help choosing a mixing system

[mimosatexas]

Yup, with a modified cameo press.

So I picked up a cameo 24 for 200 bucks in perfect working condition and really prefer hand printing flat stock still, but the idea of using it for pumping out one color prints is really appealing.  Do you have any photos/videos/diagrams/general thoughts/helpful hints/etc related to this   I would convert mine to a one color auto for things like tags and sleeves in a freaking second.

[Gilligan]

Yup, with a modified cameo press.

So I picked up a cameo 24 for 200 bucks in perfect working condition and really prefer hand printing flat stock still, but the idea of using it for pumping out one color prints is really appealing.  Do you have any photos/videos/diagrams/general thoughts/helpful hints/etc related to this   I would convert mine to a one color auto for things like tags and sleeves in a freaking second.

If not I'd gladly let you out of that investment at NO loss to you.

[mimosatexas]

o hell no

I think it is literally an original model.  The housing for the vacuum pump is literally made out of wood, but is painted stock color and looks like it really was originally made of wood (lol).  The guy selling it was advertising selling his screens (26x33 and 12 of them for 100 bucks, also in perfect condition) and I saw the cameo in the background of the craigslist image and asked about it.  He was like, o yea i should sell that too, how about 200 bucks?  I of course jumped on it.  He through in a manual screen stretcher and some seriously antique wall mounted vacuum screen exposure units and a nuarc lamp and the oil vacuum pump etc.  The stuff is all ancient and I wouldnt even think about turning on the lamp or the pump, but I plan on having them on display eventually in an office or something.

The cameo is incredibly clean and has serviced and oiled etc.  No clue why he sold it for so little.  He basically said his wife would be happy he got rid of it (lol).

I just want to put it to use and it isnt really useful for most of my flat stock work since the print area is 24x14.

[Inkworks]

Those Cameos are workhorses! we put 2 of the bigger ones through enough cycles to literally wear out the vacuum tables (not damage, just wear out) then replaced the tables and kept on printing, and this was all very high end Membrane switch and nameplate stuff. I'd love to see how you retrofitted yours to be able to PFP on one!

[mimosatexas]

Mine actually came with the original manual and there are some diagrams showing it printing on boxes and stuff that are already put together (who knows...), but the idea of making a shirt platen that works would be awesome.  Maybe you could have like two platens on a rail and a flash on each side and print while one is flashing or something, or have a rotating four station thing...hmmmm ideas flowing.

[Inkworks]

As to the original topic, QCM makes awesome WOW inks and bases, but since Rutland bought them they've discontinued several colors and inks, including our #1 ink, WOW white. That doesn't make me confident in bringing in more of they're stuff or their mixing system as the future of the line seems uncertain, and maybe even redundant to the Rutland inks.

I used Wilflex PC's at a previous shop and their stuff was top notch, it just isn't as readily available in a hurry where I am. I think I can get by with a WOW base and a good Poly base. What two bases would you recommend?

[TCT]

We started using the Union mixo for our mixing recently. I am "ok" with it, I keep thinking I am missing something not having a base to mix with like we use for WB/DC inks. I kinda wish we could have it more like WB inks where the pigments are more liquid. It would make mixing smaller amounts much easier. All the formulas seem like they use SO much white.
Do other companies out there that you guys know about or use have more liquid in terms of being thinner pigments?

[Shanarchy]

The Wilflex PC is very interesting, but I am a little nervous that if I don't mix it correctly it may not cure. This is why I was a little more partial to the PC equalizer. I think it works the same way, but a bad mix just means your color is off.

How forgiving is the PC epic?

And has anyone used the PC equalizer?

So the worry with QCM isn't that it's a bad system, but that Rutland is/may be discontinuing parts of it?

Any one have any idea how they price out to each other for replacement of colors by the gallon? Are they all pretty close in price?

[Rockers]

How would you not mix it correctly?
Just wondering?
It`s os dead easy to use with their software and a good digital scale for $200.

[Shanarchy]

How would you not mix it correctly?
Just wondering?
It`s os dead easy to use with their software and a good digital scale for $200.

I'm not sure. I guess I'm just afraid that I'd find out later that I added a hair too little or too much of a component. I'm not quite an idiot, but I do appreciate a good idiot proof system!

[Rockers]

How would you not mix it correctly?
Just wondering?
It`s os dead easy to use with their software and a good digital scale for $200.

I'm not sure. I guess I'm just afraid that I'd find out later that I added a hair too little or too much of a component. I'm not quite an idiot, but I do appreciate a good idiot proof system!

Let me say it that way it get`s really simple once you purchased the Sartorius 7501 scale or the 7500. With that scale hooked up to your laptop and the Wilflex software you can recalculate the formula if you added too much of a pigment or base etc. But I did not have the need to buy that scale. I can really recommend that Wilflex PC system. The inks print so well. Get the starter kit and see how you get on with it. Just make sure you get a good scale which are widely available.

[StuJohnston]

I guess I'll have to make a thread about the cameo. It's probably a lot simpler than you think. Mimosa, I think I may have the same model. Do the squeegee and floodbar connect to the same piece?

Anyhow, the big thing for me about the pc system are the bases. I love the fact that I use the same pigments to make basically whatever kind of ink I want. With the mixo, I can do quite a bit with modifiers and even use it for plasticharge if I up for a little self abuse, but it is still roughly a set of RFU inks. I think the value of the union inks is that they have pretty decent availability and the cost of entry is really low. Hell, dick blick sells union!

Shanarchy, there is not much pigment in most colors, the pic that I showed has a whopping 13.1% pigment load, so you would have to really mess something up to ruin the cure.

[Rockers]

And when printing on white and other very light colored garments only you can even lower the pigment count. Just make sure you mark that on your container? Oh and you can print out "beautiful" labels for your ink pots that show the exact formula etc. I`m not serious about "beautiful" though. But it`s a neat software, the whole pc system is very neat.

[Shanarchy]

What is recommended as a good digital scale. I know some of the scales can cost some serious coin.

[Rockers]

We bought the Citizen CT-1202, just enough for mixing quarter gallons. If you ever need to mix gallons you might want to go for something else. and of course if your budget allows go for the Sartorius 7500 0r 7501. Make sure the scales can read at least 0.1g or even better 0.01g which our Citizen scale does by the way. It did cost me only $230 as far as I can remember. Wilflex recommends the Sartorius 1500 or 1501 for quarter gallons. It`s fairly cheap too. I would not shy away from the Wilflex system.