.com/products.php?product=H{47}C%252d100-HAZE-REMOVER# (http://www.ccidom.com/products.php?product=H{47}C%252d100-HAZE-REMOVER#)
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Yeah sometimes with very stubborn wb stains (where the mesh seems "dyed") you need to resort to the really harsh caustic stuff. Which sucks, because it's dangerous stuff that can burn/blind employees or destroy thinner meshes.
If you've used the more lightweight options and the stain is still there, I wouldn't worry about it unless it's affecting exposures or messing with stencil detail. I have several screens that have permanent black image stains. No effect on anything when I burn new stencils with them.
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Agreed, if you are going to use this stuff you need to wear full protective gear. Full face mask & some rain gear with some good rubber gloves. ( think Walter White ) :)
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If it does not affect our prints, we don't do anything. If it does, we change the mesh.
All my fingers are wrecked because I use to use caustic that comes in pebble forms (industry standard here). I ignored the itchiness and it started to eat into my finger tips.
Another thing about concentrated caustic is, it corrodes Aluminium. I had half a kilogram of caustic and the pebbles were stuck together like ice. So I dropped it into a bucket of water, it started bubbling and the water got hot. I stirred it with an Aluminium rod and within second it turned black and the submerged rod was all dissolved.
IT IS NOT WORTH THE HASSLE, YOUR HEALTH IS NOT WORTH SEVERAL DOLLARS (after chemical, and time, you might have just saved several dollars).
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The murakami 700 haze remover is magic, but you need gloves and a faceshield to be safe.
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WOW! And this is the ink the customers seem to think is "environmentally friendly" ink!! As usual, the customers know best:D
Thanks guys I didn't think it would a big issue leaving the "stain" on some of them. Kind of a morale sucker punch though!
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CCI GR-70 full strength gets all my WB stains out. Only ink that is a pain is CCI spot black. That one is hard. Got all the black out but there is still ghosting.
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It seems like red is a bad one for us. We put in damn near half the day Friday doing some HUGE front prints for some proofs. Was a huge nightmare, now that image is burned into the screen forever to remind us!!! :'(
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I used to use screen opener. GR-70 does as good if not better. Never have red stains. Plastisol stains all come out. Spot black is the only one in years. Just got the spot black last week.
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Xenon F.S.I.C. or Inkwreck
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The best way to be 'environmental' and remove those stubborn waterbase pigments trapped in the knuckles of the mesh is to use a 3000 psi washer with hot water.
Don't have that.. then a home depot special and a bucket of lye are in your future.
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Xenon F.S.I.C. or Inkwreck
Also not trying to be a jerk, but do you at least have a catalog?
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Xenon F.S.I.C. or Inkwreck
Also not trying to be a jerk, but do you at least have a catalog?
Uh no :o :o. Glad to send you some info and pricing. PM me your email.
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We use Franmar D-haze as part of every screens reclaim cycle. It's pretty mild and won't wipe out all staining but, used every cycle, does well enough for us. The rest we've found to be too harsh.
Hot water is a way bigger deal with WB for general cleanup too, especially HSA and I just ran us hot at the new space (filtered at the booth area) for this reason. We've always just had cold.
John a 3k psi hot water pressure washer would be freaking awesome, I might just look into that.
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We use Franmar D-haze as part of every screens reclaim cycle. It's pretty mild and won't wipe out all staining but, used every cycle, does well enough for us. The rest we've found to be too harsh.
Hot water is a way bigger deal with WB for general cleanup too, especially HSA and I just ran us hot at the new space (filtered at the booth area) for this reason. We've always just had cold.
John a 3k psi hot water pressure washer would be freaking awesome, I might just look into that.
Something like this. I ran one of this guy's ancestors when I did screens at Andy's T-Shirts all day long.
http://urlwww--mitm--com.reachlocal.net/products/pressure-washers/hse-series/HSE-3004-0M10/291/ (http://urlwww--mitm--com.reachlocal.net/products/pressure-washers/hse-series/HSE-3004-0M10/291/)
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John a 3k psi hot water pressure washer would be freaking awesome, I might just look into that.
I'm going to take advantage of the 12 months of sunshine we get and work on installing a solar water system on the roof for the sole purpose of getting warm water into the screen area. I can simply run a few hundred feet of coiled pex on the roof painted black and i've got plenty of hot water.
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John a 3k psi hot water pressure washer would be freaking awesome, I might just look into that.
I'm going to take advantage of the 12 months of sunshine we get and work on installing a solar water system on the roof for the sole purpose of getting warm water into the screen area. I can simply run a few hundred feet of coiled pex on the roof painted black and i've got plenty of hot water.
Save yourself a step and just buy irrigation pipe/pex. It is already black and a fraction of the price of regular PEX. As long as you are not drinking the water you should be fine.
Oh, and you can take your 12 months of sunshine and shove it! ;D
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1. I used to run the previous washer from the water heater drain valve. It helped a bit, but the Mi T M kicked some serious butt on problem screens!
2. Those 12 months of sunshine are going to cost a lot of us some serious coin as dairy, meat, and produce prices climb due to our drought. (current storm notwithstanding)
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Save yourself a step and just buy irrigation pipe/pex. It is already black and a fraction of the price of regular PEX. As long as you are not drinking the water you should be fine.
PIP as that tubing is called is rated at 130 degrees whereas PEX is rated at 210
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John a 3k psi hot water pressure washer would be freaking awesome, I might just look into that.
I'm going to take advantage of the 12 months of sunshine we get and work on installing a solar water system on the roof for the sole purpose of getting warm water into the screen area. I can simply run a few hundred feet of coiled pex on the roof painted black and i've got plenty of hot water.
Be careful doing that. You need to have a Adjustable thermostatic mixing valve to make sure the water does not come out too hot. You would be amazed at how hot the water can get. Up to 200 degrees is possible.
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I have an old screen that I forgot to clean out, so I went with my scorched earth solvent, pregan c4. It looks like it has loosened it up and I got most of the ink off, I just need to hit it with a pressure washer to see how well it worked. It's a trax screen so no biggie if this doesn't work. C4 isn't quite like haze remover, but it will soften solvent proof emulsion.