Fibrilation and underbases

[Frog]

In order to get the same wash resistances on a colored garment between colors, it maybe best to go ahead and underbase all the colors. Why? Many many years ago I was printing a design for Disney on a red shirt and all the colors washed well but the black Mickey ears would fiberlate after wash. This is partially due to all the other colors having an underbase. after redoing the underbase to include the black Micky ears, problem solved.

Over the years, inks have gotten softer, and deposits have been reduced, and fiibrilation is more apparent (especially with the popular fashion soft ring spuns)
Is fibrilation directly proportional to the total amount of ink on the substrate? If so, is it reduced with an underbase because of specific mat down properties of the underbase, or is it more, merely the p-f-p inherent with underbases?

btw, glad to see you posting!

[garykfnk]

I don't think its the matt down properties of the underbase. In the example that I showed, it was an issue of the detail that was also reguired. Solid black on the ears but also shadow halftones so for the black it wasn't just a case of using a lower mesh or thicker deposit. The white underbase just separated the fibers from the black. By the way, before underprinting the black you could see the sea of red fibers poking through the ears after wash, we tried using catalyst's and thickeners and you just cant replace P/F/P.

[ZooCity]

I think matt-down is key when avoiding fibrilation. 

[tonypep]

I think matt-down is key when avoiding fibrilation.

I agree.........a reasonably tensioned screen, good choice of ink, squeegee variables all of course play a role in achieving this. Of course when not underbasing this can be challenging. There are always trade offs. A little tired right now to go into detail. But lastly high sigles fine gauge cotton will exhibit less fibrilation.

[Colin]

To put it in a nut shell.

1)  Shirt weight and weave plays the number one reason why you will see fibrillation.

2) The deposit of ink needs to cover/bridge the shirt fibers to successfully lock them down.  You will not accomplish this with wet-on-wet print printing.  The ink needs to be either underbased (white ink, clear ink, or other of choice) or have each color flashed to succeed in locking the shirt fibers.

To explain it any further would turn it into a full page article

[prozyan]

To explain it any further would turn it into a full page article

That wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing   

[dsh]

I'll read it.  Doing what you recommend and making it happen is another thing.

[Colin]

To explain it any further would turn it into a full page article

That wouldn't necessarily be a bad thing   

If Tony or another doesn't beat me to it, I'll write one.  I just got back from a family vacation today and I'm more than a little beat

I'll read it.  Doing what you recommend and making it happen is another thing.

Agreed since some of the best ways to seal the shirt fibers (for multicolor designes) are really only doable if you have 3-4 heads free.....