TSB
screen printing => Screen Making => Topic started by: Screened Gear on August 05, 2011, 04:19:21 AM
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Ok I bought this thing now how do I use it.
What is the right thickness and what is not?
how do you figure out the percent of EOM?
Is it different on 160 mesh than 230?
Do you guys really use this or is it a play a trick on the new guy thing.
Thanks in advance for the very detailed step by step instructions on how to use this. You really didn't have to spend that much time on it.
Thanks Jon
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measure a section of uncoated mesh. then measure a section of the same coated mesh. That will instantly tell you how much thicker the stencil is than the mesh. then take the difference of the 2 numbers and divide it by the thickness of the uncoated mesh.
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I use ours all the time. I tend to shoot for a 12-50% EOM, all depending on what I want the screen to achieve. Standard 156 mesh being used for plastisol on a regular garment, I'd use a 156 with a 20% eom ratio. A white print on a black shirt, I'd use something that has a thicker stencil, 30% or even more. Those percentages I'm throwing out there equal anywhere from 10 micron stencils on higher mesh counts to 200 micron stencils for lower mesh counts used for special prints.
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I use ours all the time. I tend to shoot for a 12-50% EOM, all depending on what I want the screen to achieve. Standard 156 mesh being used for plastisol on a regular garment, I'd use a 156 with a 20% eom ratio. A white print on a black shirt, I'd use something that has a thicker stencil, 30% or even more. Those percentages I'm throwing out there equal anywhere from 10 micron stencils on higher mesh counts to 200 micron stencils for lower mesh counts used for special prints.
I spent a couple of days scouring the internet for the White papers from the ink and emulsion manufacturer's and could not get a precise answer, but my conclusion was that the sim process should be in 7%-10% range and the spot color work around 20%. There are reasons to adjust these numbers and the best example is the white ink on black that Alan is doing. I have some of his samples and they look great. Since talking to him we started coating our 110's (used for single color white on darks) much thicker and are getting significantly better results than before. Additional contributing factor was the 55 triple duro squeegee in combination with the high EOM stencils.
pierre
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Thanks guys. I look forward to using this thing. It is always nice to be able to measure what you’re doing so you can correct it. Can you guys post what some of your screens are at. Micron thickness for a few mesh counts?
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Alan, you are making some huge stencils. I can't imagine making them that thick.
Pierre, I also love the 55/90/55. I have been using it and getting great results. It has a lot more flex and prints really smooth. I have an idea of why. The MHM squeegee holder holds the squeegee much farther down (leaving less exposed squeegee) then on other autos that I have seen. I am guessing this changes the printing ability of the squeegee.
Ok I measured a few screens. I am getting between 6 and 9 percent EOM. I can't imagine having a 20% EOM for spot color jobs. I guess now that I can measure them I need to try a thicker one and see what it does.
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I have the mesh thickness and my standard stencil thicknesses recorded for all of my standard mesh. I use my numbers when I alter my coats to make an educated guess on exposure time, or when I bring in a new mesh to get closer the first time. It's also very useful in the same regard with a new emulsion because you can deduce exposure times more quickly with stencil measurements.
Alan and Bimm might appreciate that I brought in some PHW red on their recommendations and got some great results, 550 microns on 135/48 mesh less the mesh thickness (~75 microns), so a ~475 micron stencil for an HD job on Monday. I was blown away at how smooth it dries when coating that thick.
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I use ours all the time. I tend to shoot for a 12-50% EOM, all depending on what I want the screen to achieve. Standard 156 mesh being used for plastisol on a regular garment, I'd use a 156 with a 20% eom ratio. A white print on a black shirt, I'd use something that has a thicker stencil, 30% or even more. Those percentages I'm throwing out there equal anywhere from 10 micron stencils on higher mesh counts to 200 micron stencils for lower mesh counts used for special prints.
I spent a couple of days scouring the internet for the White papers from the ink and emulsion manufacturer's and could not get a precise answer, but my conclusion was that the sim process should be in 7%-10% range and the spot color work around 20%. There are reasons to adjust these numbers and the best example is the white ink on black that Alan is doing. I have some of his samples and they look great. Since talking to him we started coating our 110's (used for single color white on darks) much thicker and are getting significantly better results than before. Additional contributing factor was the 55 triple duro squeegee in combination with the high EOM stencils.
pierre
If your looking for EOM specs check this out.
http://www.stretchdevices.com/random-images/Dragon-Specs-07-08.pdf (http://www.stretchdevices.com/random-images/Dragon-Specs-07-08.pdf)
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Alan, you are making some huge stencils. I can't imagine making them that thick.
Pierre, I also love the 55/90/55. I have been using it and getting great results. It has a lot more flex and prints really smooth. I have an idea of why. The MHM squeegee holder holds the squeegee much farther down (leaving less exposed squeegee) then on other autos that I have seen. I am guessing this changes the printing ability of the squeegee.
Ok I measured a few screens. I am getting between 6 and 9 percent EOM. I can't imagine having a 20% EOM for spot color jobs. I guess now that I can measure them I need to try a thicker one and see what it does.
Use the round edge and coat nice and slow. That's how i get the good EOM.
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Where are you guys getting the 55/90/55 squeegees at?
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(http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4759/img1158id.jpg)
(http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3830/img1166s.jpg)
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([url]http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/4759/img1158id.jpg[/url])
([url]http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/3830/img1166s.jpg[/url])
What mess and thickness is this? It look like 160 mess with the thickest pencil I have ever seen.
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It's a 135/48 LX, a thin thread Murakami mesh. I only posted the pic because I was amazed at how thick I could get the stencil without using capillary film.
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How thick is that? 400?
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A bit over 400 but a lot cheaper than cap film.
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Alan, you are making some huge stencils. I can't imagine making them that thick.
Ok I measured a few screens. I am getting between 6 and 9 percent EOM. I can't imagine having a 20% EOM for spot color jobs. I guess now that I can measure them I need to try a thicker one and see what it does.
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by your results. I don't know if you ever have to double stroke anything, but we don't like to do that and a big reason we don't have to is stencil thickness. There are 2 things we try and avoid like the plaque around here, double stroking and pfp'ing underbases. Anything I can do to not have to do those things is what we do. It's another reason why we are still using a good number of lower mesh counts, where the recent trend is 80's, 110's and 137's are almost non-existent in many shops, I'll use the hell out of them. And the more I use the Murakami S thread, the more I love it. I can see our shop using only the newman roller mesh and murakami S threads.
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This is all really good info. I will be trying this out next week or later this week.
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Where are you guys getting the 55/90/55 squeegees at?
Fimor rep, Brigitte posted here contact info a while back. You can email here and get one to try them out. Not sure what kind of a deal do they offer, but it could be it was shipping only. Just do a search for 55/90/55 and make sure you mention the TSB when you email her.
pierre
p.s. here's the thread:
http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php?topic=28.msg1561#msg1561 (http://www.theshirtboard.com/index.php?topic=28.msg1561#msg1561)